Water softener installation: plumbing questions

[swlred]

Hi everyone, I'm planning to install a new water softener (48k, with a Fleck 5600SXT control) and whole-house carbon filter (this one, with a Fleck 2510 control), and I have some questions about the plumbing:

1) Can I tie the drain lines from the water softener and whole-house filter (backwashing type) into the 3/4" drain pipe that is currently used for the dehumidifier and AHU condensate? I'm concerned that 3/4" might not be large enough to handle the flow rates during backwashing. Here are some pictures of the drain line run from the AHU down to the crawlspace:

2) If I can use the AHU 3/4" drain line, can you recommend a good air gap device to tie the softener and filter drain lines into it?

3) I want to bypass the water filter system to provide non-softened water to the two outdoor hose bibs and also to the kitchen sink (to the drinking water filter). Should I tee off of the main cold water line that's just above the water heater, and run separate PEX lines to these three fixtures? Or is there a better way to do it?

Here are some more pictures... The water supply goes into the wall cavity behind the water heater (which is adjacent to a coat closet) and then down into a really tight area of the crawlspace. Here's a picture of it:

Here's a picture of how the water lines tee off the main supply lines to go to the outdoor hose bibs (similar tees go to the kitchen sink). I assume this is standard:

I'm new to DIY plumbing, but I think I can handle PEX (famous last words ). What tools and fittings would you recommend? I'm leaning toward the standard copper crimp type connections, but I'm open to other options. Any other advice or tips would be greatly appreciated!

 

[ditttohead]

I cant imagine that the current drain connection meets code. Do not tie into it for the water treatment. You will need to find a proper (Code Compliant) connection point. You must also use an air gap.

Pex is fairly easy to work with. I prefer the Oetiker clamps with the Apollo brass connections. These are more expensive than the all plastic components, and assuming they learned from their mistakes of 10 years ago (too much zinc in the fittings), they will outlast the pex pipe.

Don't worry about bypassing the drinking water filter, I would highly recommend a high quality RO, not the junk from Ebay.

 

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[swlred]

Yep, I thought the drain line looked questionable... Which parts do you think aren't code compliant? And can it be fixed? Unfortunately there's no other drain in the garage, so it's either use that one, fix it and use it, or add a new one.

Thanks for the tool suggestions, those look nice.

I've had RO drinking water before, actually I have a Kinetico K5 system. It's nice, but it's just sitting unused in my garage at the moment because I discovered that I'm personally not able to drink RO water regularly without getting lots of muscle cramps (especially hamstring cramps... ouch). After I stopped the RO water the cramps went away, and I've been afraid to use it again since then.

 

[ditttohead]

I doubt it is the "RO" water that is causing the cramps. Any water filtration system can become a bacteria issue se it removes the chlorine. Bacteria is natural, normal, and usually no big deal. If the plate counts get out of control, then it can become an issue. Water treatment devices should be sanitized regularly. Most systems are fairly easy to sanitize.

RO water is nothing more that water in its more pure form. Similar to rain water (after the first hour). Water will collect minerals and other impurities as it "ages".

 

[montelatici]

You won't have any problem with drain flow capacity during backwash as long as the two units aren't backwashing at the same time. Even then I doubt it would be a problem. As far as code requirements, of course it is better to adhere to code, but does that mainline ever back up and will your 2 backwash lines from the softener and filter be hard (sealed) connected via a T to the 3/4 inch drain pipe? If you could install a laundry type basket drain with reducers to the 3/4 inch drain pipe you could have an instant air gap by just inserting the flexible drains from the filter and softener into the laundry style drain without a fitting/hard connection. But, I am an amateur .