Valve with degree marks.. What is it?

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog' started by 502_Jimmy, Mar 27, 2008.

  1. 502_Jimmy

    502_Jimmy New Member

    Messages:
    11
    My house, built in 2004 has a well, approximately 380' deep. I have what looks like a valve with degree marks on the top of it, before the pressure switch.

    What is this part called? Where can I find another? I searched but could not find anything directly realted to what it is.

    Any help is appreciated.

    Thank you.

    John
  2. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,383
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    A picture is worth a thousand words. Why do you need to replace it?
  3. 502_Jimmy

    502_Jimmy New Member

    Messages:
    11
    I'm having an issue with air in the lines. Only noticed in the toilets of the house. I have three bathrooms with two different toilet manufacturers, so its not just the toilet itself.

    I'm trying to learn by reading this forum, on how to solve the issue. I am trying to get a working knowledge of the parts of my system. I don't know it bad, just need to know what it does to determine if its bad... I lived in a house with a well for 26 years before moving to my new house. I replaced all the parts of it over the years and never had this valve in my application.

    I'm just curious as to what it does.

    I'll have to get a picture tonight.

    Thank you.

    John
  4. 502_Jimmy

    502_Jimmy New Member

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    11
    And let me clarify, when I say degree marks, I mean 0º, 10º, 20º, 30º. Not temperature degree marks.

    Rotates from one side to the other. 0º being in the middle.
  5. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,383
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    New one for me. Maybe someone else can help. Or I will be waiting for a picture. Probably not going to help with having too much air though. What kind of tank do you have?
  6. 502_Jimmy

    502_Jimmy New Member

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    11
    Its a 42 gallon galvanized tank with air bladder.
  7. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,383
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    Thats another new one for me. I don't know of any galv tanks that have bladders. Is there only one pipe going to the tank or are there two pipes going to the tank? If it is a galv tank, there should be two pipes and also be a fitting about half way up the tank. That would be your Air Volume Control and also your problem.
  8. 502_Jimmy

    502_Jimmy New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Well, I do believe it has two fittings, I'm likely wrong on the bladder part.

    Does this type of tank have an advantage or disadvantage to a bladder style tank? Which would be better?

    I'll take a look tonight. Thank you for your help with this. :)
  9. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,383
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    Maintaining the correct air charge has always been the major problem with galv tanks. You should have a check valve before the tank with a Schrader valve (like a car tire has). Then there is a bleeder orifice in the well and a Air Volume Control half way up the tank. All 4 of these things must work perfectly to maintain the correct air charge. Bladder tanks give less trouble because they do not have these 4 wearable components.

    You need a new AVC. Unscrew the old one from half way up the tank and you will see what I mean. I will bet the float that should be on the inside of the tank connected to the AVC has rusted off and fell in the tank.
  10. 502_Jimmy

    502_Jimmy New Member

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    11
    Thanks!

    I'll do a search on the procedure for changing this valve. Your help is much appreciated.
  11. 502_Jimmy

    502_Jimmy New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Also, can I change to a bladder style tank?

    This would seemingly alleviate the problems with this system..
  12. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,383
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    Yes you can switch to a bladder tank. The air charge system may need to be removed from down hole. You need to remove the check valve before the pressure tank anyway, and most times this will keep the bleeder down in the well from working. However, if the bleeder won't stay closed, it needed replacing anyway. Then you need to pull the pump up about 5' to get to the bleeder and just plug it off, as you don't need it with a bladder tank.
  13. Schrammdriller

    Schrammdriller Pumps and well contractor for 25 years

    Messages:
    11
    Location:
    Angels camp, California
    You probably do not need to lift the pump, the valve you have is likely a Well-mate Micronizer. This is a venturi type valve that admits air to a plain tank. It does not require a bleed down valve. There were some others made also.

    It is adjustable. You should be able to feel air being drawn in when the pump is moving more than 5GPM between about 10 and 60 psi.

    You must experiment with adjustments to obtain the correct amount of air admitted. Also you can bleed off the excess air with the air control valve mentioned earlier.
  14. 502_Jimmy

    502_Jimmy New Member

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    11
    That's what I have! Thank you!! :D

    http://www.wellmate.com/pdf/Micronizer.pdf

    Now, can I rid myself of that valve, and install a bladder style tank, without pulling up the well?

    Thank you to everyone for their help! :) :)
  15. speedbump

    speedbump Previous member

    Messages:
    4,540
    Location:
    Riverview, Fl.
    I would say since you have the Micronizer, you don't have an air maker in the well. Simply taking out your galvanized tank and the Micronizer, would allow you to add a Bladder Tank.

    bob...
  16. 502_Jimmy

    502_Jimmy New Member

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    11
    Thank you, Thank you!!

    I would have been lost without this forum. All the help and advice is sincerely appreciated!

    John
  17. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,383
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    Thank you Schrammdriller!!!! Hope you will continue helping out here!
  18. 502_Jimmy

    502_Jimmy New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Again, thank you for all the help.

    One last question though. I am going from a 42 gallon galvanized tank to a 44 gallon bladder tank that I am picking up today. Well-X-Trol brand. (I'm sorry I couldn't order from you guys, I am having lots of air the in lines issues, and want to get this fixed ASAP)

    From what I've read, I'll be picking up some extra capacity in the tank due to the differing design. Does this sound ok? It shouldn't pose any problems that I know of. Hopefully it will keep the pump from cycling as much. Correct?

    Thank you!!

    John
  19. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,383
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    You can switch to a bladder tank but, I would make sure you didn't have the old style galv tank and Micronizer for a reason. A lot of times these are installed because you have sulfur or something else in the water. Adding air to the system with a Micronizer may be what is keeping you from experiencing a rotten egg smell in your water. When you switch to a bladder tank, the water is never exposed to air. The air is what takes the smell out of the water in some cases. You might want to just replace the Air Volume Control and stay with the galv tank if this is the case.
  20. 502_Jimmy

    502_Jimmy New Member

    Messages:
    11
    I think I do have some sulfur in the water. Excellent point. I did not know that information. :eek:

    Is this ACV right on the front of the tank? The front of the tank has something with a schrader valve on it. Is this the ACV?

    To replace it, I drain the water, pull the valve, install new, and then how much air do I add?

    Thank you for the help.
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