utica boile at 35 psi ooh

Discussion in 'Boiler Forum' started by 4uzindian, Oct 2, 2013.

  1. 4uzindian

    4uzindian New Member

    Messages:
    58
    Location:
    trenton nj
    1989 boiler .tech replaced expansion tank and water inlet pressure valve (watts serial #1330 number 1156F -no model # is stamped on id plate.)when origanaly installed the tech said it's not to go over 20 psi. at cold it's shows 27 psi. when up and running it shows 37 psi.the pressure releif valve on boiler does not leak.the inlet pressure valve is not adjustable like the origanal bell and gosset valve.he said not to worry .am i ok ?
  2. Dana

    Dana In the trades

    Messages:
    3,029
    Location:
    01609
    Most boilers tolerate up to 50psi operating pressures, but it's ridiculous to run the thing at 27psi cold 37psi hot, unless the top radiator is 4-5 stories above the boiler. Many/most are shipped with 30psi pressure relief valves unless a higher pressure version is requested.

    Auto-fill valves cause as many problems as they solve, and a non-adjustable one is even worse. Shut off the fill-water to the boiler ahead of the auto-fill, and bleed the system down to where it's ~12psi when cold, then see where the operating pressure ends up. Odds are good it'll be sub-20psi, depending on the expansion tank, it's pre-charge, and the system volume.

    If the boiler has an embedded tankless coil for hot water or an indirect tank and there is a tiny leak between potable and heating side, that's a common cause for pressure-creep on the heating system. If the fill valve is hard-off and you bleed the system down to 12psi, keep an eye on it- you may have other issues to attend to.
  3. 4uzindian

    4uzindian New Member

    Messages:
    58
    Location:
    trenton nj
    thanks so much for fast answer . paragraph 2 . what valves do i use to bleed the system. the valve on the boiler or the two return line valves ? not experienced in this .
  4. Dana

    Dana In the trades

    Messages:
    3,029
    Location:
    01609
    Any valve that drains water from the system is sufficient for bleeding it down to pressure. Pick valve where you can watch the pressure guage as you drain the water. The total volume you'd need to drain won't be much in most systems, but have a bucket or two handy.
  5. 4uzindian

    4uzindian New Member

    Messages:
    58
    Location:
    trenton nj
    thanks again for quick answer.called the tech that put new parts in. he said the pressure -temp gauge on boiler is probaly not working right.because at that running pressure it would be leaking and steaming.he said not to worry.since i do not want to mess with draing water.i'm going to leave it like this for now.soon as gets cold here in trenton nj .i'll have it running .if somthing goes wrong i'll be posting again to your website for sure.so for now i'll be closing this post. thanks again for your advice.reply or not
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