Water Softener and Filter Help Please

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msjs91011

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So I just bought my house and don't have much knowledge of well systems. I have a Kinetico softener and an unbranded filter. I would like to know how much salt I need to put into the softener and if there's any way to know when to change this massive filter, as well as HOW to change it? Any other info that I need to know, please share it with me. Assume I have next to no knowledge on this system. I am including photos (hopefully). I bought a pH meter and TDS meter from ebay. The water's pH is 7.0 and TDS is 429

Side note: I learned enough info on my pressure tank, which I had to repressurize to 38psi from 9. I also installed a 40/60 switch too at the same time I repressurized the tank, the water pressure was horrible. The old switch was a 30/50.

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Reach4

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I would like to know how much salt I need to put into the softener and if there's any way to know when to change this massive filter, as well as HOW to change it?

Put enough salt to keep at least part of the salt above water. I would slant the salt pour and watch for salt use, but once you feel it is working, you can add a lot more salt.

Filter... Turn off the water to the filter, and relieve the pressure by opening a tap. Expect to spill some water. Turn the filter front to the left. They make special wrenches.

You should lightly re-lubricate the O-ring with silicone grease (NSF rated) when you put the housing back. Ideally you would have a spare O-ring handy before opening the filter. If the O-ring fails, you have a problem, since you do not have a bypass on the filter. The O-ring might be https://www.filtersfast.com/P-Pentek-O-Ring-For-SlimLine-Water-Filter-Housing-151121.asp or be compatible.

There are wrenches to open the housing, but you can usually tighten enough by hand.

Could that filter element inside be a 2.5 inch diameter by 20 inches? That is one of the common sizes.

Get a pressure gauge that can fit on a threaded faucet after the filter. You can screw it to a laundry faucet or the water heater drain. When you get excessive pressure drop (comparing to the gauge at the pressure switch) , it is time to change the element.
 
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Bannerman

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Kenetico softeners are twin tank units which alternate softening operation to the opposite tank when the programmed capacity has been consumed in the initial tank. Once capacity in one tank is consumed, regeneration of that tank's softening capacity will then immediately occur and will utilize brine from the brine tank as well as soft water supplied by the other tank.

There is no time clock or electricity needed as the control head operates by a turbine which is powered by water flow. The programmed capacity is controlled by a plastic disk which is located below the clear plastic top cover. The disk utilized is installed when the system is assembled so changing the program is not generally needed unless the quantity of resin is changed at a later date.

A softener is not a filter. Most quality softening resin will typically operate without issue for 10+ years and will often remain effective for over 25 years particularly when the water is not chlorinated. Long term exposure to chlorine can cause the resin to swell and become mushy, often resulting in ineffective hardness removal and considerable flow restriction through the softener.

A softener does not reduce Total Dissolved Solids as it function by exchanging calcium and magnesium ions (hardness) in the water with sodium ions held by the resin beads. Your TDS meter reading has no bearing on the operation of the softener. To test the softener effectiveness, a Hach 5B is the recommended test kit to periodically test the incoming water hardness compared to the hardness of the water exiting the softener.
 

msjs91011

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Okay, next couple questions. First, is the photo below showing enough salt in the (softener)? Not sure what this part of the system is called.

Second, is it possible or worth it to install something in line to the kitchen faucet (and maybe other water outlets) to reduce the TDS or raise the alkalinity of the water? I found a rather informative video J watched regarding drinking water acidity and apparently if it's on the alkaline side of neutral then it's much healthier for you. In my head, the higher TDS coming out at the end means a faster buildup of sediments etc.

Based on the responses above, my noticeable lack of water pressure (feels like 30psi) upstairs in the shower could be the filter needing a change? Or do you guys think the pressure tank being so small is just not supportive of what's supposed to be a 2gpm max shower head?

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Reach4

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Okay, next couple questions. First, is the photo below showing enough salt in the (softener)? Not sure what this part of the system is called.
Photo did not make it, but the place you put the salt is called the brine tank. If there is salt above the water level after the water is added during the brine fill cycle, that is enough. If things are working and you are not planning to clean the brine tank soon, you can go much higher.

Second, is it possible or worth it to install something in line to the kitchen faucet (and maybe other water outlets) to reduce the TDS or raise the alkalinity of the water?
A reverse osmosis filter will reduce the TDS a lot. Get one with a permeate pump for better performance. Some come with a remineralization filter stage, and that would raise the alkalinity.
Based on the responses above, my noticeable lack of water pressure (feels like 30psi) upstairs in the shower could be the filter needing a change?
Yes. A clogged filter would reduce the flow available for the upstairs shower. It would also reduce the flow available for the downstairs water use. If the upstairs loads are 10 ft higher than the downstairs loads, that would account for a 4.33 PSI difference. Going to try that pressure gauge? Have you put a tape measure to your filter sump (the big part that unscrews)?

On the cartridge filters that I am familiar with, it is possible to remove the cartridge, and put the sump back. So no significant filtering in that condition. You could measure the the cartridge and study what elements are available at leisure.

I might try to have that O-ring and silicone grease available before opening the filter and measuring the cartridge. If the person before you lubricated with petroleum jelly, the old O-ring would have swollen, and you would not get it back into place. I use silicone grease when closing my housings with 4.5 inch x 20 inch cartridges. I have opened a cartridge about 12 times and I have needed one O-ring when putting things back together.

Or do you guys think the pressure tank being so small is just not supportive of what's supposed to be a 2gpm max shower head?
No. It is the pump that determines how much water is available for the shower flow. It is the pressure tank that determines how often the pump must run.
 
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Bannerman

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As Reach4 stated, if you're planning to clean-out the brine tank, then allow the salt level to go low. Your picture does not show much salt in the tank and water is just starting to be observed.

Normally, you can fill the brine tank to the top with salt. The water entering the brine tank by the softener will dissolve 3 lbs of salt per gallon. The amount of water entering the tank is calibrated to the amount of softening capacity which is to be regenerated each cycle. As such, a brine tank full of salt will typically not need to be refilled again for many months although you should periodically check to ensure the salt is being consumed.
 
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Reach4

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You should not have filled that big white tube with salt. That tube has a moving float that keeps a failure from overflowing the brine tank with water.

That tube is also useful to let you see the water level. Is that water visible at the base of the tube, or is that a shadow? There needs to be water down there to generate brine. It is possible that the Kinetico softeners add the water in the first stage of regeneration ("brine first"). I doubt it, because I don't find reference to that. Kinetico holds their documentation closely, but less usual aspects tend to get discussed.

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Bannerman

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You should not have filled that big white tube with salt.
I think the salt is sitting on top of the tube cap. The whiter ring at the top of the tube appears to be the cap which fits within the tube.

It appears to be water showing close to the tube. I seem to recall the Kinetico softeners in the facilities I managed, refilled the brine tank at the end of the regeneration cycle, in preparation for the next regeneration.
 

Reach4

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Good observations, Bannerman.
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I have lightened up that area to show the water line better.

msjs91011, that is enough salt for the period of time when you are keeping a close eye on things. This will let you monitor salt usage better if you feel like it.
 
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