Waste fitting fixture identification, "Stringer Fitting"

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dk1

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Hi guys,
I'm building out our 1929 bungalow attic and would like to add a bathroom above the existing 1st floor bath. I'm aware that I need to make sure that the first floor bath is vented properly. I have two vents terminating out the roof. One is the 4" CI soil stack, another is 2". I found this strange looking fixture on the soil stack and believe it is serving to vent the 1st floor toilet.
Have you guys seen this type of fixture before and could you tell me a bit about it?
Images enclosed

thanks
dieter
fixture illustration.jpg
fixture.jpg
 

hj

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It is a "Stringer fitting". They were a line of specialized fittings for multiple level buildings and certain specialized applications, such as yours. By using the right one you could avoid using a bunch of fittings and taking a lot of time and space to do it.
 

dk1

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thanks HJ!
So this fixture, if installed properly, would allow me to use the 4" soil stack as the waste stack for the bathroom above?
 

hj

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Your drawing and photo do NOT show where the toilet opening is relative to the 2" vent. IF it is 'under' the vent, then yes, if it is in line with the 4" stack, then no.
 

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Thanks HJ, I'm going to take a look at it tomorrow and report back.
 

dk1

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Ok I've looked again and the toilet opening is under the vent, so does appear that all the fixtures on the 1st floor have a separate vent (not the soil stack) that terminates through the roof. So I won't need to re-vent which is good news. Enclosed are diagrams of my proposed set up. Could you all take a look and spot any flaws? I'm planning on branching off the soil stack but not sure which fixture to use there.

thanks

soil stack and sink.jpg
shower toilet line.jpg
 

Terry

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Because your fixtures all have vents, that fitting CAN be a sanitary cress with bushings if needed.

However, many new toilets don't work well with Santees.
By code you can use a double santee in that location, but I wouldn't. :(

back_to_back_kohler.jpg


This picture is from Kohler.
 
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dk1

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thanks for the great info. So a double wye fitting would work in this application? That's a relief. I've been doing research and see that a double fixture fitting should be used, but I'm having a heck of a time finding it in 4". I'm not familiar with the 45 degree designation from the above photo?
 

Terry

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thanks for the great info. So a double wye fitting would work in this application? That's a relief. I've been doing research and see that a double fixture fitting should be used, but I'm having a heck of a time finding it in 4". I'm not familiar with the 45 degree designation from the above photo?

I'm more inclined to stack fittings now, and not have opposing entry points when a toilet is involved. I don't have issues with lavs, so little water comes out, but a toilet, the modern ones really slam it now.
The fittings at a 45, the double wye solve that.
 

Reach4

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I'm not familiar with the 45 degree designation from the above photo?
I am not sure if this is what you are asking, but I drew 2 45-degree angles on the drawing.
huge3.PNG

Edit: I got to wondering if the double 45 term might refer to each side. I have attached a modified drawing adding in blue 45 degree angles.
 

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dk1

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I'm more inclined to stack fittings now, and not have opposing entry points when a toilet is involved. I don't have issues with lavs, so little water comes out, but a toilet, the modern ones really slam it now.
The fittings at a 45, the double wye solve that.
so by slamming the fixture you mean the pressure and amount of water flow coming from the toilet could cause issues?

i'm not sure I could stack fittings as there is a bathroom downstairs. That would put the bottom fixture a good distance into that space. How tall would a double stack be?
 

Terry

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An older toilet is not so much an issue, in that even though they use more water, it's so slow...........leaving the bowl. It hardly matters.
But, many newer ones, with 3" flush valves operate much quicker. I'm just saying that times are a changing, and at some point, codes should too.
 

dk1

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So I could go with either the san cross or a double wye combo per code. Terry pointed out the pros to use the double wye. What would be the pros of using the cross over the wye?
 

Terry

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So I could go with either the san cross or a double wye combo per code. Terry pointed out the pros to use the double wye. What would be the pros of using the cross over the wye?

I love that. I get inspectors around the country calling me about the new back to back toilet installation issues.
Code for the "PRO" plumbers has been not working right. The manufacturers are aware of the issue, and I've posted that here. I'm still waiting for the Pro plumbers out there to start reading the documentation that comes with the products they are installing.

Since your layout is not back to back with opposing toilets, like hj mentioned, you can get by.
If it were back to back toilets on the same fitting, you would need to go by the manufactures recommendation, not the code book.
If it were me, knowing how new toilets flush with much more force, I would find a "better" way.
But I live in Washington, and I won't be affected. Go for it.
 

dk1

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revised plan. I don't have room for a double fixture or san cross to fit in the stud bay of the wall, so I went with a stacked configuration. Because of this I believe I need to now vent the toilet, I did so with a low heel 90. Any glaring mistakes to this set up?

thanks guys!
 

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dk1

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bump for a fresh set of eyes. Also I'm going to have to go with the 4x3 spigot closet bend. 2x6 joists, space is tight.
 
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