Water Softener Control Unit Settings for Daily Operation

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Robert Wagner

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Attached is a picture of the control unit for my water softener. I can't seem to set it for daily regeneration. Per the picture when I set the time it eventually jams up against the day wheel per the picture. How should I set the time dial, day wheel position, push/pull pins on the day wheel and the white lever at the bottom of the unit. I am able to manually cycle the unit. Any help would be much appreciated. Bob Wagner
 

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ditttohead

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The white gear on the right with the black arm (trigger) is probably broken. Look carefully at the gear, you will see where the white gear is turned by a small black gear. The tooth breaks at this high stress point. Replace the gear and you should be good.
 

Reach4

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I am able to manually cycle the unit. Any help would be much appreciated.

These controllers will come up used sometimes. Softenerparts has parts if you can trace the problem to a single part. http://www.softenerparts.com/Autotrol_Repair_Parts_s/2.htm That site is also a good place to download the manual.

It may just be time to replace the controller, or maybe the whole thing-- particularly since the resin does not last forever and the current size may not be right. I am still using mine however. I don't know the age and I don't know how old the resin is. Still working. A new softener would regenerate based on demand, so it would use less water probably compared to a purely softener.

If you just replace the gear, I wonder if it would be a good idea to lubricate something to reduce the load on the new gear. I don't propose to say what to lubricate. I guess the plastic-to-plastic bearing surfaces and maybe some things on the cam.

See http://www.softenerparts.com/440_440i_Timer_Repair_s/63.htm The way this thing appears to work is that the gear teeth on the red knob piece, but inside the cover have gears that drive the red counterclockwise.
There is a gap that corresponds to where the red thing is pointing down to the service position.
The skipper wheel pin (when in) pushes a molded protrusion (A on photo -- would that be called a dog?) in the red piece to rotate it CCW past the gap.

I am not totally sure why you have to push the red in to move the red thing, but the skipper wheel can do it. I think maybe the red gear moves just enough to get the gear touching, and the skipper wheel continues to apply pressure as the motor moves the gear. If that is correct, you could apply torque by hand for a period of time, and the arrow would slowly move to Start.

So I was wondering if something could be done to reduce friction. If you remove the screws to take off the face plate, take photos at each stage to help you get it back together. The exploded diagram helps a lot, but I would still take photos. To just replace the white gear does not involve taking off the face plate. I wonder if a spray lube could be useful.

How should I set the time dial, day wheel position, push/pull pins on the day wheel and the white lever at the bottom of the unit.

That white thing you think is a lever is just a pin that the timer in place IIRC. Push the flag to left or right to lock pin. . Point the flag up and pull the pin out to unlock the timer. Then you can lift the timer up and out to replace it or to work on it away from the softener. The power cord has a strain relief. If you rotate that, you can line the strain relief to where it can slide out of the slot to totally detach.

To set the softener to regenerate tonight, if it was working, you would push the Day 2 pin in. I think you already have your pins in, so it seems probable that you have the mechanical problem that Ditttohead suggested, or some other mechanical problem. I don't remember if you said the clock continued to keep time.
 

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Robert Wagner

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These controllers will come up used sometimes. Softenerparts has parts if you can trace the problem to a single part. http://www.softenerparts.com/Autotrol_Repair_Parts_s/2.htm That site is also a good place to download the manual.

It may just be time to replace the controller, or maybe the whole thing-- particularly since the resin does not last forever and the current size may not be right. I am still using mine however. I don't know the age and I don't know how old the resin is. Still working. A new softener would regenerate based on demand, so it would use less water probably compared to a purely softener.

If you just replace the gear, I wonder if it would be a good idea to lubricate something to reduce the load on the new gear. I don't propose to say what to lubricate. I guess the plastic-to-plastic bearing surfaces and maybe some things on the cam.

See http://www.softenerparts.com/440_440i_Timer_Repair_s/63.htm The way this thing appears to work is that the gear teeth on the red knob piece, but inside the cover have gears that drive the red counterclockwise.
There is a gap that corresponds to where the red thing is pointing down to the service position.
The skipper wheel pin (when in) pushes a molded protrusion (A on photo -- would that be called a dog?) in the red piece to rotate it CCW past the gap.

I am not totally sure why you have to push the red in to move the red thing, but the skipper wheel can do it. I think maybe the red gear moves just enough to get the gear touching, and the skipper wheel continues to apply pressure as the motor moves the gear. If that is correct, you could apply torque by hand for a period of time, and the arrow would slowly move to Start.

So I was wondering if something could be done to reduce friction. If you remove the screws to take off the face plate, take photos at each stage to help you get it back together. The exploded diagram helps a lot, but I would still take photos. To just replace the white gear does not involve taking off the face plate. I wonder if a spray lube could be useful.



That white thing you think is a lever is just a pin that the timer in place IIRC. Push the flag to left or right to lock pin. . Point the flag up and pull the pin out to unlock the timer. Then you can lift the timer up and out to replace it or to work on it away from the softener. The power cord has a strain relief. If you rotate that, you can line the strain relief to where it can slide out of the slot to totally detach.

To set the softener to regenerate tonight, if it was working, you would push the Day 2 pin in. I think you already have your pins in, so it seems probable that you have the mechanical problem that Ditttohead suggested, or some other mechanical problem. I don't remember if you said the clock continued to keep time.

There are no broken teeth on the gear and the clock keeps time and the day wheel rotates and I can hear the unit ticking. I just can't seem to set the pins the clock and the day wheel in the correct position so they don't eventually collide and both stop.
 

Reach4

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Main choices:
1. Go in to look for other damaged gears as described on the link above. But, would the arm be pressing against the skipper wheel if that was the problem? It seems doubtful.
2. Check the used market for a salvaged 440 timer. You might get a whole system for less if you haul out the old system complete.
3. Get a whole replacement electronic 7-day timer for $96 including shipping.
4. Buy a new controller, and while you are at it clean the old tank and replace the resin.
5. Get a new softener. If you do that, the new softener will probably have the input and outputs on opposite sides to what you have now.

How long has the softener been in service? Unless you enjoy fixing stuff and chasing parts, #5 looks pretty good to me, but #3 looks simplest and may be the better way to go for now.
 
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Robert Wagner

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Main choices:
1. Go in to look for other damaged gears as described on the link above. But, would the arm be pressing against the skipper wheel if that was the problem? It seems doubtful.
2. Check the used market for a salvaged 440 timer. You might get a whole system for less if you haul out the old system complete.
3. Get a whole replacement electronic 7-day timer for $96 including shipping.
4. Buy a new controller, and while you are at it clean the old tank and replace the resin.
5. Get a new softener. If you do that, the new softener will probably have the input and outputs on opposite sides to what you have now.

How long has the softener been in service? Unless you enjoy fixing stuff and chasing parts, #5 looks good to me.
Softener is very old so replacing it is probably the best option. Actually it is under a service contract and the entire control unit was replaced about two years ago. Guess I will call for service. Thanks everyone for your reponses. I really appreciate the time you all have taken to help me with this.
 

ditttohead

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That is a timeclock softener which is not legal in many states and municipalities due to its poor efficiency. The system should be replaced with a new one in the near future. Do you have a water report or a water district if you are on a municipal supply? Most water districts post the water results online. A new softener should have a metering device and the system should be properly sized for efficiency reasons. Autotrol still makes some great softener controls if you like the unit design you have. The new electronics have proven to be very reliable.
 
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