Well problem

[Rick1550]

I have a submersible pump in a 35' deep well about 20 years old, that recently has an issue. The tank drains downs and kicks on the pump, but delivers no water to the tank, even though I can hear or feel the vibration in the pipe. If I flip off the breaker and turn it back on, it will then pump water to the system. Sometimes it will pump water and fill when it draws down to 30 psi by itself, but most of the time I have to turn off the power and turn it back on, and then it will fill. Any idea of the problem?

 

[Reach4]

If you have a control box (used with "3-wire" pumps) there is a capacitor inside. There is a good chance that replacing the starting capacitor would make the starts reliable. Some replace the whole control box since that might be easier than finding the capacitor.

Replacing the capacitor every 7 years or so as preventive maintenance is often recommended.

If you have a "2-wire" pump (no control box), this does not apply.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Rick1550]

If you have a control box (used with "3-wire" pumps) there is a capacitor inside. There is a good chance that replacing the starting capacitor would make the starts reliable. Some replace the whole control box since that might be easier than finding the capacitor.

Replacing the capacitor every 7 years or so as preventive maintenance is often recommended.

If you have a "2-wire" pump (no control box), this does not apply.

Thank you for the help! I do have a 3- wire control box. It would probably be easier to replace the whole box, as you stated. I assume the box should be the same brand as the pump, and matching HP, etc. or doesn't the brand matter?

 

[Reach4]

I am not a pro. The makers, such as Franklin, usually say that their controller should only be used with their motors. I doubt that as long as you can match the pump size and voltage. It is important how you connect the wires.

I would take a look in the existing control box. Finding a capacitor may be easy enough if you order. You may even find a well company or supply company locally willing to sell a capacitor, but I expect many/most want to not sell such a part to a home owner.

What control box do you have now?

 

[Rick1550]

I am not a pro. The makers, such as Franklin, usually say that their controller should only be used with their motors. I doubt that as long as you can match the pump size and voltage. It is important how you connect the wires.

I would take a look in the existing control box. Finding a capacitor may be easy enough if you order. You may even find a well company or supply company locally willing to sell a capacitor, but I expect many/most want to not sell such a part to a home owner.

What control box do you have now?

I have a Gould pump with a Franklin Model 2801054910 control box...and the label on the box reads..1/2 hp...230v...5.9 max. amps. the Gould's label on the same box reads...1/2 hp....230v....6.0 max. amps...installed in 1994. Do you think I can use a Franklin box (model number is different now I think) as long as it is for the same HP pump and amps?...Thanks....

 

[Reach4]

Same HP and voltage. But if the HP and amps match, the voltages are going to match. So yes.

Besides, a Goulds pump from 20 years ago would probably have a Franklin motor anyway.

New control box will get a new relay also. So that sounds like a good move.

 

[Rick1550]

Same HP and voltage. But if the HP and amps match, the voltages are going to match. So yes.

New control box will get a new relay also. So that sounds like a good move.

Guess I will go out tomorrow and get a new box and replace. I will let you know if that solved my problem...for future reference! Thanks for all your help!

 

[Valveman]

I am afraid you maybe pumping the well down and losing prime. When you turn the pump off and back on the air will burp out of the pump and it goes back to working. It maybe losing prime instead of getting to 50 PSI so the pressure switch can shut it off.

 

[Rick1550]

I am afraid you maybe pumping the well down and losing prime. When you turn the pump off and back on the air will burp out of the pump and it goes back to working. It maybe losing prime instead of getting to 50 PSI so the pressure switch can shut it off.

After installing a new control box, I discovered that after the pump filled the system and shut off, it was losing the water back down to the well. So I assumed the check valve in the pump was bad. I pulled the pump and since it was 21 yrs. old, changed it right away. That solved the problem, so either the pump and/or the check valve was no good. (Probably the check valve). Only regret I had was, due to needing water quickly, I didn't have time to shop around and get another "Gould" pump. That one lasted 21 yrs., which from everything I read, was a very good amount of time for a pump. Everything working great, and I want to thank "valveman" and "Reach4" for all your help! Very much appreciated!