Well Bladder Tank Fills Slowly

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog' started by stevester, Sep 13, 2008.

  1. stevester

    stevester New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Hello,
    Our 80 gallon tank used to fill in approx. 10 minutes now it can take 40 minutes.
    Checked bladder tank, was fine. Replaced pressure switch. Did voltage test at control box and at junction box at well. Control box has 240 between L1 and L2. Snapped cover on and went to junction box Green and Black 120 - Green and Red 3 - Black and Red 110 - Red and Yellow 118 - Black and Yellow 240 - Green and Yellow 119 .

    So bought new control box for the 1hp. Checked voltage at well junction box. Green and Black 119 - Green and Red 124 to 136 - Black and Red 1 - Black and Yellow 241 - Red and Yellow 241 - Green and Yellow 121 .

    Voltage has changed as seen but pump still the same. The five prongs on the control box are marked with the same color codes but the capacitor and relay are wired differently. Not sure what is the next step. Was planning to pull the pump (130 foot well depth) but not sure if maybe the new control box means that the wires should be changed at well junction box. Any help would be apprectiated.
    Thanks,
    Steve
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2008
  2. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,588
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    Check the amperage on L1 or L2. You should get about 9 amps. If so, you probably have a hole or a crack in the drop pipe. If it is pulling less than 9 amps, your pump could be worn out, the intake clogged up, or the well low on water.
  3. stevester

    stevester New Member

    Messages:
    2
    We found out that the Pentek Control Box is not compatible with our Franklin Electric Pump, that is why the inconsistant volt readings. The tech at Franklin Electric told me to check our amps as the tank is filling and that we should have a drop in amps as we get closer to full. That would mean pump is ok. But if amps increase or stay the same (ours stayed the same on one side and increased slightly on other), pump is worn. So I guess I need to go pump shopping!
    Thanks again for all your help,
    Steve


    Thanks for the further imput. It is a 1 hp. I checked amps at well junction box and at our house sub panel which is about 350' from the well. Amps had a much more significant change at the well. Amps on black wire at well increased from 7.9 to 8.5 and yellow stayed around 8.6. At the house of course it is white and black. Black stayed in the 7.8 to 8.0 on every test cycle while white stayed about 8.2 on one test cycle and fluctuated around 8.7 on another test cycle later in the day. I was advised that before pulling the pump (which I have never done)to go ahead and add a hose bib right at the top of the well just before the check valve. They said I could then eliminate a broken or clogged water line as I could pump water directly out of the well and check pressure. Another person said that I should never add a hose bib there. Any thoughts?
    Thanks again,
    Steve
  4. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,588
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    8.6 amps does not sound like a worn out pump to me. It is possible but, my guess is a hole or crack in the pipe down in the well. The check valve up top may be masking the problem, and is probably what caused the crack in the pipe down hole. A faucet or hose bibb at the top of the well is not a problem but, the check valve is. Remove the check valve. Then if the pressure keeps falling while the pump is off and no one is using water, it is going back down hole somewhere. Probably still going to have to pull the pump, removing the check valve will give you the test you need.
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