Well head cover impossible to get off

[luckyj]

Hi,

I've been trying to get the cover of an old well head removed....so far it has proven impossible. I assume that the cover is threaded into the downpipe. There are no bolts, set screws, etc, and everything is solid cast iron. This well setup is probably 50 years old and hasn't been opened for years.

It is a cast iron cover & well pipe and I've tried using a pipe wrench tightened on one of the protruding cast iron square hubs with a long metal pipe for leverage but it won't budge. I had sprayed around lid edge with PB Buster but this didn't seem to help at all. Before doing this I checked to see if it would pry up at all but it appeared securely attached by threads.

I've attached some photos....if anyone can provide ANY advice on how to go about getting this cover opened I'd really appreciate it. THANKS!

 

[PumpMd]

I would use a hammer on the side of well pipe casing where the threads would be, to help with breaking up the rust in the threads, so you can turn it possibly.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Boycedrilling]

Yup, that's threaded steel casing with a threaded plug screwed into the coupler.

I'd apply PB blaster everyday for 3-5 days. Then a BIG pipe wrench on the squares with a 5 ft or longer cheater bar on it. You should see how bent the handles on my 48" pipe wrenches are from using come-alongs on them. You could park your pickup close and use a come long between the bumper and the cheater bar, or Get a 200 pound plus friend to pull on the cheater bar and then start tapping the coupler with a 4 pound or bigger hammer. If no joy, switch to a rosebud tip on your cutting torch and heat the coupler evenly to swell it.

If all that doesn't work, I would put a "skinny" wheel on my 4 1/2" grinder and cut the pipe off just below the coupler. As you cut it you will have to drive some wedges into the slot to keep from pinching the grinding wheel

 

[luckyj]

Thanks for the quick replies guys......yeah, my last resort was to cut the downpipe right below the coupling but I was trying to avoid that.

Gonna try a torch first around outside edge...I also like the come along idea with pipe wrench....that may work out if not I guess I'll have to cut and re-cap with a bolt on cap.

 

[Boycedrilling]

I can't tell from the photo what size the casing is. Anymore the well cap we use slips over plain end pipe and is held on by bolts that make up a compression fitting. They are available in PVC, aluminum and cast iron materials. They have a screen air vent on the underside and a fitting for electrical conduit.

 

[Craigpump]

Dry the water off and dump a can of Coke on it, the acid in the soda will help eat up the rust. Then get a 60" pipe wrench and put some serious pull on it. Like Boyce said, use a pickup. You can use a 4.5 grinder with a whiz wheel and put verticle slots in the coupling, the coupling will eventually spread out and can be removed.

 

[luckyj]

Dry the water off and dump a can of Coke on it, the acid in the soda will help eat up the rust. Then get a 60" pipe wrench and put some serious pull on it. Like Boyce said, use a pickup. You can use a 4.5 grinder with a whiz wheel and put verticle slots in the coupling, the coupling will eventually spread out and can be removed.

That's not water....it' actually the PB Buster which I had sprayed again and let sit there...I dried up excess a while after photo was taken. I'm actually keeping it covered so no rain/water gets to it and will continue to spray it for a few days. If no success maybe I'll try the Coke idea (willing to try anything at this point).

But why vertical cuts in the coupling?.....isn't it easier to just make a horizontal cut thru downpipe right under the coupling and then cap with a new bolt on/compression cap??

 

[Craigpump]

I suggested slotting the coupling for a few reasons
The slots will allow the coupling to spread open
A lot of guys would use a torch below the coupling and the slag could damage the wire down hole wires & pipe
There appears to be a wood box of some type right next to and it would be difficult to cut around the backside


PB Blaster might work, but I don't like using that stuff around water supplies.

 

[Ballvalve]

Yes, just cut straight up the side of the coupler/cap. One or two sides. PB blaster is just a nice name for acetone or laquer thinner, a little diesel and some hydraulic fluid - used is okay. Put it in a pump up 9$ sprayer, and you got 300$ worth of penetrating oil. [Use it on all your equipment].

Heat only the coupler with a weed burner, massage it with a big hammer and twist with a giant pipe wrench that grabs all the tabs... If that elbow wasnt in your way I would use a 20'stick of oilfield sucker rod or a digging bar, and 2 kids could turn it. Probably the entire coupler will come off if you cut it right. Or maybe twist off the rusted casing at dirt level. The fittings are likely ductile iron, that's a lot better than cast in terms of getting it free.

Where did power enter the well? Or is it shallow? Looks like you have a slab one one side so that complicates it all. One thing for certain, forget about grabbing one tab with a wrench.

Hey- "time and pressure" like in the Shawshank Redemption. My grandfather would have used a hacksaw, three weekends, and several bottles of wine to get it off

 

[luckyj]

SUCCESS!!!!

Got the cover to release.....this is what did it:

PumpMD:

"I would use a hammer on the side of well pipe casing where the threads would be, to help with breaking up the rust in the threads, so you can turn it possibly."

I continued to spray it each day with PB Buster and then used a small sledge to tap the coupling/casing all around where the thread would be. Had the whole "well (pardon the pun)...here goes nothing" in my head preparing to be disappointed......imagine my surprise when I put a pipe wrench on one of the hubs and it turned with just a little effort. Once the top ring edge of rust let loose the rest of the cap turned like it was installed yesterday (and actually just the top ring or three had evidence of rust which was keeping the cap stuck & immovable...the rest of the threads were still looking almost new......I suppose this is because it is a fine threaded cap so little water or moisture got past the first 1/4" of the threads).

So.....everyone here gets a 1/2 a star......but PumpMD gets three!.....LOL, just kidding guys.....appreciate everyone's advice. THANKS!

 

[PumpMd]

It works when trying get out an old rusty bolt or screw by tapping the top of your nut driver(whatever you are using) while trying to unscrew it at the same time. We always had impacts when I was a mechanic for the Army.