Villager Tub in Alcove

[Winger27]

I am installing a Villager tub in an alcove. The rough opening is 60 3/4". I'll be hanging 1/2" backerboard around. Do I need to shim the sides to get the right overhang on the tub for tiling? Thanks

 

[Cacher_Chick]

You could shim it a little but your waterproofing band and thinset should put you about where you want to be.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Winger27]

Sorry not sure what you mean by a waterproof band. I am putting a 6mil vapor barrier behind.

 

[DougB]

I recently installed a Kohler Expanse tub. The flange is about 1/2" thick. I was going to run the cement board over the flange - but the thickness of the flange + cement board + tile was 1 1/2" - way too far into the tub. I wound up shimming the studs just a little - the cement board is 1/4" above the flange, and it's caulked with silicon. The bottom row of tile bridge the cement board and the flange.

 

[hj]

If you center the tub it will be 3/8" from either end and since your "backerboard" is 1/2" it will already overhang the flange of the tub so the tile will come down the tub when it is installed.

 

[ShowerDude]

Sorry not sure what you mean by a waterproof band. I am putting a 6mil vapor barrier behind.

Winger,

Use your level and carpenters square "first" to get your framing right.........Make sure corners are plumb and square and your walls in plane FIRST...You minipulate this with simple drywall shims and force it into your best version of plumb square and in plane .!...... Then assess with said level if you are clear of tub flange.

If your level does not slide down the wall and clear the top of flange and you want it to, use more drywall shims equally to fur the walls out and meet your clearance demands.

This will also help you more than you know when it comes time to layout and tile, and will result in the best outcome visually.

If you are using a vapor barrier behind cement board..... "do not waterproof topically"..... If you are dealing with an exterior wall in your alcove you will need to meet local code and vapor barrier/insulation specs. This local code creates issues with waterproofing and you should refer to tech support from the specific MFG in question to resolve before moving fwd with a vapor and waterproofing combo.


If A guy named Jim stops by with a pair of red converse shoes on RUN ! as he will confuse you even more.


That is how I would approach your situation if you had hired me PROFESSIONALLY to prepare your walls for tile. -Redshoe

 

[Winger27]

The Villager tub has very little flange, in fact kinda just a hump, so I'm not worried to much about going over it. I agree with hj the 1/2" cbu with the tile overhanging seems to be right. Redshoe I am only using a vapor barrier, and 1side wall is exterior. It has blown in insulation which I'm not gonna touch. Not sure of the building code for that

 

[ShowerDude]

The Villager tub has very little flange, in fact kinda just a hump, so I'm not worried to much about going over it. I agree with hj the 1/2" cbu with the tile overhanging seems to be right. Redshoe I am only using a vapor barrier, and 1side wall is exterior. It has blown in insulation which I'm not gonna touch. Not sure of the building code for that

Winger check with your local building code inspector for the proper insulation/vapor barrier for your local code compliance.

If you spend time now getting your walls Plumb, square, and in plane, you can better square up your tub in its alcove, this will result in what we call an "Even reveal" around the minimal tub deck you may be dealing with ( i have not seen your villager). The difference between a pro result and A X$#@ result is in the details. IMHO!!! of course there is more to it but you get the idea???

Good luck and share some pics when you can