Utility Sink hook-up

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by spuds, Mar 2, 2013.

  1. spuds

    spuds New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    New Hampshire
    Hi guys I need a little help on hooking up a utility sink to a main drain in my basement. I do not want to cut the cast drain and was looking to tie into the cleanout location. If some one could draw a diagram or edit my picture that would be great. I know how to plumb the sink and drain it to the cleanout spot but not sure where to put the Air admittance valve? Thanks for your time!
    IMG_0511.jpg IMG_0513.jpg IMG_0514.jpg
  2. spuds

    spuds New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    New Hampshire
    I was also wondering the old fitting use to have lead put in them is there something I could put on top of the lead? Like a silicone or something you guys are aware of to help seal it before I paint the drain. As you see it the pics the joints have something weeping out of them!
  3. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    27,255
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    YOU will NEVER find a 3 1/2" bushing to use in the cleanout opening, therefore cutting the cast iron may be your only option. Even if you did, HOW would you "restore" the cleanout opening for use when you need it. The "leakage" is oil from the oakum.
  4. spuds

    spuds New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    New Hampshire
    There is no way to attach to a cleanout plug? I dont care if I eliminate the clean out if its needed in the future I will just cut out the new plumbing and then attach it again.
  5. spuds

    spuds New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    New Hampshire
    So if I did cut the cast out is there a way to connect a Y into the cast drain coming out of the floor? If I cut above the cleanout now and put a rubber coupling and then a Y the drain is going to be to high!
  6. cacher_chick

    cacher_chick Test, Don't Guess!

    Messages:
    3,281
    Location:
    Land of Cheese
    The stack needs to be supported from above so that that it can be cut and a sanitary tee be installed where the clean out is. This will also allow the cleanout to be installed above the new sanitary tee. The cleanout and it accessibility is required by code.

    Depending on where the main line goes under the floor, it would also be possible to tie in there. Either way this is not a good job for someone with limited plumbing experience.
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2013
  7. spuds

    spuds New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    New Hampshire
    OPTION 2

    Forget that idea its going to be a pain in the ass! I will put the sink on the other end of the basement next to the laundry. In the pictures my washer is going into that piece of cast coming out of the floor. There is no vent at all with this washer. I believe this is the end of the line for the sewer pipe. So can someone give me a sketch or edit the pic to show how you would plumb this and I assume it will need an air addmtance valve. I will drain the washer into the utility sink if that is easier. I appreciate IMG_0515.jpg IMG_0516.jpg any help I would like to do this today.
  8. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

    Messages:
    7,396
    Location:
    Yakima WA
    Where to begin!!! Let's start at the top and work down. #1: A washer drain is not supposed to be an air tight, solid connection. That's why the washer drain hose has a crook in the end. It is intended to hook into the open end of the standpipe. #2: The standpipe should be 2", not 1-1/2". New machines require the larger pipe because they drain very quickly. #3: You do not have a P trap. What you have is an illegal S trap. #4: Related to #3, you have no vent. Fixing this mess really isn't going to be too difficult. Take out what you have down to the elbow coming out of the main drain. Turn the elbow so it is parallel to the wall. Put a 2" nipple into the elbow, then a 2" tee into that nipple. Continue with another 2" nipple and a 2" P trap. The vent comes out of the tee. Out of the P trap put another 2" elbow and finally a 2" standpipe. Not sure and a AAV is OK for a washer. Ideally, the vent should connect to an outside vent.
  9. spuds

    spuds New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    New Hampshire
    Gary thanks for the advice.

    This was here when I bought the home. If I turn that cast elbow to the left to follow the wall it won't be snug anymore. Also I am go going to put in a utility sink and then drain the washer into the sink.How does this look? IMG_0516.jpg
  10. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,416
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    That would work.

    You can also remove the 90 bend and replace with a 2" fitting if you want to upsize that section.
    The trap arm and vent can be 1.5"
  11. spuds

    spuds New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    New Hampshire
    I cannot get the 90 to move at all.
  12. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,416
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    Something like that, if there is about 1" of pipe below, you can cut and use a misson coupling on it.
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