Two inch well question

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog' started by pjsteel, May 21, 2012.

  1. pjsteel

    pjsteel New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    Georgia
    I have an old two inch well (galvanized casing) that I need to replace inner piping, foot valve, packer, jet, etc.

    I am at he point of pulling out the old piping. My question is: Is the casing adapter threaded to the casing or is it just seated to it? I am assuming that it is just seated but before I go to yankin' I thought that I would ask you guys. I remember replacing the pipes years ago with my dad but I can't remember how it is assembled exactly. My dad has since passed.

    Thanks,
    Phil from Georgia
  2. masterpumpman

    masterpumpman New Member

    Messages:
    729
    Location:
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Depending on the brand, it may be threaded but most likely it is sealed by 2 or 3 bolts.
  3. pjsteel

    pjsteel New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    Georgia
    Yes, it has 3 bolts with a rubber gasket(seal) in between.

    So I guess I can assume that it is not threaded.
  4. liam o k

    liam o k New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Location:
    indiana
    my situation is the same as phil's in georgia. i removed the three bolts and inserted eye-bolts with chains, and proceed to pull with a come-along. i eventually raised the pipe about an inch and a half, then it stopped. the 4x4's are groaning, i can't get another click on the come-along and i fear the cable snapping. do i need more muscle, or is there something i need to know?
  5. justwater

    justwater Well Drilling/Service

    Messages:
    327
    Location:
    FL/GA
    let off the tension a little and try to spin it with a wrench (clockwise only, as to tighten). if nothing still, tap it down a little.. spin it and try again. usually the leathers are hanging you up, so the more you wear them out, the easier it should be to come up.

    btw i'd advise pulling from the 1" threaded hole on top of well adapter. careful not to break those 3 bolt holes.
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2012
  6. liam o k

    liam o k New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Location:
    indiana
    after two hours of doing as you said (giving up twice) it worked!!! thanks, justwater. i quite easily pulled up thirty feet of pipe (water at eighteen feet) to find a clear venturi and a foot valve that seemed to work, though i can't be sure there wasn't debris in it before i messed with it. so i still don't know why the pump wasn't holding a prime. what else could it be.
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2012
  7. masterpumpman

    masterpumpman New Member

    Messages:
    729
    Location:
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Possibly a hole in the 2". In that case it means a new well!
  8. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
    4,057
    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
    Describe what you mean by not holding prime. Is the water running back to the well from the pressure tank or does the pressure hold but it sucks in air? With some plastic fittings you can have a suction leak that holds under pressure.
  9. liam o k

    liam o k New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Location:
    indiana
    originally the 12-year-old pump was found running continuously with no water. I hired the only well man around who would deal w/2inch; he said,"new pump" i said "ok." he said he poured a considerable amount of water into the prime hole of the new pump, and it all went away. he said "bad foot valve." i took him at his word and took over from there. is there a way to check for a hole in the rwo inch at this stage?
    all plumbing is galv. or copper.
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2012
  10. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
    4,057
    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
    Make sure the footvalve and leathers are good. Insert the packer about 10 feet and fill the casing up to the top with water. If it holds, the first 10 feet of casing is good. Lower the packer 10 feet and fill it again. If it holds, the first 20 feet of casing is good. Rinse, lather, repeat.
  11. liam o k

    liam o k New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Location:
    indiana
    looks like i have to make my purchase (of a new ejector assembly) to know if it's a worthwhile purchase.

    but, wouldn't i be compromising the leathers by forcing them down the casing AFTER they've seated (swelled or swollen)?
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2012
  12. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
    4,057
    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
    If your old leathers hold, use them for the test I described.
  13. masterpumpman

    masterpumpman New Member

    Messages:
    729
    Location:
    Virginia Beach, VA
    That's a lot of work just to locate where the hole in the 2" casing is, then have to drill a new well anyway. You could just install a shallow well injector on the end of your pump and then run a 1" or 3/4" PVC pipe not over 35 feet inside the 2" with a 3/4" foot valve on the end. It wouldn't produce a lot of water but other than some mud or sand coming in at the hole, it would eliminate the problem of a leak in the 2".
  14. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
    4,057
    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
    Purportedly the water is at 18 feet and the original packer was set at 30. The packer could be raised up above the hole and the same length of pipe moved to the footvalve end. If the packer is in good shape, then maybe new leathers is all it would need.
  15. liam o k

    liam o k New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Location:
    indiana
    LLigetfa, i like how you think. seems i've seen such a diagram, at the flint & walling website, i think.
    what's the trade-off with this configuration...why wouldn't we normally assemble it this way?
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2012
  16. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
    4,057
    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
    Not likely. If the casing terminates in sand, it is likely just a sandpoint. If it is set in bedrock and the bore continues, the rock itself is the screen.

    Your footvalve is your checkvalve.
  17. justwater

    justwater Well Drilling/Service

    Messages:
    327
    Location:
    FL/GA
    best way i've found to do it is set packer above hole, instead of a foot valve on bottom of jet assembly use a brass check valve, then male adapter with however much 1" pvc to get a hair past where the jet was set originally just to be safe... on the bottom of the pvc use 2 glued couplings squeezing a 3rd leather cup to seal off the bottom of pvc... bad spot blocked. no working on the well again though so start saving. i have seen bandaids like this last over 10 yrs.
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2012
  18. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
    4,057
    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
    Hey, I like your suggestion. The second leather below isolates the bad section of casing. Of course, sand can fill up the space between the packer jet and lower leather hence your warning that there will be "no working on the well again".
  19. justwater

    justwater Well Drilling/Service

    Messages:
    327
    Location:
    FL/GA
    correct. only way i know to fix it and not pull trash water from the hole. last resort patch.
  20. masterpumpman

    masterpumpman New Member

    Messages:
    729
    Location:
    Virginia Beach, VA
    LLigstfa's right!
    Even those that think that they know it all. . . don't always!
    I'd try LLigstfa's solution first.
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