What float switch for a waste ejector pump?

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog' started by ric-a-pic, Oct 29, 2009.

  1. ric-a-pic

    ric-a-pic New Member

    Messages:
    6
    What do you guys suggest on the best float switch for my new waste ejector pump. I bought the Zoeller 267 non-auto so I can put a switch that will last. Which I learned from you guys, thanks. Now I'm just trying to figure what one will be the best and last the longest. I don't want to be going back into that tank once it starts to get used. But if I have to, make it a easy quick repalcement of the switch.
    Should I buy one of the Rhombus mercury or mechanical or vertical switches or the Hydromatic diaphragm D-switch?

    Thanks.
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2009
  2. Waterwelldude

    Waterwelldude Well driller,pump repair. and septic installer

    Messages:
    303
    Location:
    Texas
    The pump down mercury float works the best and will last the longest.
    We have tried them all, and had the best luck with the mercury floats.

    The mech, ones have a tendency to hang up or get stuck on or off.
    They seemed to be the worst of the bunch.


    Travis
  3. ric-a-pic

    ric-a-pic New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Not a lot of mercury options for floats. SJE has 1 but it's a 2 wire and my pump is a 3 wire. Do they need to be the same and what about length? Does that need to be same?
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2009
  4. Waterwelldude

    Waterwelldude Well driller,pump repair. and septic installer

    Messages:
    303
    Location:
    Texas
    Your pump is only 115vac. The float only breaks one leg on the pump just like a light switch.
    Your pump should have a hot leg, a common leg and a ground.

    The float should break the hot leg.
    Most of the floats have a plug on the end.

    The pump should plug in to the outlet and the float will plug in to the pump wire.
    Most floats and pumps have around 8 to 10 feet of wire on them.

    Does yours have to be hard wired in?



    Travis
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