wet angle stop

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & ' started by rg21, Sep 2, 2007.

  1. rg21

    rg21 New Member

    Messages:
    5
    I replaced both angle stops in my bathroom. That was relativly easy with only unscrewing the old , cleaning up the threads on the nipples[attached to a brass fitting attached to the studs], putting on teflon tape to the nipple threads and screwing the angle stops on. Everything seems fine except the hot water angle stop will have a wet spot under where the angle stop and nipple meet.I confirmed this with a sheet of tissue paper. It does NOT drip as I have had a bucket under it to check for that problem. I cant tighten it any more[almost 2 full turns] but I dont like this wet spot and dont know what to do. Help please
  2. TMB9862

    TMB9862 New Member

    Messages:
    206
    Are you sure it's right at the threads? I've had plenty of new angle valves where I've had to tighten the packing nut.
    What are you using to tighten it and are you sure it's tight?

    If it is indeed leaking at the threads and tight enough I'd take it back off, dope the nipple, and Teflon it (about three turns). You don't really have to use both but I like to.
  3. cwhyu2

    cwhyu2 Consultant

    Messages:
    1,332
    Location:
    Cincinnati OH
    Take it back off remove the tape you just put on and ad pipe dope to the
    threads then teflon.Brass nipples cah be tricky.
  4. rg21

    rg21 New Member

    Messages:
    5
    I used a pipe wrench. How do you tighten the packing nut?
  5. TMB9862

    TMB9862 New Member

    Messages:
    206
    Just give that nut on the front of the valve a little turn with an adjustable wrench. It should be just snug, don't kill it or you'll wreck the valve.
  6. Furd

    Furd Engineer

    Messages:
    446
    Location:
    Wet side of Washington State
    I agree that brass nipples (or copper thread adapters) into brass valves or fittings can easily leak. In the olden days I found that teflon tape alone would not keep them from leaking and I would use Permatex number two compound. Now I use teflon tape and a teflon paste over the tape.
  7. rg21

    rg21 New Member

    Messages:
    5
    I removed the stop and removed and reapplied teflon tape and noticed on the nipple some what looks to be old pipe dope that was halfway on the nipple and I couldnt get it off[even with a wire brush.] I suspect that is preventing a proper seal. Any tips, concerns, etc about removing the close nipple. Do I just try to unscrew in place and hand tighten into the angle stop and then tighten the whole unit into the brass fitting.[nipple is brass] Thanks What can I use to break down old pipe dope so I dont have to replace nipple[solvent,etc]
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2007
  8. Verdeboy

    Verdeboy In the Trades

    Messages:
    2,051
    If a wire brush won't work, try chipping it off with a small screwdriver or an awl. Just be careful of the threads.
  9. GrumpyPlumber

    GrumpyPlumber Licensed Grump

    Messages:
    1,404
    Location:
    Licensed Grump
    Don't try hammering away at it with a screwdriver, you'll break the nipple inside the wall.
    Heat it lightly with a torch while rubbing off the old dope with a wire brush.
  10. frenchie

    frenchie Jack of all trades

    A stiff steel bristle brush has always worked well for me...
  11. Verdeboy

    Verdeboy In the Trades

    Messages:
    2,051
    I meant, but wasn't clear, to scrape it off with an awl or small screwdriver without using a hammer. A plumber told me a long time ago, that hammers and plumbing don't mix. :D

    BTW, I agree with Frenchie, I've always had success with a stiff wire brush, even on old, corroded galvanized pipes.
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2007
  12. GrumpyPlumber

    GrumpyPlumber Licensed Grump

    Messages:
    1,404
    Location:
    Licensed Grump

    Right, I just wanted to let him know that heating the stub will soften the old dope...then wire brush the gooey stuff off, would take far less torque and less chance to jeopardize existing pipe.
    Whenever I see IPS stubs I cringe, have had one or two break inside walls just from tightening a new stop on.
    On the note, use TWO channel locks..one to hold the stub steady, the other to tighten the stop.
  13. Verdeboy

    Verdeboy In the Trades

    Messages:
    2,051
    Good point about the heating. Hadn't thought about that. Might it not be a good idea to use a heat gun, rather than a torch though?
  14. GrumpyPlumber

    GrumpyPlumber Licensed Grump

    Messages:
    1,404
    Location:
    Licensed Grump
    I dunno if a heat gun would do it, but you have a point, a torch could over heat it if you don't know when to pull the flame away.
  15. Time1992

    Time1992 New Member

    Messages:
    14
    For stubborn stuff I use a small wire wheel and my cordless drill, works great
  16. Verdeboy

    Verdeboy In the Trades

    Messages:
    2,051
    The one I have gets plenty hot. I spent a couple hours using it to remove paint from a wood floor the other day. I had to dial down the temp when edges of the floor started burning.:eek:
  17. Verdeboy

    Verdeboy In the Trades

    Messages:
    2,051
    I'm gonna have to get me one of those. They must also make them for Dremel, Rotozip I would think.
  18. rg21

    rg21 New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Today the wet spot is now dry;I dont understand how that could happen;but...................Im gonna leave it for about a week and then hook the new faucett up.... what are the chances it will leak when I turn the water on or did it just seal itself?
  19. GrumpyPlumber

    GrumpyPlumber Licensed Grump

    Messages:
    1,404
    Location:
    Licensed Grump
    Sometimes on older valves they'll leak when you open or close them at the packing nut.
    If it stops after a bead or two of water, I wouldn't worry.
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