Washer Standpipe Drain

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Oh BTW there is an entertainment clause.

Say what?

Do you mean you charge per laugh?
 
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Redwood

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Oh BTW there is an entertainment clause.

Say what?

Do you mean you charge per laugh?

You don't see a pay the comedian button underneath each post?
No wonder Terry hasn't been sending out as much in the paychecks lately.... :mad:
 

Gsalet

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My guess is that you have apiece of 2 inch pipe underground, if it was a 1-1/2 cast iron pipe without a hub the pipe would not fit in, if it is a 1-1/2 cast iron hub you would have more than a quarter of a inch space around the pipe. Just a guess, chip it out and let us know
 

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Thanks for all the info plumber2011. The drawing was actually what one plumber had suggested (though I might have the curves wrong). I wouldn't have a clue what to do ; ) Was just wondering what the advantages of his plan are as no one else suggested such a thing. Thought it was an interesting approach. Even if I do know nothing about this stuff, lol.

Anyway, had another plumber in today to look at things. He says it is a 2" drain. So a 2" standpipe will be done, the d/w drain changed, etc, and the thing will be up to local Code. The dishwasher drain will go into a top piece rather than the side and will create an air gap, so that sounds good. He rarely sees counter air gaps around here. He's fine with the d/w on this wall except for the multiple fixtures draining into the standpipe, as it is, is a bit much, of course. Thinks it should be ok with the 2" standpipe though, as did another guy. Sees no advantage to installing multiple traps and specifically for the T/P. So don't know what they were all about. Hope I'm not missing out on a small miracle. As far as venting, he says the main drain is close so it's okay. That seems to be what others have determined. It's out of my court but it will be inspected this time!

Thanks everyone for your help. Finally, I think, this thing will be reworked so things function a whole lot better and it's brought up to Code. I suspect that drain will be less of a problem without the boiler plug catching debris (it was identified at a plumbing parts store). But it will also be cleaned out really well. And there is actually a cleanout in my future, lol.

Thanks again.
 

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I'm done! You just don't seem to understand that a professional plumber will KNOW what is needed and how to do it. He will not need nor will he want your advice.

You are so wrong. As usual, the workmen are screwing up. If I had been more involved and not dismissed by the professional plumber (who apparently ripped us off working laxsadasically by the hour), the plumbing closet could have been designed to shut the water to the house off with a water stop placed before the main shutoff. Then on the event of any leak in that plumbing closet -- main shutoff valve (last flood), d/w, w/h, or washer drain (usually) -- the water to the house would just be shut off. As it stands, a water stop was connected to the water heater. So that is the only leak that will be stopped. I will say his plumbing work looks far more professional and neat than others who have been through here.

You are so wrong that homeowners need to stay out of their own projects. That project cost a fortune and could have been so worth it if it had been set up to shut everything down at any sign of leaking. As a systems analyst, when they showed me what had been done it was apparent what could have been done instead to get those horrid plumbing closet leaks on the main floor under some sort of control.

They are also convinced that I will not have a drain leak again because the standpipe is now 2 inches. I know my own house. I could not for the life of me convince them that the standpipe wasn't overflowing because it was inadequate. It is a drain clogging issue. I find it hard to believe my drain will never clog again because he put a 2 inch standpipe in. I believe there's also a problem further down the line which is why they had to drill a hole in that pipe to begin with.

And does water only slop over one portion of the front edge of the standpipe when it overflows instead of overflowing over the whole top edge? I find that hard to believe. With the new setup, my walls will still get water damaged even though I requested they needed protection in a number of ways (knowing how the water splashed). He claims it will only slop over a small part of the edge and into the pan below. The pipe rests against the wall.

And now I find out my new hardwood floors were installed with finishing nails in the T&G. FUBAR. Had I known what he was using, it would have been stopped immediately based on common sense alone.

Protect yourselves people! Know what they are doing to your house.
 
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