Ultramax Install over poor flooringl installation...Pics

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by tesla, Oct 12, 2012.

  1. tesla

    tesla New Member

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    DFW (Garland), TX
    Ultramax II base is longer and narrower than the one it replaces. Fake wood was installed around the toilet so that the toilet sits on the concrete inside of the flooring. The front edge of the base is right on top of the edge of the wood floor and there are gaps on the sides. The back 2-3 inches of the base sits squarely on the wood. I need to fill this cavity up with something for aesthetics and stability of the toilet. I may replace the floor with ceramic tile as much of the wood around the toilet is water damaged. Any ideas?

    Also, will I need 2 wax rings or an extra large one for this since the flange is on the concrete? I have an extra large with horn.

    Toilet pictures are dry fit without wax.

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    Last edited: Oct 12, 2012
  2. dlarrivee

    dlarrivee New Member

    Messages:
    1,172
    Location:
    Canada
    Rip up the cheap fake wood and do it properly?
  3. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,052
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    Either get the larger base Soiree, or replace the flooring.

    Flooring is installed around the flange, not the bowl.
  4. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

    Messages:
    7,351
    Location:
    Yakima WA
    Laminate floors are not recommended for bathrooms. They do not tolerate water under them. If you decide to keep the laminate flooring, then it should not be too hard to find matching flooring that could fill in the void. If you do this, then caulk all the way around the toilet to prevent spilled water from getting under the toilet and then under the flooring. A wider based toilet as Terry suggests would also be a good option, and replacing the laminate with tile the best way to go albeit expensive. As far as the wax ring question, two rings probably would be needed. I would suggest using a plain ring (no horn.funnel) on the flange and a horned ring on top of that. You might also consider using a waxless seal instead.
  5. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,058
    Location:
    New England
    If you only want it to function, my suggestion would be to cut enough of the laminate out so that the entire toilet can sit on the concrete. You'd have the gaps, but you should be able to make it stable and leak-free until you decide to replace the flooring. You might find that some colored caulk could fill in enough of the gaps to the flooring to make it look okay for the interim.

    You could probably use a router in place to do this or possible one of those oscillating saws (like the Fein) to cut it. With the concrete underneath there, you might go through a few blades. If you used a router, you'd want to set the depth to just under the depth of the floor, then a utility knife should get through the rest. This would preserve the router bit although a carbide one might survive.
  6. tesla

    tesla New Member

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    DFW (Garland), TX
    I'll probably replace the flooring at some point but right now I need a functional toilet without a lot of cutting, etc. Seems I read somewhere that Terry or someone talked about removing toilets that had been mortared to the floor. What about that as a temporary fix until I get a new floor installed? Possibly some thinset or mortar with waxpaper on the floor and between the toilet for easy removal? I need it more for the front of the toilet where the base is on the edge of the wood flooring.
  7. dlarrivee

    dlarrivee New Member

    Messages:
    1,172
    Location:
    Canada
    Why create more work for nothing w/ mortar?

    Cut the flooring so your toilet sits properly DONE.
  8. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

    Messages:
    7,351
    Location:
    Yakima WA
    A sharp chisel work cut clean enough to allow the toilet to fit. You don't need to have a perfect fit, a little gap would fill in easily with caulk. I'd buy an inexpensive chisel and since you'll be hitting the concrete often, just sacrifice it on this job. May want a couple of them, one perhaps 1" and one 1/4" for the curves. If you have a bench grinder, you can touch up the edges a bit if necessary. I'd still recommend a new floor soon.
  9. tesla

    tesla New Member

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    DFW (Garland), TX
    I wound up using a hammer and screwdriver and pulled out enough wood for it to set on the concrete. Since we plan on replacing the floor anyway, I didn't need to do it carefully. However its ugly enough to put some kind of toilet skirt around it to cover up the big ugly gaps.

    By the way, the Ultramax II works flawlessly and looks very elegant. Wifey is going to love it.

    Thanks for everyones help.

    Barry
  10. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,052
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    When you do the new flooring, remember to pull the toilet, install the floor and reinstall the toilet.

    Then she will really be loving it!
  11. wjcandee

    wjcandee Wise One

    Messages:
    1,867
    Location:
    New York, NY
    Congratulations! I'm glad that you got it installed and that you're happy with it! I agree it is a most-elegant fixture.
  12. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

    Messages:
    7,351
    Location:
    Yakima WA
    Tesla, you took my cheap chisel suggestion to the 9th degree! Whatever works, and do keep Terry's comments about pulling the toilet when installing the new floor. You flange looks in great condition, but it will be below the finished floor so either a thicker wax ring, 2 wax rings, or extension rings will be need so the toilet will set properly.
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