Washing machine drain

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & ' started by duarten, Dec 20, 2012.

  1. duarten

    duarten New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    washington
    My washing machine currently drains into my utility sink. We find this very annoying because the utility sink clogs easily - a rag may fall down by accident, or lint may build up. We try to be very careful about it, but we still get water on the floor every now and then, and that has even caused damage.

    We dont care about having the utility sink. it is just there to drain the washer, and it isn't even easily accessible for other things. We would love to have the washer plumbed so that it does not drain this way. our house was built in the '50s, and i have been able to gather that it is being drained this way because the pipes are not large enough to drain the washer.

    What I am wondering is how big of a project it might be to change this. I fully expect to hire a plumber to do it, because i just don't trust myself to think of everything that needs to be done in a project like this, but I would like to know if this is a simple thing for a plumber to do or is it complicated, and if it tends to be expensive.

    more information: the washer is in a closet on top of a finished floor in what used to be a garage with concrete under it. The drain pipe goes into the wall that is shared with the kitchen (and from there down to the crawl space). i didn't know if that would matter for access to the pipes.
  2. big2bird

    big2bird IBEW Electrician

    Messages:
    141
    Location:
    Anaheim, Ca.
    I am not a plumber, but without seeing it, it's kinda like asking how long a piece of string is.
  3. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

    Messages:
    7,309
    Location:
    Yakima WA
    A plumber on site can advise you of what problems you may face, but here are a few basics. The washer stand pipe needs to be 2" diameter. It must be trapped and vented above the floor. It may not be reduced in size, but may go into a larger main drain. The connection to the main drain and installation of the trap and vent will likely be the possible problem areas, but again, the plumber doing the job can give you the most reliable information. Cost will depend on what is involved. Often jobs that appear to be quite simple with no more information that you have given us, can turn into a major project. I know this really begs the question you asked, but anything else would be guessing.
  4. Hammerlane

    Hammerlane New Member

    Messages:
    252
    Location:
    Ohio
    Theres a good thread here on Terry's site that deals with wash machine/laundry tray plumbing. It is here:
    http://www.terrylove.com/forums/sho...-machine-utility-sink-drain-setup-need-advice

    The picture below assumes all venting above fitting #5.

    It is alway convenient to have a laundry tub near the washer. If you have a plumber do the work I would want a lundry tub and the washer standpipe. But to each his own.

    A picture of your current setup(drain) may help.

    Attached Files:

  5. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,811
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    A 50's home would have 1.5" for the kitchen.

    Since you are near the crawl, I would drop down there and find a 2" hub off the cast, pull the 1.5" out and using an inside hub fernco, run 2" out.
    2" is exactly twice the volume of 1.5" pipe.

    In today's codes, the only thing you can run with 1.5" is the lav.

    A washer used a 2" p-trap and standpipe.

    804.1 All plumbing fixtures or other receptors
    receiving the discharge of indirect waste pipes shall be
    approved for the use proposed and shall be of such
    shape and capacity as to prevent splashing or flooding
    and shall be located where they are readily accessible
    for inspection and cleaning. No standpipe receptor for
    any clothes washer shall extend more than thirty (30)
    inches (762 mm), nor less than eighteen (18) inches
    (457 mm) above its trap. No trap for any clothes
    washer standpipe receptor shall be installed below the
    floor, but shall be roughed in not less than six (6)
    inches (152 mm) and not more than eighteen (18)
    inches (457 mm) above the floor.
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2012
  6. duarten

    duarten New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    washington
    big2bird - haha. i thought that might be an issue, but i honestly do not know the names of the parts, and the plumbing is in the wall so i can't see it. i think that we will have to just ask a plumber to come and look at it. i was just wondering if it was worth our time to try to fix it, or if the cost would outweigh the benefit and we should just try to deal with the current setup.

    Thanks, everybody, for responding! Hope you are having a great holiday season.
  7. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,311
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    quote; A 50's home would have 1.5" for the kitchen

    Maybe in Washington, but in Illinois we NEVER used 1 1/2" for a sink drain, other than for the trap arm. In fact, we seldom used 1 1/2" for ANYTHING because we would have to change the die to thread it.
  8. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    21,830
    Location:
    New England
    FWIW, the stand pipe on that picture is longer than code allows.
  9. Hammerlane

    Hammerlane New Member

    Messages:
    252
    Location:
    Ohio
    Are you sure about that??
  10. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    21,830
    Location:
    New England
    Assuming those are standard blocks, it's over the 30" allowed. Many cinder blocks are 8" tall, then add the mortar - it's over 4 blocks tall. A proper revent has to be at least 42", and it's higher than that and not that far off the floor.
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