Valve makes whistling or ringing sound

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jmoutray

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I just installed a Delta Universal rough-in valve body and valve for tub-only application. Delta calls for 8" minimum drop to elbow, only have room for about 4-5". Delta customer service said this minimum distance is necessary to prevent "shower-rise".... so, no shower, no problem, right?

Well, I hear a high-pitched ringing or whistling noise coming from the valve body. I have a cap on the top outlet of the valve body (for shower connection). If I remove the cap, the ringing sound stops.

From the "shower-rise" idea, I would figure water would be coming out the top, but actually it seems to be drawing air from the top. I feel slight suction when I use my thumb to cover it, and a second later, a loud ringing.

I had CPVC run down for the tub spout originally. Replaced with 1/2" iron pipe... made no difference.

If I remove the tub diverter, no whistling sound... but, obviously I need this.

If I remove the valve body cap on the top, no whistling sound... but, I'm bit leery about sealing up access to the valve without a cap. (And I've already tried obstructing the water coming out of the spout to see that water comes out here.)

Please help!!

Is this minimum distance to the tub spout necessary to prevent this ringing/whistling sound?

Thanks, Jason
 

NHmaster

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Nope, it's to keep water from climbing up the shower pipe. Drop the pressure in your house.
 

jmoutray

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Perhaps it's worthy to note that I transitioned copper to CPVC for the supply lines. See pic.
IMG_6289.JPG


Listening closer, I hear the ringing sound best when putting my ear on the CPVC supply inlets. See pic.
IMG_6288.JPG


Possible the CPVC, which is slightly smaller diameter than copper, is somehow resulting in the noise?

Any chance that replacing CPVC with copper will fix it?

Jason
 

Jadnashua

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While you can still get in there, tear out that iron pipe and replace with either copper or brass. After not too long, those pipes and fittings will start to rust - they are made of steel, even if coated with zinc, any imperfection and there will be at least one or many, will allow it to start rusting. Nothing worse than rusty water running into the tub.
 

Seaofnames

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While you can still get in there, tear out that iron pipe and replace with either copper or brass. After not too long, those pipes and fittings will start to rust - they are made of steel, even if coated with zinc, any imperfection and there will be at least one or many, will allow it to start rusting. Nothing worse than rusty water running into the tub.

Good point!

I'd never have potable water running through any kind of steel pipe or cpvc for that matter.

Sounds like you might have to get rid of the cpvc anyway and either relocate the valve assembly or switch over pipe to pex or copper.
 

Redwood

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High pressure can make nice screaming noises...:rolleyes:

NH Master speaks with great wisdom...

And yes get rid of the Galvanized...
 

jmoutray

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How do I drop the pressure? I just have the standard crank valve in the basement. I will find out what the static water pressure is coming into the house.

I can get the ringing to stop by partially closing the ball valves on the supply lines. It results in substantially less water out of the spout, however.

As installed, I measure the GPM as (56/5) (US fluid ounces per second) = 5.25 US gallons per minute. What is the acceptable range?

I'll get rid of the iron.

Thanks for the responses.

I'm trying to see if Delta will ship a new valve body, or may just buy one. I should be able to easily swap in another to see if that fixes the ringing.

Listen to it here......... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BH_cuLS2sJ0
(It may not seem very loud, but it quickly becomes very annoying, even in the living room, which is 3 feet from the valve through the wall.)
 

cougfan

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not over 80 psi is where the static pressure in the house should be, a pressure reducing valve is how to lower the pressure and lots of references to them on this forum.Listen to NHMaster grasshopper.
 

Gelo30

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how will you drop the house pressure if the problem still occuring? It also my problem by I just ignore it.
 

cougfan

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Turning the valves down will just restrict the flow and not cure the problem.High water pressure affects every fixture in the house so check the pressure if it's above 80 psi,install a PRV and and a thermal expansion tank on the water heater.:eek:
 

jmoutray

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Watts Pressure Test Gauge reports approx. 62 PSI--connected to 3/4" hose valve right off main water line.

Delta Faucet customer service wrote the following:

The whistle is coming from debris somewhere within the system. You will need to backflush the system in order to get rid of the whistle.

I will try this next.
 

jmoutray

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Back flushed tub and shower ports, no change.

Turned ball valve on cold water supply to about 1/3 open and ringing stops. (tub valve is pressure balanced so I only adjusted one supply line)

Flow rate reduced to (64/8) (US fluid ounces per second) = 3.75 US gallons per minute.

Thanks for the comments/suggestions.
 

jmoutray

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Well, I bought another of the same rough-in valve body (since Delta insisted the problem was due to improper installation...all they could say was that the tub drop was not to spec).

Noise has considerably lessened. Still hear slight noise occasionally, but noticeably quieter, and have been told it "sounds normal."

And just tonight, I only noticed it once, slightly, for a couple seconds during kids bath. I think I'm still a little biased because of the whole experience.

Just thought I'd put this out there in case anyone wants to buy my faulty-in-tub-only-application valve body. ;)

FYI, I put did put in copper for the tub spout, which didn't make any difference with the whistling noise.

Happy plumbing!
JM
 
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