Water line to icemaker in fridge

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brew24

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I will be installing a new 1/4" water line to a new fridge. It will be about 20 ft. It will be connected to
1/2" copper. Is a plastic line advisable or should I spring for the cost of copper? Are the clamp style connectors any good where tapping into copper?

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Gary Swart

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Cut into you supply line and install at tee followed by a ball valve. Then run 1/2" copper to a supply box (see the site below) From the supply box, use a flex hose with braided stainless steel to connect with the ice maker. Absolutely forget about the saddle valve (clamp style) these are trouble waiting to happen. The above method will give you a professional installation with 2 shut off locations and connection that will not kink when moved.

 
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hj

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Either install a new valve into the 1/2" copper, or use a "multi port" valve at the sink to connect the line to it. Copper is NOT going to cost that much difference for that size material, and will NOT spontaneously break to cause a flood.
 

brew24

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The connection will be in the basement downstream of a ceramic filter which has a ball valve just upstreasm of it. I suppose I could put another one in but when the filter valve is closed I am only without the filter and my cold water to the laundry tub.

I was thinking of placing one of these supply boxes in the basement just under the fridge and above my suspended ceiling and then run up to the fridge from there. I don't have the fridge yet, it's coming next week but I know there is a plastic line on the fridge back so I assume you mean putting braided stainless where this is right up to the ice maker.

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brew24

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I will be using flexible copper as it would be a pain to solder in my suspended ceiling. It will be about 25 feet. Is there any reason why I should not use 1/4 inch copper to just under the fridge and then stainless from there up through the floor to the connection point on the fridge.
 
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