Cpeters
In the Trades
I like hot water heat, otherwise I'd put in electric baseboard. Just wondering if there is an advantage to one over the other when blowing out the lines and draining, if I decide to leave for the winter?
Winterizing hot water boiler vs. condensing boiler
- Thread starter Cpeters
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Leon82
Member
Why not add glycol to the system. I believe you ordered a giant boiler so the small reduction in heat transfer properties will not matter
Cpeters
In the Trades
I'm talking about a Weil Mclain cga2.5 or smallest eco. This is for a small garage apt. 480 SF upstairs and 480 SF in garage underneath.
2 zones, 40 feet Baseboard up and a fan blower coil in the garage. Thinking of blowing system out yearly if I head to warmer weather in
Dec to April. I Plumbed all the fixture to drain in winter, I blow out the sprinkler, so taking an extra 15 minutes to drain and blow out the
system isn't much work. My concern was which system can handle repeated draining better, I'm leaning toward the cheaper, by $1,000,
cast iron.
2 zones, 40 feet Baseboard up and a fan blower coil in the garage. Thinking of blowing system out yearly if I head to warmer weather in
Dec to April. I Plumbed all the fixture to drain in winter, I blow out the sprinkler, so taking an extra 15 minutes to drain and blow out the
system isn't much work. My concern was which system can handle repeated draining better, I'm leaning toward the cheaper, by $1,000,
cast iron.
Leon82
Member
Letting all that air in will probably accelerate rust .
A modcon will be stainless and you can install it so the pumps are only iron.
Also a modcon like the knight boiler has freeze protection so it will run the pumps and heat the water when it reaches 45 degree s.
A modcon will be stainless and you can install it so the pumps are only iron.
Also a modcon like the knight boiler has freeze protection so it will run the pumps and heat the water when it reaches 45 degree s.
It's silly to install a ~50,000 BTU/hr boiler to serve a ~10,000 BTU/hr load (and that's if you're there in the winter, which apparently isn't the plan?). This one you can do with a hot water heater (isolate the heating side with a plate type heat exchanger), or a 3/4 ton cold climate mini-split heat pump (and have high efficiency summertime air conditioning too.) With the water heater approach you can leave the water heater on and pay the $10/month or whatever the gas to cover it's standby loss would be in a cold apartment, and blow the heating loop side dry before leaving. As long as you keep the HX and pump on the potable side close to the water heater and insulate the lines, there is no freeze-up risk in any NJ location (maybe in Fairbanks AK there might be.)
