Twist and set closet flange & plastering a toilet

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by bird is da word, Apr 16, 2007.

  1. bird is da word

    bird is da word New Member

    Messages:
    8
    I am having a new toilet installed. The existing waste line has a lead riser to a brass closet flange. The flared lead riser has detached from the brass flange and split radially in the area that contacts the flange. I am looking at having the riser cut flush with the floor and installing a 3" twist and set flange. The throat opening is only 2" diameter. My questions are as follows.

    1. What are peoples experience with these twist and set style flanges? Are they reliable solutions for a long term installation?

    2. Should I expect the 2" throat diameter to clog frequently?


    The floor elevation will require the toilet to be shimmed. I had mentioned to the handyman doing the install that plastering the toilet may be a better option than shimming. This is to avoid a heavy caulk bead around the toilet. What is the proper method for plastering a toilet? A brief order of the installation sequence is all I really need to know. BTW...what is the overall feeling about this method.

    Thanks in advance.
    BIDW
  2. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,332
    Location:
    New England
    I don't think you'll get a good seal with the lead riser. It could probably be repaired, but you'd be better off tearing it out and replacing it back to the nearest (probably) cast iron fitting if you have access to it from underneath. I think you'll have problems. If I understand the twist and set fittings (and I may not), it basically wedges itself in the pipe. This might be okay with cast iron, but the lead is soft. Isn't going to be able to compress properly, it will just bend or flare it out.

    Many of the newer toilet use a larger trapway than the opening of those, too. It is never good to have a restriction in a line, and an inspector may not allow it.

    Grout might be stronger than plaster underneath the edges. Leave those thoughts to a pro, as I don't know. Gypsum based verses cement based - cement based is stronger. Now, do you need it, not sure.
  3. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

    Messages:
    7,397
    Location:
    Yakima WA
    We frequently hear the tales of woe brought about by using "handymen" to do what a professional should be hired to do. In fact, many places do not allow these non licensed (in plumbing) to do plumbing work. You are starting down a path that, if not done right, could end up causing you much misery and cost you twice what a qualified plumber would in the first place. I'm an avid DIYer, but even I know that there are somethings better left to the professionals.
  4. TedL

    TedL New Member

    Messages:
    604
    Location:
    NY Capital District
    How far down does the lead riser extend, and what does it go into? If not too deep, you may have a hub that an extra long flange could slip right into, after removing the lead riser.
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