Just for a joke one time, I cut two pipes with a miter box at a 45 degree angle and glued them together to make a 90 bend.
That was with ABS, and it was amazingly strong.
What is the correct way to fix this?
- Thread starter dz63
- Start date
Users who are viewing this thread
Just for a joke one time, I cut two pipes with a miter box at a 45 degree angle and glued them together to make a 90 bend.
That was with ABS, and it was amazingly strong.
hj
Master Plumber
- Messages
- 33,603
- Reaction score
- 1,042
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Cave Creek, Arizona
- Website
- www.terrylove.com
quote; Thats not a proper repair.
And why not? It is a glued joint on a non-pressurized pipe. It will NEVER come loose regardless of "settling or pipe movement". In fact it would NEVER do that because it is secured to a solid length of pipe, so it would have to move WITH the pipe, not against it.
And why not? It is a glued joint on a non-pressurized pipe. It will NEVER come loose regardless of "settling or pipe movement". In fact it would NEVER do that because it is secured to a solid length of pipe, so it would have to move WITH the pipe, not against it.
Last edited by a moderator:
Sponsor
Paid Advertisement
Hackney plumbing
Homeowner
Because the manufacturer says its not a proper repair. They have that right,they make the product. Its not as strong as the whole coupling. Your cutting into an approved fitting making the fitting illegal because its not meant to be cut.
Dont get mad at me......I didn't write the instruction book on PVC and I cant help it a whole coupling is stronger than your 3/4 of a coupling.
Thats just how the cookie crumbles man.
In the United States alone, there are 15,432,624,101 laws, regulations, and codes. Tomorrow, 1,682 more will be added. It is impossible -- almost by design -- to comply with all of them, and every person in the country could be arrested, fined, and/or jailed if a "governing body" chose to do so. (Except Congress of course; they exempt themselves.)
Moral of the story: Learn to live within the intent of the laws, even if not by the exact letter of the laws. The wise man knows when to make the distinction.
Moral of the story: Learn to live within the intent of the laws, even if not by the exact letter of the laws. The wise man knows when to make the distinction.
Jimbo
Plumber
First, I will advise to the OP of this thread...don't stand on your pipe.
Second, I am sending an email to Sylvan asking him his opinion on all this! Maybe he will come back!
Second, I am sending an email to Sylvan asking him his opinion on all this! Maybe he will come back!
hj
Master Plumber
- Messages
- 33,603
- Reaction score
- 1,042
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Cave Creek, Arizona
- Website
- www.terrylove.com
coupling
For your information, there ARE PVC "partial" couplings and tees that snap around the pipe that same way and are glued to it. They ARE approved for pressure applications. I used them to make a greenhouse type structure.
For your information, there ARE PVC "partial" couplings and tees that snap around the pipe that same way and are glued to it. They ARE approved for pressure applications. I used them to make a greenhouse type structure.
Last edited by a moderator:
hj
Master Plumber
- Messages
- 33,603
- Reaction score
- 1,042
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Cave Creek, Arizona
- Website
- www.terrylove.com
quote; Maybe unless a guys brand new sewer blade hits it just right
Hits WHAT? There is nothing projecting inside the pipe. If something, NOT what we are talking about here, IS sticking inside the pipe, then a "brand new blade" might slice it off flush with the inside of the pipe.You are jousting at windmills and trying to rationalize your somewhat tenuous position.
Hits WHAT? There is nothing projecting inside the pipe. If something, NOT what we are talking about here, IS sticking inside the pipe, then a "brand new blade" might slice it off flush with the inside of the pipe.You are jousting at windmills and trying to rationalize your somewhat tenuous position.
Last edited by a moderator:
Hackney plumbing
Homeowner
No,Thats what the engineers at Charlotte Pipe said thats what your doing........in not so nice of words. They basically laughed at your repair.
I think they know a bit more than you do about plastics and what they consider "proper".
My inspector also laughed and asked me "what handyman is doing that" ???? Honest truth. LOL
We are not building greenhouses.....I dont think that falls under the plumbing code. I acknowledged the existance of plastic wrap around coulings that solvent weld but they interlock to hold the proper tension to the joint as it cures and supports the joint forever.
Here they are right here......at the big box where they belong. They do at least wrap around the pipe and "snap" together holding it tight forever.
The name of its called "Quick FIXX" its sold at the orange box store......there is no warrranty given by the manufacturer. I dont blame them as I wouldn't warranty it either and I typically do not make repairs I cant give a warranty on and knowing that going into the job.
Yes the tip of a c cutter could find its way into a 1" hole...and your patch job. Its possible but I agree its not likely.
Last edited:
Tom Sawyer
In the Trades
Indiana............Let it go
Last edited by a moderator:
Hackney plumbing
Homeowner
I like my pipe cut square and I like the entire pipe to bottom out in the coupling. Making a joint the way it was intended by the manufacturer. Thats all.
I had a great day and made some bank....I hope everyone else had a great day also.
I had a great day and made some bank....I hope everyone else had a great day also.
dz63
New Member
I got the condensate drain re-routed from the 3" ABS drain stack to the laundry tub today. There is now much more slope in the condensate line to the laundry tub. The installation looks very neat and tidy and went off without a hitch. Now there will be no more risk of the sewage backing up into the furnace, or risk of the trap going dry and getting sewer gas into the furnace. Thanks for your helpful advice.
I carefully weighed the options of solvent welding a partial repair coupling over the hole or cutting out the section of 3" ABS drain pipe. Decided to cut a section of the pipe out. It took me about an hour. I suspect that it would only take an experience plumber 1/2 of that time. I read somewhere that Fernco couplings are not to be used above grade, so I was a bit reluctant to use one. So I went with a no-hub type of coupling. I hope that this choice is OK? Total cost of the repair was $21 for the ABS and CPVC parts.
I am glad I removed the stack. I think I now discovered the cause of the drain back-up. And I don't think it was due to the condensate fitting protruding into the stack as originally suggested by the plumber who augered out the drain. The house has 3" copper in the basement floor. There had to be a good 1/2" - 3/4" of crud caked to the entire inside diameter of the copper drain pipe, restricting diameter of the pipe to about 2" diameter or less. I highly suspect that a clog occurred somewhere below floor level and backed all of the way up to the toilet on the upstairs level.
I scraped out the drain pipe as best as I could with a long screw driver and flushed the debris down the drain with water. I completely plugged the drain several times while doing this. Unfortunately, I could only scrape down to elbow, just below floor level. I am now wondering if the rest of the drain pipe is also caked with this crud. Should I recommend that they hire someone with a power auger to clean the drain right out to the street? Or should I advise them to wait until it clogs again and get it augered at that time?
If it was your home and coming out of your pocket, what would you do?
I carefully weighed the options of solvent welding a partial repair coupling over the hole or cutting out the section of 3" ABS drain pipe. Decided to cut a section of the pipe out. It took me about an hour. I suspect that it would only take an experience plumber 1/2 of that time. I read somewhere that Fernco couplings are not to be used above grade, so I was a bit reluctant to use one. So I went with a no-hub type of coupling. I hope that this choice is OK? Total cost of the repair was $21 for the ABS and CPVC parts.
I am glad I removed the stack. I think I now discovered the cause of the drain back-up. And I don't think it was due to the condensate fitting protruding into the stack as originally suggested by the plumber who augered out the drain. The house has 3" copper in the basement floor. There had to be a good 1/2" - 3/4" of crud caked to the entire inside diameter of the copper drain pipe, restricting diameter of the pipe to about 2" diameter or less. I highly suspect that a clog occurred somewhere below floor level and backed all of the way up to the toilet on the upstairs level.
I scraped out the drain pipe as best as I could with a long screw driver and flushed the debris down the drain with water. I completely plugged the drain several times while doing this. Unfortunately, I could only scrape down to elbow, just below floor level. I am now wondering if the rest of the drain pipe is also caked with this crud. Should I recommend that they hire someone with a power auger to clean the drain right out to the street? Or should I advise them to wait until it clogs again and get it augered at that time?
If it was your home and coming out of your pocket, what would you do?
Last edited by a moderator:
Tom Sawyer
In the Trades
First off kudo's for doing the repair the proper way and I would have an experienced drain guy/plumber come in and auger out the drains and maybe run a sewer cam down to inspect it too.
