Valve orientation + leakage problem

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MiamiCanes

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I'm installing the new plumbing for the sink and toilet in my bathroom (the old pipes were PB and had to be replaced). Among other things, I bought dark brass-colored valves that connect to 1/2" nipples screwed into Gatorbite fittings attached to the wall. The problem I'm having is that I need to get them to be secure at the point where the 3/8" fitting is facing upward, and they need to not leak. Right now, they're failing on both counts... their most secure position is nowhere near the point where they're pointing straight up, and they drip at the point where the valve screws onto the nipple regardless of orientation. We're not talking about lots of water... maybe a drop per minute apiece... but for obvious reasons, they can't be dripping at all.

So... what's the secret to making them drip-free, and being drip-free at the point where they're pointing in the right direction?

Also, how far should the nipple project beyond the finished wall surface for sinks, and for a toilet? I know there's probably a large range of distances that will "work", but what's the *correct* distance?
 

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Basement_Lurker

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ugh iron pip stubouts...I didn't think anybody used that anymore. You are stuck with whatever they end up being. If you want them to be perfectly aligned, you'll just have to keep tightening the fittings until they get where you want them and hope you don't break the fittings.

As far as how far the stubout should extend past the wall, you're dependent on what length nipple you have available to you. Normally a couple of inches is best. You don't want the valves right up against the finished surface, and you don't want them extended out too far.
 

Jadnashua

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First, if those nipples are truely iron pipe, throw them away and get some brass ones. Then keep in mind that you can often crank down on those pipe threads more than you think you can, so an extra turn round should be possible, especially with two of them. A sort of belt and suspenders solution that often helps is to use both pipe dope and the teflon tape.
 

MiamiCanes

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They're brass.

One thing I noticed -- they have no washers. Is there some particular reason why? It seems like they'd be a LOT less likely to lean if there were a washer to help seal the connection between the valve and nipple.
 

hj

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You "crank" them until they ARE pointing in the correct direction and are tight, even if it means an additional turn past where YOU THINK they are tight. I NEVER use the Teflon tape on anything other than plastic threads. For metal threads I always use a joint compound. Regardless of whether the valve leaks or not, NOW, you are going to have to remove it to install the wall material, so it will have to NOT LEAK after you put it back together after that. The nipple sticks out as far as you are comfortable looking at its appearance. All it HAS to stick out is far enough to install the trim flange and screw the valve on, usually about 1"+ outside the wall.
 

Jadnashua

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NPT is tapered, and is designed to get tighter as you turn it. It relies on that interference to keep it tight (like a wedge into a log), but needs something to fill in around the threads to keep it from leaking. Something like a hose bib has straight threads like on a screw and nut, and relies on compressing a washer at the end to make the water tight connection...the type of valve you have will not work with a washer, since you rarely bottom the thing out, and even if you did, it is not shaped to allow a washer to seal against. take it apart, put on some new teflon tape, and maybe put on an extra wrap, then crank it down until it is both tight and aligned the way you want. If the threads are not clean, it may take more teflon, or use both that and the pipe dope (put the dope on top of the tape).
 
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