Washer drain pipe

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ToiletFlapper

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So I just had all the galvanized plumbing in my house replaced with PEX. One issue apparently was that the room where the washer and dryer were didn't have a crawl space. So they ran the water lines in the attic and down the wall, but couldn't apparently do much with the drain pipe pictured below. They did drill a hole in the wall but can't exactly dump it out on my concrete patio...

So I hooked it all back up. Thing is, the plastic drain tube attaches to a metal tube that then slips over another metal tube coming out of the floor. There is a hose clamp on it. The house is going through inspection tomorrow and I'm not sure if whey they run the washer the water will drain correctly or if it will leak from the part where I slipped the drain attachment from the washer over the tube. Should I get some kind of rubber washer and slip it under the tube and tighten with the hose clamp so it doesn't leak or should it be good to go as is??

Pics attached...
washer1.jpg
washer2.jpg
washer3.jpg
 
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Reach4

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What do you want to happen?If you don't want it to fail, and if it is a plumbing inspection of the new work, don't make it look like new work. A house inspector would run the washer to see if it drains. I doubt that a plumbing inspector would do that. If he does, you are not close. You are not asking what it would take to actually be up to code, I don't think. But if you were, you would need to not reduce that pipe coming out of the floor. You would add a P-trap and a vent. Current code would call for 2 inch pipe. 1.5 would probably work.

So I think the plumbing inspector is probably going to be looking at the new stuff, rather than checking your existing stuff. If you want to pass, don't make it look new.

Strange, it's passed inspection 6 times in the past 20 years that the house has changed hands.
Really? Do you mean a buyer's house inspector? Way different from a plumbing inspector.

I am not a plumber or other pro.
 

ToiletFlapper

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What do you want to happen?If you don't want it to fail, and if it is a plumbing inspection of the new work, don't make it look like new work. A house inspector would run the washer to see if it drains. I doubt that a plumbing inspector would do that. If he does, you are not close. You are not asking what it would take to actually be up to code, I don't think. But if you were, you would need to not reduce that pipe coming out of the floor. You would add a P-trap and a vent. Current code would call for 2 inch pipe. 1.5 would probably work.

So I think the plumbing inspector is probably going to be looking at the new stuff, rather than checking your existing stuff. If you want to pass, don't make it look new.


Really? Do you mean a buyer's house inspector? Way different from a plumbing inspector.

I am not a plumber or other pro.


It's a general inspection for a house sale, not a plumbing specific inspection by a plumbing company or the city inspector...

I'm looking for exactly what I asked in my first post, along with pictures: how do I ensure this joint doesn't leak? Just tighten the hose clamp? What?
 

Stuff

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You are asking how to cheat on an inspection to hide problems so don't expect good answers. What did the plumber say needed to be done to fix it properly? And why didn't you have them fix this problem?
 

Reach4

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Suppose you had asked how to make it much better, from function and almost current code (current code wants 2 inch), given what you have, I would have suggested something like I sketched below. You would unscrew that smaller pipe from that PVC coupler, and screw on a pipe of whatever size is there (1.5 inch?). The air gap would fit into the top of the standpipe.

I would add a clamp on the standpipe to the wall to make it stronger.
img6.jpg

I am curious-- were any of those previous sales by you?
 
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Terry

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What you have would not pass in King County Washington. Not now or in the last forty years.
Not by a plumbing inspector, which is entirely different than a "home inspector".
 

clix

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Is that flexible hose attached in any fashion? Seems like it's setup to loosen over time and spray water on the receptacles on the wall nearby. I would think even a "safe for habitation" type inspection might flag that as something that would need attention.
 

Sylvan

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Civilized would require a 2" line, properly vented (No AAV) trapped No bushing to reduce the correct original size and possibly an GFI
 

Stuff

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Also to be clear: You not supposed to seal where a washer drain hose goes into a standpipe. An air break/gap is needed.
 
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