zees bathroom remodel

Discussion in 'Remodel Forum & Blog' started by zxed, Dec 7, 2008.

  1. zxed

    zxed New Member

    Messages:
    61
    Location:
    California
    Hello All
    a quick outline
    1. demoed my master bathroom (2d floor) to the studs, removed a wall between a walk in closet and masterbath to make a bigger bathroom.
    2. there was a tub at the wall that i removed
    3. i am puting in a standing shower using kohler valves, trims and shower components.
    4. i am closing on of the doors to the room and putting a double vanity there
    5. i am rotating the toilet 90 degrees., this also means that i would need to shift the toilet flange a few inches.

    whats been done and what i have found out
    1. i have 1/2 plumbing
    2. the toilet flange was 13 inches from its current wall., left where it is., i is 17ish inches from the back wall (i have a pic that shows the flange location)
    3. the copper has been complete for the double vanity., still need to do plumbing for the shower area., and move the drain
    4. i want to place a 2nd drain and leave it under the floor, end capped. near that drain i also want to end cap or turn valve a cold/hot line, left in the wall... why? i want the option of being able to put a tub in a year or so from now..

    kohler things i am geting
    3 of these
    kohler water tile
    1 of this
    kohler water tile shower head
    1 of this
    kohler handshower kit

    and these
    thermostatic valve
    control valve, 3 of them

    on the kohler shower book the schema on page 20
    the kohler showebook

    how is in wall plumbing done?
    is it copper pipes sweated with the tees and elbows?
    the elbows that the person doing the in floor pumbing is using is smooth on all sides, no thread... on the kohlers instructions i see them using nipples with tee's and/or elbowes.. i am guessing these are some kind of 1/2 to FIP elbows?

    i know nothing about plumbing., :) but am willing to learn

    and... none of the framing as been done yet for the shower., i do have some diagrams that i can post

    Attached Files:

  2. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    21,802
    Location:
    New England
    It is my understanding that the Kohler watertile fixtures are extrememly critical on the depth in the wall and being exactly plumb...a 1/16" may be enough to make it look funky (by sitting above or below the wall), and out of plumb and square will look funky, too. In other words, they are probably one of the hardest things to install of any of the choices out there. Assuming you are going to tile the walls, they have to be 'just' right. And, once installed, you'll essentially have to tear the shower out to replace them if desired.

    Can't help WRT connection...some fixtures have both threaded connections and will act as a soldered fitting as well.
  3. zxed

    zxed New Member

    Messages:
    61
    Location:
    California
    i too have heard that...
    for the shower walls im installing Kerdi

    since i have to frame and put the walls up., i am thinking of putting up just the shwower side sheetrock., (note i am leaving the other side of the framing open for now) doing the cutouts for the watertile base,. applying kerdi to the sheetrock., laying out the tiles ., adjusting the watertiles from the other side of the wall i left open., once its flush ill strap the plumbing in place., and have everything secured.,

    all the kohler heads have threads on them., i am trying to figure out what i need to start connecting the stuff., dont want to buy things that i dont need.,
  4. zxed

    zxed New Member

    Messages:
    61
    Location:
    California
    the toilet flange issue

    (i also post on johnbridge... )

    so heres the current toilet flange., its 14" from the wall.,

    currently the backside is on the east wall., i want to roate 90 degrees and have the backside on the north wall.

    as is., the flange is 19" from the north wll

    you will also see the stupid ceiling stud in the way if i wanted to move it and have it 14"....

    the toilet i want to buy has a 12" rough in, if i put that without moving the flange., ill have a 6 inche gap after/if i tile the wall.,

    i guess i could look for a toilet with a 10" rough in..... or should i get creative and build a shelf that i can put behind the toilet to stack toilet supplies?

    Attached Files:

  5. get the 10 inch rough

    I would get the 10 inch rough....anything to make it easier...

    that stud will make things a littel difficult to flip that toilet to the back wall..


    but on the bright side....when you flip that toilet to the back wall, you will be able to use that waterline as a toilet paper holder

    (just take the handle off and the rolls spin easier)
  6. zxed

    zxed New Member

    Messages:
    61
    Location:
    California
    haha :) actually that entire wall might be getting ripped out and re-dry walled., or at least the borrom half of it so that i can access the plumbing for the shower more easily.

    so if you see the pic., there are 2 2x8's., one for the floor., one for the ceiling below.,

    the ceiling studs (lower) are hanging to the floor (above)., nails and studs (vertical) to hold it in place/supoprt...

    i was thinking of adding a more vertical studs., so taht the stud thats in the way is supported., and then again on the next floor stud., adding another vertical stud for support and cuttng out the piece in the middle., that will allow me to extend the abs,. L it to the left and up at roughly 14"
  7. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,240
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    toilet

    I may be somewhat confused, such as if the wall behind the toilet is the East wall, the closest wall in the picture should be the South wall. And if the new location is going to be 18" from the wall why would you even consider a 10" toilet? Another thing is that the picture implies that there is a considerable distance between the riser and the joist, so you should be able to have at least the minimum 15" to the center, and the location of the joist should have no bearing on the rough dimension of the new location.
  8. zxed

    zxed New Member

    Messages:
    61
    Location:
    California
    you are correct., my fault :) its the West wall not the east.

    if i leave the plumbing as is., then the toilet flange will be 18" from the north wall, so the toilet itself, if its a 12" will have a gap of 6" from the tank to the wall.

    I need to move the flange "closer" to the north wall., the lower studs (belong to the ceiling below) are in the way.,

    it was suggested on a different board that i may be able to
    "cut the abs near the opening, put on a sleve, extend and add a 90 deg elbow
    roll the elbow towards the wall (will need to be rolled at 45 deg), add pipe + 45 deg elbow., this will place the opening of the 45deg elbow right above the ceiling joist that is in the way., and also move me 4-5 inches closer to the wall., then all i need to add is a pipe + flange...

    so to clarify., the issue is that the flange needs to be moved closer to the north wall., and if its a code standard: away from the west wall., (looking at the pic) i think we are looking at 5 inches left, 5 inches up
  9. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,240
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    flange

    Cut the riser pipe, then install a 3" 1/6 bend on it then a short pipe of the proper length, then another 1/6 bend rolling back vertical. From that you should either be able to install a piece of pipe with a flange on the outside of it, or a spigot flange into the bend's hub. If we were there, we might even come up with one or two other ways to do it, but it depends on the actual physical space available.
  10. zxed

    zxed New Member

    Messages:
    61
    Location:
    California
    shower + toilet plumbing

    thanks for your help everyone., i went and bought the stuff i needed to get the toilet relocated., pulled up the rest of the floor and noticed that i have a bigger issue...

    i have tried to draw it in a x,y,z axis.. (the pipes for both the toilet and shower are physically on the same level even though the pic would show them as higher/lower).

    the sketch at the top is what is there now., i need the shower drain where the red dot is., but then i also need it vented? i could only come up with what i have in the bottom.. where i move the wye further back adding a tee (where one opening is 90 deg going up) before the ptrap and then running 1.5" or 2" (which ever fits between the floor joist and the ceiling joists below that).... connected to the existing venting setup...

    i realise i might not be clear., so i can get some of the actual photos if it will help.

    Attached Files:

  11. zxed

    zxed New Member

    Messages:
    61
    Location:
    California
    bumping my thread., hope to work on it this week
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