Yet one more water treatment recommendation request

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water2wine

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I've attached a recent KAR - 90 water report for the water I would like to treat.

Description of Application:
This well supplies a small winery facility with water usage of 500 gallons per day with very occasional 1,000 gallon days and often no water used for 2 weeks. Iron bacteria is present and it is my main concern. There is also a small amount of iron, manganese and H2S present.

Goals:
1. Keep iron bacteria from sliming up my pipes and causing water to stink.
2. Remove iron
3. Removal of hardness would be nice but not nearly as important as 1 and 2.

Current water distribution system:
There is a 12 gpm submersible pumping from the well directly to a 3,000 gallon storage tank (no pressure tank in this system, just a float switch). Water is pumped to the winery by a 20 gpm submersible located in the storage tank which is powered by a variable speed controller Aquavar Solo 3AS20.

My current water treatment equipment:
H202 proportional Stenner injection panel (flow meter, spin down filter, peristaltic pump and pump controller), 16x65 backwash filter loaded with zeolite controlled by Fleck 7000SXT. Originally I used the H202 the backwash filter loaded with 4 cuft of catalytic carbon. The water quality was pretty good at first but eventually the pipes loaded up with bacteria and began to create H2S issues. Iron dropped from 0.20 ppm to 0.02 ppm while I was using the h202/catalytic carbon treatment.

I can't used chlorine to fix the iron bacteria problem unless there is a reliable and economical way to reduce free chlorine down to 0.00 ppb since i'm using this water in a winery (chlorine can cause serious contamination issues when mixed with a certain molds which can create a compound called Trichloroanisole)

The local water treatment company recommends that I install:
a pressure tank on the well pump--> Next Sand backwash filter (with a No Hard Water Bypass controller)---> a twin alternating, non electric kinetco water softener ---> a solenoid valve which controls the inflow of water to the storage tank(which is controlled by a float switch). They also recommend installing a UV system between the storage tank and winery. $7k installed (includes backwash, softener and UV only)

My latest best idea on system design:
-10" (1.5cuft) Katalox light backwash filter with No Hard Water Bypass (what would you recommend for a valve?) with service water flow restricted to 5gpm and backwash restricted to 6 gpm
-24,000 grain dual softener with Fleck 9100 SXT flow restricted to 5 gpm
-solenoid valve controlled by float switch in the 3k gal storage tank
-no UV at first and see if I have bacterial issues without the iron

Can you offer any additions or modifications?
Would you recommend standard 8% softener media resin?

Thank you.
 

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  • Nelson, C.pdf
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Bannerman

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What is the dosage rate for the H2O2?
At what location within the distribution system is the H2O2 currently injected?
 

ditttohead

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I would recommend updating your current system and carefully adjusting it. This may be a bit complex and tedious for a forum setting of this type. Please feel free to call me so I can go through the settings of your Stenner, 7000 etc...
You have some excellent equipment that is probably in good condition, a little tweaking and you might be ok.
 

water2wine

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What is the dosage rate for the H2O2?
At what location within the distribution system is the H2O2 currently injected?

Bannerman, I really appreciate the follow up.

I just kicked the H2O2 system back on since my ozone circulation pump died and I'm waiting for parts (the ozone is a whole different can of worms and I described some of my experimentation below). I'm feeding H2O2 just before water enters the 3,000 gal tank in the neighborhood of 100ppm. The residual peroxide in the winery is approx 3ppm. Currently there is a ton of slime and growth in the storage tank that is binding up massive amounts of the H2O2. I don't want to empty it and clean it up until I have a new water treatment solution that is going to work this time!!

Previously when I didn't have the 3,000 gal storage tank, the H2O2 was injected 2 feet before the 16x65 backwash filter that was loaded with catalytic carbon. This system honestly worked pretty well. After the first year the system began to blow through iron and after talking to tech support they figured out that the vendor forgot to remove the flow restrictor from the 7000 sxt when they shipped it to me). After that point circa 2014 I was intermittently fighting stinky water iron blowing through. I'm curious if the catalytic carbon lost some efficacy after being slimed up the first year.

More info on the ozone that I've tried:
First I tried a triple O ozone system which was not sufficient for the amount of bacteria that I have. Then I purchased an 7 gram per hour Corona Discharge Ozone generator from A2Z ozone. This is relatively cheap equipment I wanted to test out without having to invest a ton into ozone. I put the unit on 24 hour circulation pump that injected the ozone through a Mazzei venturi injector just before the 3,000 gal tank. This solution works reasonable well, but my residual ozone was not quite high enough. Since I wasn't using an oxygen concentrator to feed high purity O2 to the O3 generator the output is more like 0.7 gph which was not high enough to keep the tank at a high level of redox. I this system could work with an investment into higher quality equipment but I don't like the idea of running a pump and ozone generator 24/7. I would be changing out expensive equipment on a regular basis if I stuck with that plan.

There has GOT to be a more common and simple solution to my bacteria/iron/manganese issue!!
 

water2wine

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I would recommend updating your current system and carefully adjusting it. This may be a bit complex and tedious for a forum setting of this type. Please feel free to call me so I can go through the settings of your Stenner, 7000 etc...
You have some excellent equipment that is probably in good condition, a little tweaking and you might be ok.

dittohead, thanks for weighing in on my problem. FYI I have spent hours and hours trying to get the H2O2 dialed in with catalytic carbon but haven't really spent much time trying to get the zeolite to work with the peroxide. My experience is that the H2O2 does not effectively kill the bacteria...but maybe that isn't so important and iron removal is the key.

I started out with 7% H2O2, moved up to 35% when I noticed the 7% wasn't working properly (probably because the filter was sludged up) and since more is ALWAYS better I moved up to 50% H2O2 over the last few years.

I'll be in touch.
 

ditttohead

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You have some serious issues that need to be addressed. I design ultra-pure USP27 systems and a lot of that knowledge can be incorporated into your system design. One of the problems with the application is you are trying to catch up to a problem that is already too far gone. We need to go through some minor system redesigns and I am sure we can get you going fairly easily. This is a bit more complex than the common problem but one that I believe can be solved reasonably well.
 
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