Vanity Drain Move

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & ' started by diydude, Jun 26, 2013.

  1. diydude

    diydude New Member

    Messages:
    62
    Location:
    Seattle,WA
    I'm in the process of moving a drain in a non-load bearing wall for a vanity I'm installing. I've carefully staked out the new location of the drain to correspond with the square factory cutout on the back of the vanity. I've attached a few pictures:

    (1) Pic 1: Current location. New location is marked by "cross-hairs" on the cardboard attached to the wall studs.

    (2) Pic 2: Picture from a plumbing book I've been using.

    (3) Pic 3: Coupling I was going to use at one of the ABS pipe joints. The rest of the joints would utilize rigid ABS couplings.

    Does this seem like a good plan? I'll obviously have to pay attention to the location of other plumbing lines and electrical lines. This work will be inspected by the city when I'm finished.

    Thanks.

    Attached Files:

  2. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,631
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    drain

    Picture #1. I see a horizontal line but no crosshairs. Picture #2 is overkill for your purposes. You just need a sanitary tee turned to the side and a pipe over to the location with an elbow on the end Picture #3, WRONG coupling.
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2013
  3. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,003
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    Like hj mentions; Cut out the lav santee, and replace with one pointing toward the right, and then 90 out of the wall there.
    The correct couplings woud be a metal shield coupling.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2013
  4. Hammerlane

    Hammerlane New Member

    Messages:
    252
    Location:
    Ohio
    Fittings #1 and #7 below:

    Attached Files:

  5. diydude

    diydude New Member

    Messages:
    62
    Location:
    Seattle,WA
    I've attached a better pic that includes lines drawn with a sharpie; the cross-hairs represent the center point inside the square drain opening on the back of the vanity. I also drew lines on the studs to represent the top and bottom of the vanity's square opening. Since I need to clear the shutoff valves to tee off to the right, how high can I go with a new tee?

    Attached Files:

  6. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,003
    Location:
    New England
    Assuming the existing trap is properly vented, if you turned the fitting (it will require cutting and replacing) to run along the wall, the vent is close enough so that you can just run it horizontally and then turn it out of the wall where you need it. It should have a downward slope from where it turns out from the wall back to the new fitting.
  7. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,003
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    The height of the tee is determined by the counter height.
    In the 70's, we roughed at 18" for a 30" counter
    Then at 20" for a 32"
    If you have a 36", then maybe 24"
    All of this has a little plus or minus, and depends on the depth of the bowl. An undermount may drop things a bit.

    If the copper is in the way, get rid of it, run the waste and then put the copper back around it.
    Waste has to grade down, water supply can go in circles if needed.
  8. diydude

    diydude New Member

    Messages:
    62
    Location:
    Seattle,WA
    I took some measurements. I've also included pics of the vanity. Also, I'm not sure if I'll need the flexible coupling, but Home Depot only had 1 1/2" to 1 1/4" couplings. Are the couplings with the ribbed shielding the same?:

    Bottom of sink from floor: 26 3/4"
    Counter height: 34 3/4"
    Bottom of current drain pipe from subfloor: approx 16 1/2"

    DSC01104.jpg

    DSC01103.JPG
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2013
  9. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,003
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    Home Depot has the 1.5" couplings.
    Roughing at 20" should be safe if there is not a drawer below.
    You can always add tail piece.
  10. diydude

    diydude New Member

    Messages:
    62
    Location:
    Seattle,WA
    Ok, I'll make another trip to the Depot and take a closer look. There's a drawer below the sink, but it tops out at approx 13 1/2" from the floor. So, I should be in good shape. Thanks to everyone for your expertise. It's greatly appreciated.
  11. diydude

    diydude New Member

    Messages:
    62
    Location:
    Seattle,WA
    I found the shielded coupling at HD. One of the associates and I overlooked it the first time around.

    Ok, I have another question: Is there anything wrong with routing the pipe the way I'd originally planned? I forgot that there's some heavy gauge wiring in the wall that's in the path of a straight tee to the new drain location. Higher up the stud, the wiring is set back a bit more, allowing for a notch to be cut for the tee.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jun 27, 2013
  12. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,003
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    I would just turn the santee to the right and use a single trap arm with a 90 looking out.
    There is not need to drill over two lines.

    What you have drawn with the vent at the top is too low, and it's not even needed.
    You showing a line below and a line above when all you need to do is go straight for it.
  13. diydude

    diydude New Member

    Messages:
    62
    Location:
    Seattle,WA
    The vent wouldn't be quite that low, but it doesn't sound like it would still be high enough; I read something about flood rim level a few minutes ago. Ok, I'll have to figure out how to work around the electrical line. I was thinking about moving the supply shutoffs and drain to all fit inside the 8-inch wide vanity factory cutout, which would allow me to remove the blocking in the wall for the hot water stub that's next to the electrical line and also avoid cutting into a vanity panel. The cutout might be too narrow to fit everything, though.
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2013
  14. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,003
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    If you arm over, it's way below the electrical anyway.

    If you move over the entire plumbing, then you have to pass it on the way up.
    It's one santee, one medium 90 and two couplings and done!

    You can remove the existing blocking.
    And there is no rule as to where the water needs to be in the cabinet.
    I like to have them at least 4" apart so I can work with them. They could both be to one side or vertical.
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2013
  15. diydude

    diydude New Member

    Messages:
    62
    Location:
    Seattle,WA
    Ok, I'm going to be moving the drain later this week, but the pipe that the current drain tees off is right at the edge of the soleplate (about 1/4" from the edge). So, it appears that drilling a hole in the stud to the right is out of the question, since the hole needs to be 5/8"+ from the stud edge. Also, the coupling for the new 1 1/2" pipe tee will fall right on the wall stud when turned to the right to run the new line; if I notch the stud, I may violate code, as the coupling is 2 1/4" in diameter. Suggestions? Does this possibly require moving the whole vertical pipe to the new stud bay?

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 15, 2013
  16. diydude

    diydude New Member

    Messages:
    62
    Location:
    Seattle,WA
    Does this work? Are there any code issues about which I should be concerned? The city will be inspecting the completed work.

    (1) Two 60's to move the pipe over to the next stud bay from below.
    (2) Move the vent tee into the next stud bay.
    (3) Tee off the new vertical pipe to run a new drain. I'm not sure if the pipe from the tee to the 90 for the drain has to be a certain minimum length by code. I don't think so.
    (4) The two electrical lines will be moved. Their loads are in this same wall, so it SHOULD be a trivial move.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 18, 2013
  17. diydude

    diydude New Member

    Messages:
    62
    Location:
    Seattle,WA
    I asked the city about using a stud shoe if I were to tee off to the right on the existing pipe, since I'll be violating code if I notch the stud to accommodate the fitting. They were ok with it.
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2013
  18. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,003
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    Since I plumb in Seattle, I'm not surprised.

    My great grandfather lived in Seattle after he returned from the Alaska Gold Rush. The home he built is still on lower Queen Anne, somewhat close to the Seattle Center.
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2013
  19. diydude

    diydude New Member

    Messages:
    62
    Location:
    Seattle,WA
    I'm actually in Federal Way, but yeah, same story. When I asked about stud shoes at Home Depot and McLendon's, everyone said they'd never heard of them; one of the HD associates found it online, but they don't stock them. I found one at Lowe's, but it's spec'd up to 2" OD pipe. Do you know of a local supply house that might carry them? It seems like it shouldn't be this hard to find one that's the appropriate size. Here are the closest I could find to what I need:
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 18, 2013
  20. diydude

    diydude New Member

    Messages:
    62
    Location:
    Seattle,WA
    I FINALLY got around to moving the shutoffs and drain for the vanity:

    Drain and Shutoffs2.jpg

    Drain and Shutoffs1.jpg
Similar Threads: Vanity Drain
Forum Title Date
Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Help with 1 1/4 chromed lav sink/vanity drain set up May 18, 2014
Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & 1 sink to 2 in vanity 1.25" drain question. Feb 16, 2014
Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Double sink vanity drain issue Nov 7, 2013
Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Connecting Vanity drain to Unthreaded metallic drain pipe sticking out of the wall... Sep 15, 2013
Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Oyster looking stuff clogged a vanity drain Jan 1, 2013

Share This Page