Want To Add Wash Sink In Garage--How To Drain

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & ' started by Hammerlane, Oct 15, 2012.

  1. Hammerlane

    Hammerlane New Member

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    252
    Location:
    Ohio
    I want to add a wash sink inside my garage. On the opposite side of the wall where I want to add the wash sink there is an inside bathroom sink. See two different diagrams below for existing setup. What I want to do will be in my next post.

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    Last edited: Oct 15, 2012
  2. Hammerlane

    Hammerlane New Member

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    Location:
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    I'd like to see if this is the correct way of adding in a drain for a slop sink in the garage based on the existing plumbing in post #1.

    San-T "C" in the first diagram below would be the stub out for the garage slop sink

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    Last edited: Oct 15, 2012
  3. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

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    No traps. All fixtures need a trap (toilets have theirs built in) Nothing you have shown would pass inspection.
  4. Hammerlane

    Hammerlane New Member

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    252
    Location:
    Ohio
    Thanks for the look Gary but I stopped the drawings at both stub outs. Didnt think I needed to draw in the traps for the fixtures. Assumed that was a given.

    The picture below is my bathrrom sink...see photo below. I do not yet have the slop sink as I'm waiting to make sure my process is correct.

    What are your thoughts on the way I'd like to cut it the drain for the garage slop sink...shown in post #2.. based on my existing plumbing of the existing bathroom sink in post #1??

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    Last edited: Oct 16, 2012
  5. Hammerlane

    Hammerlane New Member

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    Location:
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    Again to clarify, I stopped the drawings at both stub outs. Didnt think I needed to draw in the traps for the fixtures. The photo below is what the plumbing will look like for the slop sink in garage from the stub out. This photo in this post is not my sink. I found it on internet just to illustrate that I stopped my drawings at the stub outs.

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  6. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

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    As drawn the red "vent" up and over to the existing vent is both unnecessary and irrelevent. However, the vertical distance from the existing tee to the new one is too great for a "wet vent". You need to rethink your connection. If your drawing is correct, then the new drain opening is going to be too high for a conventional "slop sink". Including the traps in the original drawings would have just been adding "clutter" since they had nothing to do with the question.
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2012
  7. Hammerlane

    Hammerlane New Member

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    Location:
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    Yeah Thanks...my diagram is not to any scale. Should of pointed that out.

    The new stub out for the slop sink would be 18 inches off the garage floor. Don't think that would be too high. You are saying besides that point, I can't wet-vent this new slop sink because it is on a different level than the bathroom sink?

    I know AAV's are allowed in my locale. What if I was able to use an AAV for the garage slop sink. Can I still use the arrangement like in this photo below where I just cut in San-T at position "A" which would be used to pick up the garage slop sink.

    Would this be proper??

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    Last edited: Oct 16, 2012
  8. Hammerlane

    Hammerlane New Member

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    252
    Location:
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    Sorry had wrong diagram in post above...it is correct now. Correct as in it is the one I wanted to upload...still waiting to see if it is correct functionally??
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2012
  9. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

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    Regarding the concern I had about not seeing P traps, on this forum it's risky to assume anything, even as basic as P traps. Some of the ideas for plumbing are often almost 3rd world.
  10. Hammerlane

    Hammerlane New Member

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    Location:
    Ohio
    Gary..I know AAV's are allowed in my locale. Will the arrangement in the photo below where I just cut in a San-T at position "A" be OK to pick up the slop sink?


    If you are not unable to answer the question as to whether cutting in a San-T at position "A" would be OK with the use of an AAV then it is OK to say you do not know.

    Thanks,

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    Last edited: Oct 16, 2012
  11. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

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    I am not an authority on AAVs, but my shop sink was installed by a licensed plumber and uses and AAV set up much like what you show. I do know that when used, there must be access for replacement as they are mechanical devices and therefore subject to eventual failure.
  12. Hammerlane

    Hammerlane New Member

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    252
    Location:
    Ohio
    OK thats a start. The AAV would be accessible. Now I need someone to chime in to see if the San-T is correct.
  13. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,684
    Location:
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    Use your original concept, except turn the lower san tee sideways, then connect your "red vent" to a combo in the horizontal pipe, finally, an elbow out to the sink trap. 18" may be too high for the sink unless you use a "wall hung" one which can be raised if necessary.
  14. Hammerlane

    Hammerlane New Member

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    Location:
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    HJ...not really following what you are saying. When you say turn the lower San-T sideways do you mean so that the tap is to the right....like the diagram below. What purpose would this do being that then I would have to elbow out to pick up the slop sink trap.
    Also where are you saying to connect your "red vent" to a combo in the horizontal pipe??

    I've labeled some sections of pipe with numbers and all fittings with letters so that you may easier describe.

    And you are right about using a wall hung sink.

    Thanks

    Don't u

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    Last edited: Oct 17, 2012
  15. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,684
    Location:
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    turn ""C" to the left. Then go to a 2 x 1 1/2" combo on its back. Go up from the combo, (#1 would be moved further to the left, then over to the tee using a longer #2. A street elbow into the end of the combo facing out into th)e room will then be your trap connection. You can either install a 2x 1 1/2" bushing before the street ell and use a 1 1/2" ell or put the bushing into a 2" street elbow.
  16. Hammerlane

    Hammerlane New Member

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    252
    Location:
    Ohio
    OK...I think I see what you mean now...so Fitting "B" would be an elbow and not a San-T correct?
  17. Hammerlane

    Hammerlane New Member

    Messages:
    252
    Location:
    Ohio
    Wanted to redo the diagram according to your suggestion. Attached is the first way, then the first way revised according to hj's suggestion. In the revised drawing, fitting "G" is the street-90 that would pick up the trap.

    Question:
    what is the advantage to taking San-T "C", in the first drawing at rotating it like in the revised? why not just stub out from its first orientation?

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    Last edited: Oct 17, 2012
  18. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,684
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    To quote professor 'Enry 'Iggins, "By Jove, I think he's got it." You could not keep the tee's original orientation unless you wanted a lot of pipe outside the wall.
  19. Hammerlane

    Hammerlane New Member

    Messages:
    252
    Location:
    Ohio
    I'm still gonna need the stub-out coming "out of the wall" from the Street 90(fitting G). Don't see how stubbing out from the Street-90 compared to the San-T saves pipe length coming out of the wall.

    But I appreciate your advice....learning a little about venting.

    Thanks
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