Winterizing Water Softener

Discussion in 'Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and r' started by chuck b, Sep 9, 2011.

  1. chuck b

    chuck b sea-bee

    Messages:
    82
    Location:
    levering, michigan
    I will shut off the heat to my seasonal cottage water system, draining the sediment filter and water heater along with all the lines. But what do I do about the newly installed water softener re: preventing freezing?

    I was told by one plumber to use an external pump to inject RV Anti-Freeze in to the softener and then run it all out in the Spring. I am wondering how effective this would be, and if the poisonous? nature of the RV Anti-Freeze could be neutralized by flushing the system thoroughly in the spring with fresh well water. Another suggested installing a spigot in the lower part of the tank (drilling in to it). Good idea?

    Any experience with this? Any other suggestions? Thanks.
  2. mialynette2003

    mialynette2003 Member

    Messages:
    749
    Location:
    Ocala, Florida
    I wouldn't drill into the tank and put a spigot. I think you should go with the RV anti freeze.
  3. Akpsdvan

    Akpsdvan In the Trades

    Messages:
    1,496
    Location:
    Alaska
    If you use the RV anti freeze in the softener you will be replacing the resin, it is a one way trip for the resin..........

    I had that question awhile back and checked with the makers of the resin and they all said NO NO NO......

    Have a compressor? If you do you can un hook the bypass from the softener and use the air like water.. push air through at the in of the softener and water will come out the out. Do it the first time til there is no water but air and then wait 5 minutes and repeat, most of the time it is a 3-4 repeats or until there is only air coming out.

    Again use the RV anti freeze and replace the media next year.
  4. Flipperman2a2w

    Flipperman2a2w New Member

    Messages:
    33
    Location:
    North Carolina
    I would definitely not try to install a drain in the resin tank. I purchased tanks that were custom made to allow draining from the bottom, and they were nothing but trouble. After I filled them with media, they leaked. Once they were full of media and water, it was practically impossible to access the bib underneath to attempt to fix the leak. I had a mess in my garage and ended up purchasing regular tanks. I'm still trying to figure out the best way to winterize my system, and I'm thinking about purchasing an air compressor to blow them out.
  5. Akpsdvan

    Akpsdvan In the Trades

    Messages:
    1,496
    Location:
    Alaska
    If you are using a fleck valve either the 5600 or 2510 a plastic yoke with a snifter valve on one side and a boiler drain on the other works will good....
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