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#1
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So, my walls are 101 inches tall, and after I account for 5/8" sheetrock on the ceiling, I still need to cover a height of 8'-4.375" with drywall. That's just over 4" too short.
So, to eliminate this sliver, does this mean I'm going to have to use baseboard and it will be at least 5" tall if I don't want to be cutting nearly 4' off of a 12' piece? What would you do? This is in the garage. Concrete block, 2x6 PT sill then drywall starts: 2x4 bottom plate, 96" stud, 2x4 top plate, 2x4 double top plate, 1/2" spacer then ceiling. Thanks, Jason |
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#2
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Sheetrock is available in 54" width (for doing 9' ceilings).
Find a real drywall supply house, or call a few lumberyards... It's not that hard to find nowadays, as 9' ceilings have gotten pretty common in new construction.
__________________
Master Plumber Mark: there is nothing better than the manly smell of WD 40 in the air while banging away on brass with a chisel and hammer... it smells like......victory...... do not hit your thumb... __________________ Just so everyone's clear: I'm the POODLE in the picture ("french", get it?) The hot woman is my wife. |
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#3
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You do NOT want to install it vertical. I also think you do not want to leave a 4" bare space behind any baseboard.
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#4
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If you intend to install it vertically, use 10' sheets. But I woudl install it horizontally, but leave the 4" space between the top and bottom sheets. Put the "sliver between them, and then make one wide taped joint.
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#5
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The paper exterior on drywall has grain to it...it is stronger along the length, so that should bridge the bigger gaps - it should run across the studs. Try tearing a page of newspaper...tear one direction, and it goes straight, tear the other (at 90-degrees), and you can't get a clean straight tear line. That's a good example of grain in paper.
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Jim DeBruycker Important note - I'm not a pro FWIW - Don't try to buy a phone from Nokia on-line |
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#6
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I'd install a couple of inches below where you want it now and install a suspended ceiling to cover the gap at the top of the walls.
Metal frame with fiber glass tiles to resist any moisture that may enter from your dodgy craftmanship on this project. Is that 2x4 still holding the wall up?
__________________
The "Made in USA" insignia has always represented quality and craftsmanship to consumers. The last Amercian product I bought was...30 oversized brass switchplates. I'm an alien, I'm a legal alien I'm an Englishman in New York I'm an alien, I'm a legal alien I'm an Englishman in New York Last edited by Ian Gills; 11-05-2009 at 12:38 PM. |
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#7
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Quote:
Quote:
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#8
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Quote:
![]() Quote:
Jason |
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#9
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Just go with a 6 inch baseboard. I've seen bigger.
__________________
The "Made in USA" insignia has always represented quality and craftsmanship to consumers. The last Amercian product I bought was...30 oversized brass switchplates. I'm an alien, I'm a legal alien I'm an Englishman in New York I'm an alien, I'm a legal alien I'm an Englishman in New York |
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#10
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I could, but technically the garage really doesn't need it. To match the house it would have to be 8 to 9". Either way, 70' of trim that isn't needed is extra cost.
It would appear that the bLowes around me doesn't carry 54" ![]() Jason |
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#11
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After all your hard work, you're complaining about the cost of 70 feet of trim.
Compromise and go for the rubber vinyl stuff.
__________________
The "Made in USA" insignia has always represented quality and craftsmanship to consumers. The last Amercian product I bought was...30 oversized brass switchplates. I'm an alien, I'm a legal alien I'm an Englishman in New York I'm an alien, I'm a legal alien I'm an Englishman in New York |
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#12
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Since this is for your garage, do you really want drywall all the way to the floor? I'd be worried it would get damaged at the bottom with the type of stuff you typically store in a garage. My garage has a curb all the way around, but if it didn't I know I would have banged it all up with my tools and the lawnmower, etc. Just some ripped down plywood attached at the bottom would both protect the wall and cover any gap at the floor. No need for trim in a garage.
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I consider myself an accomplished DIY'er. I don't know everything but help where I can. I'm not a pro, but like to think I'm professional. |
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#13
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Quote:
The most important line in my reply: If you have no drywall supply house nearby, or if they won't sell to you (sometimes they're not set up for retail, you need to open a pro account & have a tax number, etc)... you might have to go through a few lumberyards before you find one that stocks it. The phone is your friend, here. You can also try calling a local drywalling company, they might be willing to tell you where they get it, or middleman a purchase from the supply house, for a percentage... times are tough for those guys. Edit: Columbus is a good sized city - it should not be that hard to find: http://maps.google.com/maps?oe=utf-8...ed=0CBIQtQMwAA .
__________________
Master Plumber Mark: there is nothing better than the manly smell of WD 40 in the air while banging away on brass with a chisel and hammer... it smells like......victory...... do not hit your thumb... __________________ Just so everyone's clear: I'm the POODLE in the picture ("french", get it?) The hot woman is my wife. |
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#14
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The ENDS of drywall are not tapered, and a good taper can make them look smooth, otherwise you would have 4' speedbumps going up and down all over the room. Actually, making a 6" or so "speedbump" can appear smoother than a narrower one.
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#15
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I'm about to tape soon. And I have bought all the cheats I can find.
Pronto tape and magic corners!
__________________
The "Made in USA" insignia has always represented quality and craftsmanship to consumers. The last Amercian product I bought was...30 oversized brass switchplates. I'm an alien, I'm a legal alien I'm an Englishman in New York I'm an alien, I'm a legal alien I'm an Englishman in New York |
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#16
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Menard's does. Special order, but my local Mendards can get it. I would assume a Columbus one could, too.
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#17
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Thanks, all. I'm sure I'll find it.
Check this out Ian. I've seen it before, but never used it. http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-...tt-joints.aspx Also, in my install I have 20" of block before the wall starts, so drywall won't be at the floor so low. Thx Jason |
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