Two Closet Flange Issues

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Geobrick

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[Let me know if this should be moved to the toilet section of the forum.]

I've read several posts about closet flange repairs but I need some help with these two situations.

Situation 1) The metal ring around this 4" ABS (or black PVC) flange has decayed (not shown in picture). I want to use a stainless steel ring but I'm not sure how to get this one by Sioux Chief at Home Depot around the lip of the flange. The one they sell that's made in two pieces to fit around lip is not stainless steel.
Here are some photos.

BB_Flange_1_IMG_2293.jpg BB_Flange_2_IMG_2294.jpg

Situation 2) In this case, it looks like the floor installers added an extension flange into the existing 4" ABS (or black PVC) flange. I assume it's glued in place. The problem is they didn't secure the metal ring to anything. The pictures here are what I found when I removed the existing toilet. The flange is a little higher than the floor, the ring is not secured and it's bit bent. Any recommendations on what to do here? Take a look at these pictures.

GH_Flange_1_IMG_2296.jpg GH_Flange_2_IMG_2295.jpg GH_Flange_3_IMG_2299.jpg

For the flange in situation 2, I'm installing a new Toto toilet with a unifit trap. In the case of the unifit, can I use it as is? It fits over the raised flange.
 
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hj

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#1, you have to find a stainless steel two piece flange, (as a matter of fact that is the ONLY kind I have ever seen). #2, the flange has be pushed down so it is no longer snapped into its groove on the riser. Pull it up until it reengages the groove.
 

Geobrick

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... as a matter of fact that is the ONLY kind I have ever seen.

Because you probably wisely avoid Home Depot. The item I saw at home depot said it was made of galvanized steel (not too bad). Apparently most plumbing supply places sell the same item made of Stainless Steel.

#2, the flange has be pushed down so it is no longer snapped into its groove on the riser. Pull it up until it reengages the groove.

I'll try to bend back into shape and snap it in. Hopefully the plastic that holds it hasn't been broken. So once it's snapped into place, it doesn't matter that it's not screwed to the floor? Then put a wax ring on it and install the UniFit over it and tighten the bolts (then secure the back part of the UniFit to the floor)?

I also considered the "Super Ring". Here's the HD link: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Superior-Tool-SuperRing-Closet-Replacement-Ring-21015/202538331
 
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Terry

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The flange should be secured, and the closet bolts need securing too. Whatever it takes to do that.
If you have a one-piece ring that fits in the slot, you may need to cut it, snap it in, and then screw it down.
We also use the flat ring over the flange too.
 

Geobrick

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Terry, I assume you're talking about situation #2.
I was able to snap the ring back into the ABS flange (but it's still bent a bit). It's going to be tough to secure the upper ring because the floor was cut around the outside of the original flange ring that's sitting on the slab about an inch below the top of the wood floor. There's nothing under it to secure it to except the ring below it and the slab under that. If I secure it to that,

The 4" ABS pipe is in the slab so it's pretty secure (doesn't budge). With the ring now properly snapped into the flange, can't I use closet bolts to attach the Unifit on top of the flange? The Unifit to flange seal will secure and back of the Unifit will also attach to the floor preventing any movement of the Unifit seals. I'll take a picture of a dry fit of what I'm proposing.

For situation #1, I used the galvanized "Mossbay" repair kit that I bought at HD on Sunday. Works well and fits into the groove on the ABS flange and sits on the floor the way it should (until I put tile in there one day). The problem I have now is I decided to try a green sani-seal but it doesn't seem to be compressing enough. There's a slight rocking no matter how much weight I put on it. I don't want to over tighten the bolts. If it won't compress with my weight sitting on it, tightening the bolts more is probably unwise. The good news is that even though it has a slight rock about the flange, it's sealed and didn't leak when I tried it a few times. I'm considering letting it sit awhile to see if it will compress a bit more under the existing force of the closet bolts (maybe go another 1/4 turn in an hour or two then seal the bowl in place to prevent the rock (but I don't like knowing it's compressed to its limit).
 
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Terry

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We use the flat repair ring with the outboard holes that normally can find something to catch on.
You can use the Sani-Seal if you feel you have a seal there. Nothing wrong with using wax though. If the flange is below the finished flooring, we stack two rings.
 

Geobrick

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Yes. I also bought one of those flat rings with the outboard holes. So in your opinion, it is better for the ring to be secured against the floor than to be attached to the top of the flange (knowing the pipe wont move)? I'll take a couple of pictures with the options I think I have and see what you and others think.

For situation 1, I emailed Sani Seal and they said that it compresses to a maximum of 1/4 inch high. I'll save it for another location and use wax here). Seems like it works well otherwise.
 
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Geobrick

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Here are some pictures that I took of what I'm considering doing. There are notes on the photos.

Super-Ring-IMG_2300.jpg Super-Ring-2-IMG_2301.jpg Super-Ring-3-IMG_2302.jpg Super-Ring-4-IMG_2303.jpg Super-Ring-5-IMG_2305.jpg
 

Geobrick

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I just thought of something else. If the ring against the slab is still good and secured, could I just use that ring to secure the closet bolts and ignore the top ring. The closet bolts would just pass through the top ring and the UniFit will be sealed to the extension flange. (see photos).

Ring-IMG_2309.jpg Seal-Drawing-IMG_2311.jpg Unifit-IMG_2312.jpg
 
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Geobrick

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I finished the installation above. I ended it up securing the lower ring to the slab using 4 hex head tapcon screws and used the lower ring for the closet bolts. I believe this will hold the UniFit to the upper flange and prevent any movement of the wax seal between the upper flange and the Unifit.

The UniFit is also secured at the back with four screws going into the wood floor. See attached photos.

Tapcon-1-IMG_2318.jpg Tapcon-2-IMG_2320.jpg Closet-Bolt-IMG_2323.jpg UniFit-IMG_2326.jpg

Here's the UniFit in place.
UniFit-In-Place-IMG_2328.jpg

See my thread under the toilets section to see the completed installation.
 
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