Would a stripped seat in a tub faucet cause a leak?

[a4andrew]

Upon replacing the tub faucet (using a tub faucet rebuild kit - knobs, stems, etc), I stripped the hot water's seat. It came out, but upon putting it back in, it just keeps on turning, thus I conclude it is stripped. Would this cause leaking (warm water is coming out)? (It had held without leaking for about a month as when I put the seat back in, it was barely tight, but now it is very loose and now I have a lot of leaking without any other reason than that).

If it is stripped, am I left with having to replace the pipe fittings? Any other solution(s)? suggestions?
After double checking the seat, it looks a little stripped, but I can't be absolutely sure one way or another. I'll look for a replacement seat in the meantime.

 

[Terry]

If you can get a new seat installed you might get lucky.
The seat should be installed using pipe dope and needs to maintain a seal with the body of the faucet. If it's loose, water will get by it.

The do make remodel plates if you need to replace the entire faucet.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[a4andrew]

Thanks for the response. I'll try to replace the seat.

(Fortunately I have a back access panel, so a remodel plate shouldn't be necessary).

 

[a4andrew]

I tried replacing the seat and used a good amount of tape (instead of pipe dope) because it is thicker. The new one did fit snugger, but it also kept on spinning. When I turned the water back on, it did leak - pretty much just as much as when I had the old seat in there.
Does it sound like I have to replace the pipe fitting?

 

[Terry]

Well at least you have access. You need a new valve now.
You wanted a new one anyway though, right?

 

[a4andrew]

So you think I need a new valve and not a pipe fitting (as the seat is stripped)?

BTW, I initially thought it was the diverter (hot and cold knobs on either side, with the diverter in the middle), but it's behavior is expected and consistent - meaning, the when the shower is turned on, all the water flows to the shower, when off, it will all flow to the spout. I have read that if it drips through the spout while the shower is on, it is a diverter problem - of which I had discovered and fixed myself - I adjusted the rubber washers to fix it. Could my present problem be a diverter problem somehow?

 

[a4andrew]

ah...just researched and found that what I was calling a pipe fitting is actually a valve.

 

[DonL]

You may need to call a real plumber.

If you get lucky they will take it up in trade.

Good luck on your project.

 

[a4andrew]

a plumber quoted me $535 to replace the valve and install a 3 handle faucet set. I was floored. I can only say it encouraged me to test my hand at sweating copper pipes. Fortunately I have two good resources as well as youtube. I'll make sure I practice before going "live".

Besides that, since it was determined that the shower valve is needing to be replaced, I decided to superglue in the seat. Though it wasn't completely dry and I don't think it ever did, it has slowed the stream to a very tolerable drip. What I should have done when I set the superglue, was to let out all of the water so that no more dripping would have come out of that warm water pipe (open a valve from the lower part of the house). Ah well.... lesson learned. I may actually redo the superglue (epoxy is an option too), but I'll wait until it gets worse. But hopefully I'll be set to go with the solder before then.

 

[Reach4]

I would have chosen 5 minute epoxy over superglue.

The yellow teflon tape sold for gas use is OK for plumbing, and it is thicker. You could have used tape and pipe dope both.