Well pressure too high consistantly at 78 lbs, and frequent pumping.

[FredN]

My pressure gauge reads 78 all the time, and it doesn't go down before my well pump goes on. I think the switch is a 40 to 60 lb switch, so shouldn't it stay between 40 and 60? It seems like every time that I flush the toilet the pump kicks on. Then it stays on for longer than I feel it should to build up pressure.

In the past, there was a period that the gauge read 40 all the time. Then and now, I feel like I should just change the switch.

Should I change both the gauge and the switch at the same time...A gauge can't cost all that much?

 

[Thatguy]

Two readily available pressure standards to check your gauge and your switch are your auto's spare at 60 PSI and your mounted tires at 30 PSI.
You'll need some kind of tee fittings so the tire pump and the tires and the gauge/switch are all seeing the same pressure. A h/w store or auto parts store may have these.
You can average the readings of several tire gauges for greater accuracy, but you are only looking for coarse differences.

http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q="tire+gauge+accuracy"&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Rich B]

The gauge is probably stuck and the reading is not correct. I have a well pump and my gauge stopped moving and is stuck at 40-45. If you have a 40-60 switch that is about where the gauge should read......down to 40...pump turns on and shuts off when it reaches 60. I need to change my gauge but there is no shutoff on the tank side before the gauge......so if yours is like that you would have to drain the tank and relieve the pressure to change the gauge.

 

[Cacher_Chick]

A new gauge is a few bucks and is a simple matter of wrenching off the old one and installing a new one it's place. Use teflon tape or pipe thread compound on the new gauge threads to prevent a leak.

Draining the pressure tank and changing the gauge takes 20-30 minutes.

 

[FredN]

Thanks Rich and Cacher_chick. Two problems solved. One to go.

I turned off well elec switch, drained the pressure tank, found that the pressure was 20, filled it to 38 (for my 40-60 switch), replaced my gauge, and turned it all back on. My well cuts off at 62 PSI, and cuts in at 35 (is that a problem?).

Thanks,

Fred.

 

[Thatguy]

cuts off at 62 PSI
cuts in at 35 (is that a problem?).

Your pressure switch manufacturer can tell you the pass/fail limits for your switch, assuming your new gauge has zero percent error.
Measuring the voltage drop across the closed switch contacts with a DVM will tell you if the contacts have excessively degraded.
Can you post links to your gauge and switch?

 

[Cacher_Chick]

I wouldn't worry about it Fred. As long as it is consistent, it is fine.

 

[Wondering]

If the pump starts at 35 and you have 38psi of air doesn't that cause the tank to go dry and possibly cause a lapse in water for a few seconds? It would work smoother if the psi was at 30-33, would it not?

 

[Cacher_Chick]

If the pump starts at 35 and you have 38psi of air doesn't that cause the tank to go dry and possibly cause a lapse in water for a few seconds? It would work smoother if the psi was at 30-33, would it not?

Yes, Fred has 2 different threads going on the board. He should adjust the air pressure as you have suggested.

 

[Thatguy]

Depending on your system components, more than 20 PSI and less than 70 PSI seems to cover it as to give a reasonable system operating lifetime. I guess owner satisfaction is a different issue.