Water Pressure Problems

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by jarmstr2, Sep 21, 2004.

  1. jarmstr2

    jarmstr2 New Member

    I returned from vacation to find that my home's water pressure increased substantially. It went from 60 psi to 120 psi despite having a pressure regulator in the main water line located between the water meter and the house. I replaced the valve and I'm still encountering some problems.

    I installed a new 3/4" Wilkins 600 PRV and I still get large pressure swings at the hose bib located a few feet on the low side of the PRV. The pressure will vary from 60 psi to 100 psi. At the rear of the house ( about 40' way) the pressure is 50 psi. What can I do to stop the pressure variations while at the same time get the pressure at the back of the house to be around 60 psi? Am I measuring the water pressure at the correct location at the front of the house, or should I be setting the pressure based on the pressure reading at the rear of the house? Can anyone help?

    Utility water pressure at the meter is 120 psi.
  2. jimbo

    jimbo Plumber

    San Diego
    The Wilins 600 has a maximum outlet pressure of 75PSI. Are you sure that the hose bibb is on the reduced side of the PRV?

    When adjusting the PRV, you should make about a 1 turn adjustment, then run some wate in the house briefly to allow the regulator to settle in at the new set point.

    If you are really getting 100PSI downstream of the regulator, it may have got some debris in the internals during the changeout.
  3. Deb

    Deb Plumber


    If you do not have a thermal expansion tank installed at the water heater location, you need to do this. When the water in the heater heats up, it expands. Since the pressure reducer creates a closed system, there is nowhere for the expanded volume to go, so the pressure rises. A pressure tank will take care of this.
    The Pipewench
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 21, 2004
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