whole house water filter

Discussion in 'Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and r' started by billfig, Dec 18, 2012.

  1. billfig

    billfig New Member

    Messages:
    109
    Location:
    upstate NY
    Hi, got a softener and a small 10-12" filter using the carbon cartridges. Sears has a 3' floor job on sale for 200.00 which is carbon too and supposed to last 10 yrs.?? I've had descent luck with their softeners for 25 yrs.
  2. cacher_chick

    cacher_chick Test, Don't Guess!

    Messages:
    3,248
    Location:
    Land of Cheese
    How long the filter works would be entirely dependent on what you are filtering. If there are any solid particles such as sand or precipitated iron, you would be better served by a filter that automatically back-washes.
  3. billfig

    billfig New Member

    Messages:
    109
    Location:
    upstate NY
    Yea I got my small whole house between bladder tank and softener and it does get restricted with like super fine rust-mud stuff? In fact after I drained & flushed tanks and chlorinated well last week my BN filter plugged right up! PITA they usually last a month or so...? I'm thinking with this unit which does clean itself/backflush, it would be cheaper and easier...as long as it does what I expect it to and not be a POS!
  4. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,840
    Location:
    Ontario California
    Not a fan of that unit. Unless you are on an extremely tight budget, I would recommend a 1.5 cu. ft. GAC backwashing system with any Fleck valve over that unit. A decent control valve costs more than that entire unit does. Carbons ability to remove organic chemicals, pesticides etc is based on contact time. A gac cartridge for a house is basically a waste unless you are soley trying to remove Chlorine. It will do that ok, even at higher than ideal flow rates.
  5. Christopher Piper

    Christopher Piper New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Location:
    California
    Separate filters for separate purposes is always going to be better than 'combo' type media. The odds of a combo sediment/carbon filter running out of sediment trap space and carbon sites anywhere near the same time is a crap shoot at best. Much better to run a sediment filter, followed by a carbon, then into the softener. Then, each can be proper for it's particular job. The carbon filter and softener won't get mudded up by sediment, and will last quite a bit longer. If you go with a backwashing sediment filter (sand, media, whatever), you will only ever have to worry about changing out the carbon filter when you start getting breakthrough.
  6. billfig

    billfig New Member

    Messages:
    109
    Location:
    upstate NY
    you guys are right. I am on an extremely tight budget too! I should plumb my small (2x10) whole house after bladder then to this floor job, then into softener..correct? After all that work and expense, I would really hope it all works ok. I did renew my bladder tank and softener lasy year and just cleaned out the hw tank & stuck a spare anode in to replace the "well sacrificed" one.:)
  7. billfig

    billfig New Member

    Messages:
    109
    Location:
    upstate NY
    Well after considering all you guys great input I think I should just wait and pass on this device. After 25 yrs. here I think I finally am realizing a good setup..haha! A metered backflushing sediment only device "which I do need" then "maybe" an iron neutralizer to address that greenish crud that forms on pipes(only up till hotwater tank inlet-after that..seems fine) then maybe a taste filter. seems with all that stuff, I'll be fighting low psi throughout house?
    I saw this on CL..Ionics FA timer-controlled fully automatic fiberglass Water Treatment System. Removes iron, chlorine taste and odor, acid neutralizer, sediment filter. Uses potassium permanganate in small tank. No longer needed as we are now on city water $100.00. but I should prolly stay away from a "do-all system" and who knows how old it is or what it "might" need?

    Attached Files:

  8. Bob999

    Bob999 In the Trades

    Messages:
    448
    Location:
    Pennsylvania
    If the greenish crud forms on the OUTSIDE of copper cold water pipes no water treatment system can change that. Copper oxide is green and condensation forming on cold water pipes will result in some copper oxide on the outside of the pipes.
  9. billfig

    billfig New Member

    Messages:
    109
    Location:
    upstate NY
    Oh good then..:)
  10. carol efaw

    carol efaw New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Location:
    Torrance, CA
    We installed an Aquasana whole house water filtering system. It has several cartridges/filters. The first one between the system and the street is supposed to be replaced maybe twice a year. But we are finding that we are replacing it every month. The white filter is literally dark brown. Was the unit installed incorrectly or should we contact the city water department? Thanks.
  11. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,840
    Location:
    Ontario California
    Are you replacing the filter because it is getting dirty? Filters are supposed to get dirty, this is normal. Torrance and the surrounding areas have a small amount of sediment in the water. Dont replace them because they are dirty, wait until you start to notice a differential across the filter to see how long it actually lasts (lower pressure). Most municipal water supplies in Southern California have very little sediment and the filter can look white for many years.
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