TT Prestige Solo 110 Igniter problem SOLVED

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GT3D

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There are many types of ignition problems but I discovered the solution to this particular igniter problem when troubleshooting a growling or horn like noise coming from the Prestige 110 boiler. The solution to the noise is posted as a separate thread titled: TT Prestige Solo 110 Growling/Horn noise SOLVED.

All of the following should be done with the power to the boiler OFF, the gas OFF and as much ventilation around you as possible.

After researching and reading about the noise problems, I was sure my problem was the igniter as the boiler would not fire and gave an E-02 error. I removed the igniter, checked the gap (1/8"), and cleaned it thoroughly. I slid it back into place and again no ignition. Pulled it again … and again … and again.

The problem was this. The L shaped leg of the igniter is connected to the ignition cable cap. Obviously to clean it and adjust the igniter gap, one has to to completely remove the igniter assembly, which I did. However, I didn't remove the ignition cable cap from its connection to the igniter leg. This cap to igniter connection appears much the same type connection as a spark plug with its cable.

Again, the boiler power and gas is OFF. Each time I did this cleaning, adjusting and readjusting and before returning it I dry fired it outside the boiler to make sure a spark was working. I tested for spark by turning on the boiler (but no GAS) and starting the ignition sequence. At first the boiler will be flashing an E-02 error code. Press the Reset button and it will begin the ignition process and then try 5 times to light. In my case I got a good spark. I then turned off the boiler. I reinstalled the igniter. Turned on gas, waited 5 minutes, powerer up boiler, pressed RESET and it would not fire.

Apparently, in the process of numerous removals the ignitor leg had separated from it's ceramic surround. There is a sight glass that allows you to see if the burner is lit BUT it doesn't allow you to see if the ignitor is sparking. Once I got my "dry fire" spark to go and re-inserted it my natural tendency was to push down on the ignition cable cap while I screwed the flange down. Since the leg had separated away from the ceramic casing, pushing the cap down just increased the gap and possibly turn the ignitor leg away from the inside ignitor leg.

To temporally repair this, I used super glue to weld it back together. The ignitor leg has two little flanges which seat into the ceramic. Slowly turning the leg against the ceramic will allow you to find the exact spot the flanges seat. The igniter should look like the drawing attached.

Once reinstalled, then repeat gas on, wait 5 minutes, power up boiler, pressed RESET and when it reaches Stage 2, it should fire.

The repair kits for this is: PSRKIT14 (ignition cable) and PSRKIT14 (Igniter with gasket). The ignition cable probably is fine but why take a chance. I kept the repaired one for an emergency back up.

In the future, I hope each time the igniter is pulled it stays intact. So I will definitely remove the new one with extreme caution.
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