Wiring a double oven.

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Pete C

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I am getting ready to put in a new kitchen. Going from a standard stove to separate cooktop and double oven. Cooktop will be about where the stove was, so I will use that outlet to supply the cooktop. My question is, can I tap into that to power the double oven, or will I need a separate run from the panel to power it on its own breaker?
 

Jadnashua

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It depends entirely on the amount of power required whether there's enough available at the original stove's supply. For convenience, it is usually easier to have those lines separate so that you can work on them, and, it might be required, if it is called out in the installation manual, even if there is enough power available in the original location. There are two things involved here: not overloading the supply line, and following the manufacturer's installation instructions.
 

Pete C

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Best practice would be to run a new feed to it. WHY would they ask about a "separate feed to power it", if it were a gas over?

I thought the same thing originally, but most modern gas ovens do have a 110 feed to power electronics.

To answer the question, it's all electric. One of the ovens is convection, if that matters. I guess I will just run a separate run with dedicated breaker. Not a whole lot of difference in cost or amount of work. Got plenty of room left on the 200A panel.

Thanks for your responses.
 

DonL

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I thought the same thing originally, but most modern gas ovens do have a 110 feed to power electronics.

To answer the question, it's all electric. One of the ovens is convection, if that matters. I guess I will just run a separate run with dedicated breaker. Not a whole lot of difference in cost or amount of work. Got plenty of room left on the 200A panel.

Thanks for your responses.

That would be the way to do it right.

It is not cool when the breaker trips while making Thanksgiving dinner.:eek:
 

Pete C

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Yeah, and we will be having thanksgiving to show off the new kitchen. And I am certain that will mean both ovens and all 4 burners going at once. A tripping breaker would suck.
 

Pete C

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Looked up the double oven requirements. 8 gauge is sufficient, so I bought a roll of 8-3. Now I have a question about connecting the cooktop. My plan was to use the existing stove feed. This is very heavy gauge, maybe 4? The existing breaker that it is connected to is 60A. Can I use this, or is it overfused for this application? And what is the correct way to connect the large gauge wires to the smaller cooktop wires? Do they make wirenuts that big? Should I just break down and buy a roll of 8-2 or whatever it is I need to supply it?
 

Jadnashua

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The breaker is there to protect the wiring, not necessarily the device(s) connected to it, so for 8g wire, I think your maximum breaker size would be 45A, if I read things right.
 

Jadnashua

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The breaker is there to protect the wiring, not necessarily the device(s) connected to it, so for 8g wire, I think your maximum breaker size would be 45A, if I read things right.
 

ActionDave

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Looked up the double oven requirements. 8 gauge is sufficient, so I bought a roll of 8-3. Now I have a question about connecting the cooktop. My plan was to use the existing stove feed. This is very heavy gauge, maybe 4? The existing breaker that it is connected to is 60A. Can I use this, or is it overfused for this application? And what is the correct way to connect the large gauge wires to the smaller cooktop wires? Do they make wirenuts that big? Should I just break down and buy a roll of 8-2 or whatever it is I need to supply it?
I would be surprised if it was #4 unless it's aluminium. If it is copper it's most likely #6. They make big blue wire nuts to connect wire that size. The cook top should have a breaker size for you in the manual.
 

Pete C

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Have the box mounted in the wall for the cooktop. Just one problem. I needed a box with a 1 " knockout. The strain relief for the cooktop needs a 1/2" knockout. The only 1/2 knockout is in the back of the box. All the side knockouts are 1 or 3/4. Can I use washers to make a 3/4 inch a 1/2?
 

ActionDave

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Have the box mounted in the wall for the cooktop. Just one problem. I needed a box with a 1 " knockout. The strain relief for the cooktop needs a 1/2" knockout. The only 1/2 knockout is in the back of the box. All the side knockouts are 1 or 3/4. Can I use washers to make a 3/4 inch a 1/2?
You can buy reducing washers. I think big orange has them.
 
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