Upstairs Shower Drain Removal and Replacement

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PhilA

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I am trying to remove my existing tiled shower, and drain, so that I can install a new tile shower. I have everything removed except for the "drain" and membrane. There was tile over mud over a membrane. I am planning on replacing the mud pan with the Kerdi system pan and drain, and curb, and membrane. I can not tell how to take apart what is left to prepare for the new Kerdi drain. It looks like the piece shown in the attached picture should just turn, but it doesn't want to and I am not sure. Has part of this system been glued together? I have tried to break loose any sticking between the pvc and the rusted metal studs. Thanks for any help. I will have other questions about plumbing the shower valve and head. But I want to resolve this first.
 

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Jimbo

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Assuming you have loosened or removed the bolts...can't tell for sure in the pic....then it would turn, but it probably is sealed to the membrane with silicone caulk, or pbc cement.
 

Jadnashua

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The screws hold the clamping ring on, which is what seals the liner to the drain. As noted, they often put a bead of silicon on before clamping it together, so it is a real pain to remove. I'd consider just sawsalling it off. To install the Kerdi drain, you'd need to completely remove that drain. You may need to deal with the riser from the p-trap, as the Kerdi drain is likely deeper. Maybe, depending on the depth of the p-trap, just an internal pipe cutter at the proper depth, and then lift the whole thing out.

Are you going to mud the slope or use their pan? Have you checked out www.johnbridge.com? Lot's of info on Kerdi there.
 

PhilA

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Thanks for the help. With just the right lighting, I realized about the time you replied that those rusted odd shaped things were actually the heads of bolts. With a little encouraging, a file, and vise-grips, I managed to loosed three bolts and break the fourth. The ring came off easily and the liner lifted right out - no sealant. I do plan on using the Kerdi Shower Kit system. The question is, and you noted this, is do I need to remove what is left to put in the Kerdi drain. I have attached a photo to show what is left. The arrow shows where a joint appears to be, about 2" down. I assume this piece is attached (glued) to the pvc pipe below as it will not move. Does it look like I will need to cut this top piece out? Anyone used the Kerdi system that has a thought on this? Thanks.
 

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Jadnashua

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Yes, you do need to remove what remains of that drain. The new drain is designed (like any other) to glue to the riser pipe.

Depending on how far down the trap is (i.e., the length of the riser), you may be able to use an internal pipe cutter to remove the old trap, part of the riser, then install a coupling, short stub and the new drain.

If the riser is not long enough, then you need to get more destructive, and may need to open the ceiling or tear up the floor to cut back the trap. Note, it is possible to ream out the trap socket with a fairly inexpensive special bit. Then, you could forget the coupler and insert a new short section as a riser and the drain assembly.

Note - it is EXTREMELY important to get the top of the drain level; more so than with a more conventional one (but even then, it is very important as opposed to extremely important). Because of the diameter of the Kerdi drain, any error means your tile around that area might have a hump if it is not set level. There is usually enough play when gluing up a PVC joint to make it work out, but sometimes you need to weigh it down while the solvent evaporates. It is also important to get the drain at the proper height. If you are using their foam tray, you can take the center ring out and use that as your height gauge. If you are doing a mortar bed, over the plywood, you want it to be in the order of at least 3/4-1" thick under the flange of the drain. You might get buy with slightly less. To get the Kerdi drain to be bonded to the mortar bed, it helps to mix a little bit of lime into the deck mud (or maybe a little thinset) to make it stick there. You want that small section of mud to be a little wetter and able to be smushed into the grid openings of the drain's flange to ensure 100% coverage and stick.

Make sure to watch the video that comes in the box with the drain and follow up at www.johnbridge.com for some expert advice. I've installed a grand total of one, but have seen it done by the manufacturer's VP in a demo at a class, where I got a bunch of good practical experience and advice from experts.
 
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