Well pump to 525 gal water tank help

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JIM4

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I am trying to lay out my field well to my 525 water tank. I want to use it only during the summer. I want a float valve to control the pump. I am trying to keep the tank full after it empties, and stop the pump once it is full. I am considering a relay on a float valve to control the pump. Black 1.5" well pipe to tank from submersed pump. Can anyone help me design the setup, I do not want to use a pressure tank or switch if I can avoid it. Simple, simple, simple is what I am after. It must run autonomously, so it needs to be reliable. I need help with design (will it work and is it the best, simplest way) and suggestions on parts such as float valve, relay connectivity. Thanks in advance.
 
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Valveman

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The pump up float switch would be better than a float valve. Here is a simple way to set it up, including a simple way to get water out of the storage tank when needed, which would be my next question.
 
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JIM4

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Thanks valve man. I did not mention, everything is outside and the 525 tank gravity feeds my drip irrigation system. The tank and well are located on a 50 foot hill above the drip irrigation system. So I do not need a pump to get the water out. I have seen float switches that have a brass rod and the float moves up and down, giving me a turn off and turn on signal to the pump. I would really like to use that if it is better than just a off float switch. Do you have any suggestions for relays (what kind, brand, etc). I am worried that if I were not there, and the float got stuck the pump would run continuous. Any ideas about that minimizing that scenario? One other issue too, in the winter I would need to drain the pipe above ground to the tank. Any ideas on how to do that?
thanks
 

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The switches with the brass rod are hard to mount on a plastic or concrete tank. They are made to clamp onto a watering trough for cows and horses. But they will work if you can get it mounted. And those kind of switches are good for up to a 2HP pump without needing a relay.

The pump up float switches also don't need a relay if you are using low amperage like a 1/2HP pump. They are much easier to mount in a covered tank. I use a piece of plastic pipe stuck in a bucket with a part of a sack of cement. Then I can zip tie the float switch to the plastic pipe anywhere I want like in this picture.
 
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Valveman

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A second float switch can be installed above the first float switch. They can be wired to the two different power lines going to the pump, which gives you a backup so the tank won't overflow if the first float switch malfunctions. If either switch floats up, it cuts the circuit to the pump/motor.
 

JIM4

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OK, thanks, but few more clarifications. The well is 300' from the tank, the power is coming from the garage 150' from well and also from tank. On your drawing (very nice btw) you have booster pump, check valve, PK1A control kit x2, and you have plumbing to house. On my application I only have this field well feeding the tank. I have another well for the house. I just need it to fill the tank. The pump I am looking at is this one

http://www.lowes.com/pd_313869-5736...oduct_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=Well pumps

I like the idea about two float valves as a back up. I thought I could do this with only a A/C to D/C relay, float valve, well pump, and power. Is that possible?
 

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Way more than you needed in the drawing I know. Just the only one I have with the bucket so I could show the float switch mounting.

Float valve or float switch are the only ways I know to do this. With the float switch you are going to need to run wires from the float switch to the power for the pump in some way. Or you could use a radio control from A to B, but you will at least need a battery at the tank to supply power through the float switch to the radio transmitter.

With a float valve, you will need a pressure tank and pressure switch at the well. A non-modulating float valve is best, as it opens fully or closes fully, and doesn’t cause the well pump to cycle on and off.

A modulating float valve (toilet type) will vary the amount it lets out according to the position of the float. The float may make the valve trickle water into the tank at ½ GPM for the last 1” of tank fill. This could take a long time and any time the float valve is not wide open, the pump is cycling on and off into the pressure tank at the wellhead.

Oh yeah, for the money that pump is as good as any. I think that one is a Pentair product.
 

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If I use a float switch, do I need a pressure tank? I thought I could use a well submersible pump, through black pipe to the tank. In the tank have a float switch that connects 12v to 240v via a relay. When the switch is on, pump is on and pumping water. When switch is off, pump is off. There is no pressure in tank or line, it's wide open. I will get power from my garage and would like to put relay there. Is that doable, or am I missing something?
 

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Will a float switch make the pump cycle on and off rapidly (thats bad right, wear on pump) Or will it just make the pump come on once to fill up tank and then go off. Also would you have a recommendation for a good float switch for this application. Also a relay, one more item too, can you show me how to wire in two float switches for back up if one fails? I really appreciate your help. I am about to purchase the items needed and don't want to get wrong items or screw something up. I have a schedule for the ditch, installing the pump, pipe and wiring it all up in three weeks from now. I will have about three days to get it all done too. SO thanks again.

JIM
 

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No the float switch won't cause rapid cycling. If you zip tie it up close, the tank will only drop a few inches before it refills. If you give it more length from the zip tie, it will drop lower and go higher before the pump starts and stops, which will let the pump run longer to fill the tank.

If you have a 1/2 HP pump, just run one leg through the float switch and you will not need a relay. With the extra float switch, just run each power leg through a float switch and you won't need a relay. If it is larger than 1/2 HP you will need a relay to handle the amp load.

I get relays from Grainger, and they should also have a pump up float switch.
 
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