Using a temperature control valve on a washer supply?

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by jgold47, Jan 17, 2014.

  1. jgold47

    jgold47 New Member

    Messages:
    27
    Location:
    Detroit, MI
    I've come to the annoying realization that my washing machine (relatively new Maytag) and I disagree over what a reasonable temperature for cold/warm/hot water is. after reading online, it certainly seems like a problem with the washing machine design, not a malfunction. The standard should be 30/40/50 deg c, but in practice I'm getting 60,75,85 deg F (you can do the conversion). I was kicking around the idea of adapting a shower valve and running the H/C through that valve and into the washing machine on the cold line, which is the only setting that is 'tap' temp, with no mixing. that way I've got full control over the temp all the way from tap hot to tap cold. I'd have to do some initial calibrations, but I should be able to easily identify where each temp stop would be.

    the only downside would be I would have to rinse on the same temperature, but I'm willing.



    Any thoughts?
  2. JerryR

    JerryR Member

    Messages:
    250
    Location:
    Florida

    30,40,50c converts to 86, 104, 122 dF

    So when washer is set to hot you're getting 85df which is cold standard? MOVE TO FLORIDA, where "cold" water is 85df.

    It sounds like you have 2 issues to solve. First is your cold water is too cold. The second is your hot water fill is not hot enough.

    The second issue be be that it takes a while for the hot water to get hot at the washer because of the distance from the water heater.
  3. jgold47

    jgold47 New Member

    Messages:
    27
    Location:
    Detroit, MI

    Welcome to Michigan....yes the cold water out of the tap is about 60 deg right now.

    Hot out of tap is about 125-130f

    tank is about 10 ft from washer on a pretty direct pipe run.

    on the washing machine

    cold = tap
    warm/hot = Automatic Temp Control

    the thing is pretty much designed to knock down the temp of the water. I'd played with it to no end, I've measured that the internal thermistor is working correctly, I've visualized the actions of the valves, I've disconnected the sensors to see if it had a dummy mode. I know that newer washers have more settings, one I saw had tap cold, cool, etc...However, I've read repeatedly people complaining that the ATC is too 'eco friendly'. That might be fine for most of the country, where like you said, tap water is above 60 deg, but up here, the cold tap is too cold (really needs to be well above 60 deg to wash anything effectively). I can wash everything on the warm setting, which at least covers the minimum for 'cold' per the labels, but the way the way the washer fills the warm, it alternates between the hot and cold valves at times, which means it dumps hot water on clothes then cold then hot then cold, till it hits the temp it wants, and that's problematic as well.

    If I mix before the washer, it will be appropriate temp coming in, and while I cant control the water mid-load, unless I manually turn it down, at least I know I've got the right setting...
  4. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,812
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    since "warm water" is a mix of the hot and cold, slightly close the hot faucet to limit the volume of hot water that is mixed with the cold. You will still have "hot water" , it will just take a little longer to fill the tub when you use it by itself.
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