Well Bladder Tank Fills Slowly

Users who are viewing this thread

stevester

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Hello,
Our 80 gallon tank used to fill in approx. 10 minutes now it can take 40 minutes.
Checked bladder tank, was fine. Replaced pressure switch. Did voltage test at control box and at junction box at well. Control box has 240 between L1 and L2. Snapped cover on and went to junction box Green and Black 120 - Green and Red 3 - Black and Red 110 - Red and Yellow 118 - Black and Yellow 240 - Green and Yellow 119 .

So bought new control box for the 1hp. Checked voltage at well junction box. Green and Black 119 - Green and Red 124 to 136 - Black and Red 1 - Black and Yellow 241 - Red and Yellow 241 - Green and Yellow 121 .

Voltage has changed as seen but pump still the same. The five prongs on the control box are marked with the same color codes but the capacitor and relay are wired differently. Not sure what is the next step. Was planning to pull the pump (130 foot well depth) but not sure if maybe the new control box means that the wires should be changed at well junction box. Any help would be apprectiated.
Thanks,
Steve
 
Last edited:

Valveman

Cary Austin
Staff member
Messages
14,583
Reaction score
1,296
Points
113
Location
Lubbock, Texas
Website
cyclestopvalves.com
Check the amperage on L1 or L2. You should get about 9 amps. If so, you probably have a hole or a crack in the drop pipe. If it is pulling less than 9 amps, your pump could be worn out, the intake clogged up, or the well low on water.
 

stevester

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
0
We found out that the Pentek Control Box is not compatible with our Franklin Electric Pump, that is why the inconsistant volt readings. The tech at Franklin Electric told me to check our amps as the tank is filling and that we should have a drop in amps as we get closer to full. That would mean pump is ok. But if amps increase or stay the same (ours stayed the same on one side and increased slightly on other), pump is worn. So I guess I need to go pump shopping!
Thanks again for all your help,
Steve


Thanks for the further imput. It is a 1 hp. I checked amps at well junction box and at our house sub panel which is about 350' from the well. Amps had a much more significant change at the well. Amps on black wire at well increased from 7.9 to 8.5 and yellow stayed around 8.6. At the house of course it is white and black. Black stayed in the 7.8 to 8.0 on every test cycle while white stayed about 8.2 on one test cycle and fluctuated around 8.7 on another test cycle later in the day. I was advised that before pulling the pump (which I have never done)to go ahead and add a hose bib right at the top of the well just before the check valve. They said I could then eliminate a broken or clogged water line as I could pump water directly out of the well and check pressure. Another person said that I should never add a hose bib there. Any thoughts?
Thanks again,
Steve
 

Valveman

Cary Austin
Staff member
Messages
14,583
Reaction score
1,296
Points
113
Location
Lubbock, Texas
Website
cyclestopvalves.com
8.6 amps does not sound like a worn out pump to me. It is possible but, my guess is a hole or crack in the pipe down in the well. The check valve up top may be masking the problem, and is probably what caused the crack in the pipe down hole. A faucet or hose bibb at the top of the well is not a problem but, the check valve is. Remove the check valve. Then if the pressure keeps falling while the pump is off and no one is using water, it is going back down hole somewhere. Probably still going to have to pull the pump, removing the check valve will give you the test you need.
 

Technophile

New Member
Messages
8
Reaction score
1
Points
3
Location
Duvall, WA
I was advised that before pulling the pump (which I have never done)to go ahead and add a hose bib right at the top of the well just before the check valve ... Another person said that I should never add a hose bib there. Any thoughts?
Thanks again,
Steve

I am curious as to why they thought you should not add one there. Perhaps leaks, or where the water goes after it comes out of the tap were a concern? Traffic into the well-house, people tripping on pipes? I would not make it available for general use.

If the well top is subject to freezing temperatures, I would hesitate to add one. Otherwise it seems very useful during testing, to release air, to wash your hands, etc., provided there's an appropriate place for the water to go. Perhaps a bucket.
 

Technophile

New Member
Messages
8
Reaction score
1
Points
3
Location
Duvall, WA
... tech at Franklin Electric told me to check our amps as the tank is filling and that we should have a drop in amps as we get closer to full.

That seems like a misunderstanding to me. What I would expect:
  1. As the accumulator pressure increases the pump has to work harder to push water into it, so amps will increase by some amount.
  2. What the drop in current reminds me of: we had a slow well. Pumping water took around 6A, but when the water level dropped and the pump started sucking air it dropped to 4A. If that happens you need a slow well controller add-in such as a Pumptec QD. It detects the drop in current and turns off the pump for a settable time, to protect it from running dry and let the well refill.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,749
Reaction score
4,400
Points
113
Location
IL
As the accumulator pressure increases the pump has to work harder to push water into it, so amps will increase by some amount.
Amps would decrease as the backpressure on a centrifugal pump increases, contrary to your expectations.
 

LLigetfa

DIYer, not in the trades
Messages
7,493
Reaction score
574
Points
113
Location
NW Ontario, Canada
That seems like a misunderstanding to me. What I would expect:
  1. As the accumulator pressure increases the pump has to work harder to push water into it, so amps will increase by some amount.
Common misconception. Amps go up with GPM of water moved so when the GPM drops so too should the amps. A pump that has floating stages will not reduce the amps draw as much as one that carries the stages on the motor bearing.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks