Which diagram works for bathroom plumbing

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dgfit

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I hope the diagrams below provide enough info to help validate which of the three (or any other option I'm not thinking of) will be functional and meet code. Any and all feedback is appreciated. This is for a 7'4" x 7'4" bathroom. Nothing special - alcove tub/closet on one wall with sink on opposite wall and toilet in between.

Diagram #1 is the most straight forward - but is it acceptable?

Diagram #2 seems unlikely to get a wye in a 12" toilet rough in

Diagram #3 is likely - as long as I can get it to all fit in a (edit) stud bay

Plumbing 1.jpg

plumbing 2.jpg

plumbing 3.jpg
 
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Tom Sawyer

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2 & 3 don't meet code. 1 might be ok if the trap to vent distances are within code and if you can wet vent where you are.
 

dgfit

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2 & 3 don't meet code. 1 might be ok if the trap to vent distances are within code and if you can wet vent where you are.

Thank you!

Actually, I can wet vent and I think the distances are ok, but I actually already have a vent running directly over the tub and I have a wall, so I'm just gonna go ahead vent it. So my final becomes:

Plumbing 4.jpg
 

dgfit

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For my education - what makes 2 and 3 non-code compliant?
 

WJcandee

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Huh. Thought Tom was a hardass, so I have this question:

On Number 1, why is Tom allowing him to run the lav and the tub drainage through a low heel inlet through the closet bend? I thought that was illegal, and that that particular fitting was only permitted to be used in a different position with the heel vertical (for example as a vent). Regardless of code, it seems like a hack move in any event.

Also, what's the reason for using a bend at the stack rather than a san-T?
 
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dgfit

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I can use a sant - just need to bring the pipe size down for the vent in upper wall to pass through plate straps required for structural support.

I don't want to be hack - would greatly appreciate any advice.
 

WJcandee

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Don't mean to sound like I am getting on you, Mr. Dgfit; you were asking the questions and I suspect from your other drawings that whether that fitting was proper was among the questions that you wanted answered, which is what we are here for. I have a lot of respect for Tom, so that's why I am wondering why he thinks that fitting is okay as used in that drawing.
 

dgfit

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No offense taken at all - I honestly thought number 3 would be the safest code wise but also the biggest pain in the butt. If I can make number 1 work with this or any other fitting work it would be great. Any and all advice is welcome. I want to do it right.

Btw - I know I need to bring the tub dry vent 2 pipe diameters past the trap.
 

hj

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IF you think #2 and 3 are "illegal", and I don't know why you would say that, other than that the tub drain is too far from the vent under most codes, then you should "abhor" #1, because low heel 1/4 bend is NOT a closet bend. A high heel one would be better, but still no up to code. Final drawing is better, but you went back to the "heel 1/4 bend". Scrap it.

quote; I know I need to bring the tub dry vent 2 pipe diameters past the trap.

Well, now I know it too, but I guess it has not been a problem for my past 60+ years. And how could you install the vent piping any closer than that using common fittings?
 
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Jim Mills

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Why not final drawing in post #1 with this fitting at stack?
side.jpg

PS. where did my "corny" avatar come from?

That was me.
Terry Love
 
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dgfit

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The diagram below is meant to reflect the fitting suggested by Jim, and to more accurately reflect the tub vent. I welcome additional advise on what to do differently than this.

Plumbing 5.jpg
 

Jim Mills

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Looks like a bit of a flat vent off the tub. Can you make the corner with a sweep, and come off the top of the pipe either before or after the bend with your vent?
 

dgfit

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Looks like a bit of a flat vent off the tub. Can you make the corner with a sweep, and come off the top of the pipe either before or after the bend with your vent?

Ah - thank you. I'm under a linen closet off the tub, so I have plenty of room to come off the top of the pipe through the wall and then into a bend.

One problem I realized - I can't bore a hole big enough in my 2x8 joists for a 2" pipe and stay within code. So I'm thinking instead to run 1.5" from sink and tub through joists to 2" pipe running parallel with joists to the stack. I would rather have 2" all the way, but this whole project is about repairing the structure of the middle third of the 87 year old house front around this bathroom with every single plate cut in two adjacent stud bays on each of the two load bearing walls - total of 13 cuts in the plates, studs hacked to almost nothing to make room for CI stack, and every single joist either removed entirely or replaced from 2x8 to 2x6 to make room for 2" mud bed - and every single joist was badly notched with only 1" - 1.5" of wood left. The entire front third of the house was starting to bow outwards and the floor was flexing badly. Joists have been rotating and studs have been bending. For all of this - I am not fond of non-code compliant, unpermitted (or at least uninspected) work and anyone who hacks through framing indiscriminately. They know not what they do and nearly destroyed my home. I discovered all of this fixing a steel pipe corroded through which was embedded into the mud bed. I have been working with inspectors and have installed 12 strong-tie plate straps to get the walls all tied back together and replaced every single joist with 2x8.

My diagram below reflects my current plan for this DWV - again, I appreciate any advice for making it code compliant and not hack.

Plumbing 7.jpg
 
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