Using a 1" reduction for 1,25 inch pump water outlet?

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Sprinkler

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Hi, I have an underground 25mm (1" external dia.) pipe running from the well to the house, and I'd like to connect a pump which has a 1,25" outlet. Is it possible to use a reduction adaptor ( 1,25" to 1") next to the pump? Or alternatively, I was thinking of installing the same diameter (1,25") pipe from the pump top the top of the well, and then install the reduction to 1". Would either of these solutions put a lot of extra work or wear out the pump? Thank you.
 

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Ok, great! So then no need to install the 1,25 tube for the length of the bore hole (to the pump)? So a reduction of 1,5" to 1" can be installed on the pump - but what do you mean by
[QUOTE=" a 1 1/4 X 1 bushing.[/QUOTE] Can I not just install a normal 1,25" to 1" reduction adaptor?
Actually the existing underground pipe is 1" exterior diameter - the interior diameter is about 2cm (0,787 inches).

Also can you recommend special rope to hang the pump? There are connector 2 rings on top of the pump, which is fairly heavy.
 

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I would never "glue" pipe in the well and I would never use a rope. Rope is just something that can cause a rats nest in the well if it breaks or comes lose and falls down the well. That rats nest can lock the pump in the well and cause you to lose the well. A lot of people get away with it, but I would never risk it. If the pipe isn't strong enough by itself, you need stronger pipe.

A threaded bushing is what I was talking about. But if the connection is not in the well you can use a glue in type bushing or "reduction adapter".
 

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I would never "glue" pipe in the well and I would never use a rope. Rope is just something that can cause a rats nest in the well if it breaks or comes lose and falls down the well. That rats nest can lock the pump in the well and cause you to lose the well. A lot of people get away with it, but I would never risk it. If the pipe isn't strong enough by itself, you need stronger pipe.

A threaded bushing is what I was talking about. But if the connection is not in the well you can use a glue in type bushing or "reduction adapter".
ok, how about 3mm stainless steele cable to hang the pump?
 

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The thing is I actually have a new pump which I have some doubts about installing as it's about 1m in length.
And it's really heavy - I'm a bit worried in case it could get stuck in the well. The pump that burnt out was less than a foot in length and lasted around 10 years or so. The new pump I have is this one - second in the table list in this link: http://www.bombashasa.com/imag/cat-general/340-4P-cg.pdf
 

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The thing is I actually have a new pump which I have some doubts about installing as it's about 1m in length.
And it's really heavy - I'm a bit worried in case it could get stuck in the well. The pump that burnt out was less than a foot in length and lasted around 10 years or so. The new pump I have is this one - second in the table list in this link: http://www.bombashasa.com/imag/cat-general/340-4P-cg.pdf
the pump in the abopve link is SM-3-22. Oh, so rope is ok? or not? I saw fairly serious looking nylon rope in the hardware shop today - suitable for nautical use etc, and a really heavy load bearer - though I'm not sure if there could be some nylon rope deterioration in well water?
 

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Thats what we use is Nylon, just look at what weight it can hold. Is this pump a 15gpm pump? Tape your safety rope the the drop pipe in the well every 20ft, then tie off the rope to the pitless adapter if you have one. Headed to a job, if they have a safety rope I will post a picture how to properly tie off your safety rope.
As far as I can work out from the chart on this page http://www.bombashasa.com/imag/cat-tecnico/340-4P-ct.pdf the water flow, per hour, at a depth of 131 feet (40m) is 634 US gallons (2400 Lts). This well is (60m) 196 feet deep.. What would be the ideal depth to install the pump? Would, say 50m be ok?
 

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ok, when you say check valve, it means a non-return valve, right? I notice different opinions about having the reduction at the pump, OR installing the 1,25" pipe to the top of the well, and maybe installing the 1.25 x 1" check valve at the top? In any case, with this pump, I can safely install it at around 20 feet from the bottom, right? Because some pumps do have a depth limit, of 180 feet or so.
 

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Check valve means non return valve, right? I notice different opinions about installing the 1,25" x 1" reduction at the pump OR running the 1,25" pipe to the top of the well, and installing the check valve reduction there? I gather that both options are ok (the extra length of 1,25 pipe to the top giving slightly more gallons per hour?). I never installled such a long (1m) and heavy pump before, so I'm slightly worried in case it got stuck down there, but I suppose it should be no problem? I think the well is 6" diameter and the pump 4". Actually, I see in this link http://www.bombashasa.com/imag/cat-general/340-4P-cg.pdf that "Retention valve built-in in all models", but I suppose it wouldn't be a bad idea to install an extra retention valve?
 
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Craigpump

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OMG

NEVER, EVER PUT A ROPE OR A STAINLESS CABLE IN A WELL. PERIOD

You wouldn't wear a belt AND suspenders too, would you?

The cable clamps rust and break then the cable is down the well. The rope gets poorly tied off, or it's the wrong rope or its wrapped around the casing and rots off and now it's down the well piled up on wire guides or torque arrestors.

I've spent a lifetime in this business and the only time I've seen a pump come off the pipe in a domestic installation is when steel pipe rotted through, poor quality pipe was used or when the job was done by an inexperienced DIYer who was in over his head to begin with.

During this lifetime I've made a few spears to get pumps out that were trapped by stainless cables and rope. Oh yeah, and I didn't do it for free either, in fact I charged a little more because it's a pita to do.

Do the job right the first time, use the best pipe you can get and you'll never have to worry about getting the pump out.
 

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Even knowing how to tie it off, I still think it is risky to put anything down a well that is not absolutely necessary. That is why I never use rope, cable, standoffs, or torque arrestors. Eliminate the cycling and you won't unscrew the pipe, chafe the wire, or need torque arrestors.
 

Craigpump

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I made this years ago after some "installer" put 600' of rope on a drop pipe. It's 1' bar stock with 1/4 barbs, the 2" used to slide like a hammer so it would penetrate the rats nest.

I got everything out and saved the well at great expense to the homeowner.
 

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Sprinkler

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That spear looks like a really excellent idea! Hopefully never needed! But are you saying that the best way to hold the pump up is just with the water pipe?
I always use just the usual black rigid plastic pipe. I wouldn't say it is strong enough to hold a heavy pump. So I use the rope - something like nylon. With the old pump, the water level in the well did fall (maybe by about 12 feet) every time the pump filled the attic tank. Then the well refilled within about 90 minutes. But looking at specifications of different pumps, some do mention depth limits from 7 M to 20m. Can I safely assume that the SM 3 22 pump (the 1m long pump) can be installed much deeper? even 50 meters? Thanks.
 
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About the electric cable to be submerged. Do you think that for this 1hp pump -(3m 3 22), a cable section of 14 AWG (about 2mm) would be ok for the 50 m underwater run? Thanks
 

Craigpump

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The pump isn't really that heavy, 30- 35 pounds?

Done correctly with the proper insert fittings 200 psi poly has some serious tensile strength. Years ago we tried to pull the brass insert fittings out of 1" 200 psi poly using our hoist truck, and a backhoe. The fittings bit in and did not slip, but the poly began to stretch under about 2500 pounds of line pull. I seriously doubt you're going to ever achieve that kind of pull by hand or with an up z dazy and if you ever have to put that much pull on poly, you're pump is trapped and a rope isn't going to get it back.
 

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I have never had cycle problems that has caused pipe to unscrew. Thats from freezing up & blowing the threads off the pipe & pump.

A Cycle Sensor can actually be set to the deadhead amps of the pump/motor. So if the pipe freezes the Cycle Sensor would shut the pump off before the pipe gets hot. It really can be set that sensitive, which is why I like the Cycle Sensor better than a Pumptec and also why it will work with a CSV when a Pumptec will not.
 

Sprinkler

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1" or 1 1/4" is fine. You will probably need a 1 1/4" coupling and a 1 1/4 X 1 bushing.
Actually, I should have said: 1 1/4" pump outlet to 3/4" reduction because the *interior diameter of the underground pipe is 3/4". Would that still be ok? I mean the pump at a depth of 50m and a 1 1/4" pipe to the surface and then the reduction to 3/4" pipe at the top of the well - for the underground run to the house. Sounds acceptable? Thanks
 
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