Well pump varies, Please help I'm clueless

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Lizzard

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So here's the problem, the water will stop running for about 10 min before it starts again. When it's off the gauge reads less than 10 psi. When the pump turns back on the gauge climbs to about 50psi, shuts itself off and then goes back down to below 10psi. I checked and adjusted the air pressure on tank (flotec), adjusted the nuts on the pressure switch but nothing has worked. We just recently replaced the gauge (it never moved from 0psi) and the pressure release valve (it was leaking, started as drip the increased). We replaced those at the same time. I figure I have a leak somewhere. I just don't know how to find it. Google can only help if you know what you're searching for.
 

Reach4

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So here's the problem, the water will stop running for about 10 min before it starts again.
The pump stops running 10 minutes, while the pressure stays under 10 PSI for 10 minutes, before the pump finally starts again?
When the pump turns back on the gauge climbs to about 50psi, shuts itself off and then goes back down to below 10psi.
The gauge rises to 50 psi and then falls to 1o PSI in 2 minutes or 30 seconds or what,while no water is being used? The pressure stays very low for 10 more minutes,

Where is the pump -- down the well, or not? If not, how many pipes go down the well?

For the delayed turn-on symptom, it may be that the nipple to the pressure switch is clogged, or the pressure switch is clogged. Try cleaning the nipple and replacing the pressure switch.

For the pressure not holding when you are not using water, it could be a bad check valve, or a leak in a pipe. Try turning off the valve that blocks water to the rest of the house. Does the pressure hold up then, or does the pressure still drop..

You might want to post a photo that includes the gauge and pressure switch.
 

Craigpump

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Nipple between the T and pressure switch is most likely plugged, replace it and the pressure switch. Consider a Well X Trol when you have to buy a new tank.
 

Valveman

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My guess is the leak and the bad tank caused the pump to cycle on/off until it is now tripping the overload. The overload resets itself in about 10 minutes and it tries again. I hope it is just a clogged nipple to the pressure switch. But if the gauge is on that same nipple, then the nipple isn't the problem.

Fix the leak, replace the tank, then you are probably going to need a new pump. The best way to make a pump last longer is to stop the pump from cycling on/off.
 

Lizzard

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The thingy on the bottom of the T has alot of red stuff built up inside making the opening a quarter of the size it should be. Definitely replacing the pressure switch
 

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Lizzard

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Is there anyway to flush out the PVC. to try and clear all of that out of the system. I just want to eliminate future problems. I only moved into the house a year and a half ago and whoever built it liked to take shortcuts.
 

Reach4

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If you want suggestions, I suggest you post photos of more of your system.

PVC is cheap. Replacing may be easier than cleaning.

You would probably benefit from sanitizing your well and plumbing. That can cut down on iron deposits. It may even remove some existing gunk. It may not.

For after your pressure tank, you can benefit from water treatment to remove iron and other things you don't want. I like kit 9o from http://www.karlabs.com/watertestkit/ You pretty much cannot filter before the pressure switch and pressure tank, because any blockage can do very bad things.

Where is your pump?
 
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