Window replacement plus house settling

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LarryFromMissouri

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I would like to replace our windows but our almost 50-year-old home has settled and the sills are settled in backwards as well, as you can see in the picture. I don't want to put replacement windows on this old window framing, and since it is brick exterior, I am guessing I'll just rebuild everything from the inside??? Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Larry
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Smooky

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What is the problem with what you have? Are the window frames rotten? Is the inside damaged? Are they drafty? Is it the outside casing? Replacing the brick mold is easy if you have some carpenter skills. Replacing the sill is more challenging but it is not that bad. You may only need to replace the nosing. The nail heads in the nosing on yours makes me think that it is a two piece sill.....There are company's that take the window out with out disturbing the inside molding and replace the window. If you buy new windows and replace everything it is expensive $350-$800+ per window. After going out and pricing new windows, I decided to rebuild mine. ... If yours are not rotten you might be able to remove the old caulk, scrape off the old paint. Then re-caulk, prime and paint. Anything that you replace prime it before you nail it in place and keep everything painted in the future. Use good quality material so you don't have to redo it again anytime soon.
 

LarryFromMissouri

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Hello Smooky .... I should have been more specific .... the sills are sunk in backwards .... as if the whole window unit has sunk. Also, I'm going to replace the windows, but the ones I've seen replaced utilize the current exterior window framing, but mine is obviously not in good shape and I want to replace it all as well, and make it fit better in the brick. Right now there is a 3/4" gap on one side. I've done plenty of carpentry, but never messed with replacing a window/situation like this. Just trying to figure out the process.
 

Dana

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It looks as if there may not have been proper bulk-water flashing installed on the original windows.

Is this a brick veneer, with a structural 2x4 framied wall on the interior, structural concrete masonry unit (CMU) wall with a brick veneer finish (with or without an air gap between the CMU & brick, or is the brick structural (with or without a cavity between wythes)? All of the above were in common use 50 years ago.

It looks like it transitions to a framed wall for the second floor (?)
 

LarryFromMissouri

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Dana ... it's a 2x4 framed wall with brick exterior on first level. I'm going to replace the entire window unit, inside and out. I'll order a new window to fit the RO with room to trim with new vinyl brick mold to seal up against the brick, etc.
Thanks, Larry
 

Cacher_Chick

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A better look at the framing would be in order when determining what if any repairs will need to be made for a new window to be installed.
 

Dana

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Dana ... it's a 2x4 framed wall with brick exterior on first level. I'm going to replace the entire window unit, inside and out. I'll order a new window to fit the RO with room to trim with new vinyl brick mold to seal up against the brick, etc.
Thanks, Larry

Most brick-clad 2x4 framed walls have a wood or fiberboard structural sheathing, and a 1/2 to-2" air gap or cavity between the sheathing and the brick. The cavity should be vented to the exterior both top & bottom, through weep-holes in the mortar every few bricks at the base, and at a minimum comparable slots in the vertical mortar at the top course of brick. That allows the cavity to drain, and convects super-moist air created by sun on rain/dew wetted brick to escape to the outdoors via convection rather than condense/adsorb into the structural wood.

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In a cavity wall, first the rough window opening gets flashed to direct bulk water into the cavity, on the exterior of the asphalted felt/ paper covering the sheathing. If the structural sheathing is asphalted fiberboard (Celotex, etc) it gets flashed to the exterior of the fiberboard. If it's plywood or plank sheathing without any weather resistant barrier such as #15 felt, it needs to be directed to the exterior of the brick, even at the rough opening. This guy has pictures what appears to be a decent job of flashing the rough openings into the cavity on a brick veneer using purpose-made tapes. (You can buy EPDM flashing tape in a few widths from box stores.)

The finish window's bulk water handling features are all designed to drain to the exterior of the brick, not into the cavity.
 
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