Well water test results back need advice for new setup

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denalitl

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Water Test Kit-90 results:

Boron - .15 ppm
Calcium - 130 ppm
Iron - 2.60 ppm
Magnesium - 128 ppm
Manganese - .499 ppm
Potassium - 3.7 ppm
Silicon - 12.1 ppm
Sodium - 107 ppm
Strontium - .6 ppm
Sulfur, total by ICP - 88 ppm
E.coli - Negative
Coliform - Positive
Alkalinity - 480 ppm
Bicarbonate - 479 ppm
Carbonate - 1.13 ppm
Chlorate - 1.6 ppm
Chloride - 300 ppm
Color - 40 c.u.
Corrosivity, Langelier Index - 0.6 s.u.
Corrosivity, Ryznar Index - 6.2 s.u.
Hardness - 852 ppm
Hardness (gpg) - 49.7 gpg
PH - 7.4 s.u.
Silica - 25.9 ppm
Sodium ads. ratio, adjusted - 1.88
Sodium adsorption ratio - 1.59
Sulfate - 258 ppm
Turbidity - 31.5 ntu
Total Dissolved Solids - 1880 ppm

We might also have iron bacteria, when I open the outside faucet the water comes out a very dark orange color for a while. I have also noticed the inside of the pluming to be orange and slimy. The water smells and tastes really bad and it spots everything.


I have a five year old Fleck 9100sxt dual tank water softener system, each tank is 96,000 capacity with 3 cuft of 8% crosslink resin. I have a 20" BB 50 micron filter before the system. For drinking water we have a R O system.
There are six residents in the house with 3 1/2 bathrooms. The water comes from a deep well with 1 1/2 horsepower submersible pump, 40 psi on and 60 psi off and 118 gallon pressure tank. Flow rate is about 25 gpm.
The master settings i have right now for the softener are per Dittohead's recommendations from my other thread https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/9100sxt-wont-refill-brine-tank.68778/

Master settings are as follows :
DF - GAL
VT - dF1b
CT - F1
NT - 2
TS - U2
C - 60,000
H - 55
RS - SF
SF - 00
DO - 14
RT - 2:00
BW - 10
BD - 60
RR - 5
BF - 20 (set high due to iron load)
FL - t0.7

Most likely will need to reset again.

Thank you
 

Reach4

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I guess you know that you would benefit greatly from a KL iron+H2S+manganese filter at the front end.

For dealing with things using what you have, some reprogramming to help deal with your iron and Mn better would help. Dropping DO to 4 or maybe even 3 would be wise. However with your water and consumption, you would probably regen more often anyway.

A good well and plumbing sanitizing would help too-- with IRB and SRB and coliform.

I have not checked stuff in depth. I think I got the main stuff. Here is where I would go without the KL:
System info (not programmed)
salt lb/cuft = 6 ; A choice ( efficiency vs capacity)
BLFC = 0.5 ; Brine Refill rate GPM
DLFC = 2.4 ; Drain (backwash and RR rate GPM)
cubic ft resin = 3 ; ft3 resin (each tank)
Raw hardness = 83 ; includes iron, Mn, and 1.3 high hardness compensation factor
People = 6 ; Does not matter for settings, just forecast
Estimated gal/day = 360 ; 60 gal per person typical calc
Estimated days/regen = 2.1 ; Computed days with reserve
Fleck 9100SXT Settings:
DF = Gal ; Units
VT = dF1b ; Downflw/Upflw, Single Backwash
CT = FI ; Meter Immediate regen trigger
NT = 2 ; Number of tanks
TS = U1 or U2 ;
C = 60.0 ; capacity in 1000 grains per tank
H = 83 ; Hardness-- compensated, see calc below
RS = rc ; rc says use gallons vs percent
RC = 85 ; Can use 0 if CT=FI
DO = 4 ; Day Override (shorter with iron)
RT = 2:00 ; Regen time only matters after DO days.
BW = 5 ; Backwash (minutes)
Bd = 60 ; Brine draw minutes
RR = 5 ; Rapid Rinse minutes
BF = 12 ; Brine fill minutes
FM = usually t0.7 ; flow meter,see https://goo.gl/UbWJWW

compensated hardness calculation:
test hardness 49.7
iron test 2.6 iron factor =5
hard from iron 13
mn test 0.499 Mn factor=2
hard from Mn 0.998
subtotal hard 63.698
high hard factor 1.3 multiply by (see
https://terrylove.com/forums/index....0-sxt-programming-settings.60651/#post-450189 #5
82.8074 compensated hardness
83 Rounded up.


Alternate settings: With 8 pounds/ft3, change C=72.0 and BF=16.
 
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denalitl

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The picture of BB filter after two weeks. After two months it's full of silt, orange and black slime.
 

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Reach4

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Yes, what size would I need? I was thinking I would also need a backwashing sediment filter and maybe chlorine injection.
KL serves as a sediment filter for smaller sediment. How bad is the sediment? A lot of sand, or a little dirt?

If you do continuous chlorine injection, then follow that with a big contact tank. The iron and Mn will drop to the bottom, where you have a blowdown port. Then you follow that with a coconut GAC tank to remove the chlorine. No KL required.

You may not even have a real coliform thing anyway. Did you sterilize the faucet you drew from? And even if you have coliform for real, sanitizing will knock that right down. So there is more than one good way to handle this.

How much KL? KL calculator: http://watchwater.de/Backup/systems/kl_system.php
It tends to return a pretty big volume number. One thing would be to use a smaller amount of KL, and let the softener take care of occasional leakage.
 
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ditttohead

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Considering how nasty your water is you may want to consider a h2o2 injection/contact tank and a KL system. The h2o2 and contact tank will cause the majority of the iron/sediment/manganese to precipitate out and fall to the bottom of the tank. A simple intermittent purge will clear the tank. The KL system should catch any remaining iron/manganese.
 
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