Well Leaking --Need Advice

[cdogstu99]

Hello--I have a well in my backyard that the previous owners had tied up to an irrigation system. The irrigation system was ripped up but I'm trying to figure out how to use the well. I turned on the power and cut off the water to the irrigation end---on the right of this photo. It appears that I can get running water out of the left hand side spout (in this photo) but there is spray coming out of the bottom of that black connecting pipe to the left of that blue well tank. I'm really clueless when it comes to this stuff so just looking for a bit of advice. Is this a simple fix/-just replacing that bad connector? Anything else I should be aware of? Think the well is probably 20 years old --do the pressure tanks need to be replaced? Thanks in advance!

 

[Reach4]

there is spray coming out of the bottom of that black connecting pipe to the left of that blue well tank.

Would that be labeled G in this snip of your photo? That is probably a check valve. If that is a check valve, you would probably be better off without that piece, but there are different opinions. If there is not a CSV, your tank is smaller than you would normally want. It could be OK for irrigation where there is a significant use of water for long periods, but it would not be big enough for a house load where the uses are flushing toilets and such.

 

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[cdogstu99]

View attachment 36001
Would that be labeled G in this snip of your photo? That is probably a check valve. If that is a check valve, you would probably be better off without that piece, but there are different opinions. If there is not a CSV, your tank is smaller than you would normally want. It could be OK for irrigation where there is a significant use of water for long periods, but it would not be big enough for a house load where the uses are flushing toilets and such.

Yep it's definitely G. Wow thanks so much for the labels. Sorry what is the CSV? My plan is just to use the well for water in the yard and to fill and refill our pool. We no longer have an irrigation system but regardless assuming that tank is fine? So would my next plan of action be to just disaseble that left hand side and remove the busted valve and replace with a new pipe? Do I even need to bother removing the right irrigation portion if we don't plan on using it?

 

[Reach4]

Sorry what is the CSV?

CSV could match what the pump produces to the load. Or you could try to do that manually. Ideally when you are watering, the pump will not cycle. That would be done by having enough water being used to match what the pump delivers.

If you could, it looks like another quarter turn on that faucet would make it easier to attach a hose.

I think J is a relief valve to release water if the pressure gets excessive.

You should read up on precharge (search it). Your gauge looks rusty, so if it is not working, it is cheap to replace.

So would my next plan of action be to just disaseble that left hand side and remove the busted valve and replace with a new pipe? Do I even need to bother removing the right irrigation portion if we don't plan on using it?

So you want to replace that valve? That is good. Consider a 1/4 turn ball valve. They tend to be more reliable. I have not done this stuff. I just read about it.

If the water isn't coming out somewhere, the existing pipes could stay in place I would think.

 

[Valveman]

It looks strange but I think G is a check valve. You shouldn't need it if there is another check valve in the well as there should be. Remove it or replace it to fix the leak.

I think the little tank is screwed into one of the many copies of a Cycle Stop Valve. If that is the case the adjustment bolt is sticking straight down below the tank and partially buried in the dirt. The dirt won't hurt it but I will bet it has filled full of water and rusted out the adjustment spring. I also do not see any kind of pressure switch. So the pump must have just been started with a pump start relay in the irrigation controller. If you want to just turn on the pump manually you can do so. Just make sure to always have something open before you start the pump, and for as long as the pump is running. If that is a copy of a Cycle Stop Valve and it is still working, it should hold the same pressure on the system no matter how much or how little water you are using. If the spring is broken and that valve is not working as I presume, the pressure will be really high if you are just using one hose, and really low when you are using more water.

If you want to make it completely automatic, make sure the Cycle Stop Valve copy is working or get a new CSV1A that is working. Then all you need to add is a 40/60 pressure switch that will turn on the pump when you open a faucet and turn off the pump when you close all the faucets.

Edit;
Oh and you don't want to ever use that faucet to the right of the well as it is prior to the Cycle Stop Valve and will cause the pump to cycle rapidly.

 

[gumbysucks]

If this is in Massachusetts The check valve would be above ground in this setup , And the drain would be used to quickly drain water thru pump in winter. They probably left water in check and it froze.

 

[Valveman]

Yeah I don't know why anyone would go to the trouble of installing a pitless adapter and not get the pipes underground. Pitless adapters were not meant to be above ground.

 

[Reach4]

If this is in Massachusetts

I doubt that installation is in Massachusetts.

 

[Craigpump]

Yeah I don't know why anyone would go to the trouble of installing a pitless adapter and not get the pipes underground. Pitless adapters were not meant to be above ground.

From a service standpoint, I'd rather have a pitless than fuss with well seal.

 

[cdogstu99]

Well it's been four years and I still haven't fixed the leak. UGH. PS - I am in Massachusetts.

So, i tried to go after it a few weeks ago and started helplessly trying to turn the leaking pipe with my wrench but I could not get it to move.

In the midst of trying to turn things I caused another leak. I'm posting a video below of my mess I've created.

Wondering--is it worth tackling this myself still...i'm assuming maybe I just don't have the right tools? And if I call someone what would this sort of repair cost me? Could a plumber do it?

Thanks

 

[Valveman]

You have an old Jacuzzi Aqua Genie. Turn off power. Disconnect the hose clamps from the pipe that goes underground. unscrew the tank, pressure switch, hydrants, etc.. Unscrew everything from the well casing. Then replace it with one of these. https://cyclestopvalves.com/pages/pk1a-pside-kick

Do not put a hydrant before this kit. But this kit is shorter, so you can add a tee or two after the kit and before the underground line if you want.

 

[cdogstu99]

Thanks Cary, does it matter that this well is basically only used for outside hose watering and filling my pool---it is not hooked up to any irrigiation system (it was however previously). Note the area near the tank wasn't leaking until i tried to unscrew the other pipe that has a blatant leak.

 

[Valveman]

The point of the CSV, like the old Aqua Genie, is that is doesn't matter how you use water. Without the CSV how you use water is very important to the life of your pump and how large a tank you would need.

 

[cdogstu99]

Ok thank you. And one last question (sorry) how do you know that my CSV is all done?

 

[Valveman]

That particular Aqua Genie is almost an exact copy of a CSV, so it might still be good. But having such a hard time getting all that off, I would replace everything when I put it back.