Trying to connect drain tailpipe to the trap in a bathroom sink.

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by slinky, May 18, 2011.

  1. slinky

    slinky New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    Long Island, NY
    I had to replace the pop up sink stopper in the bathroom, the tailpipe
    is rusted and needs to be replaced as well, the trap looks ok, don't want to
    try to remove as I am afraid of damaging the pipes, trying to fit a pipe wrench
    in there isn't easy.

    Photo #1 is the part that I need to replace,(1 inch in diameter).
    It is rusted and leaking.

    I went twice to the hardware store and both were too big(1 3/8) (1 1/4).
    Even with an extra gasket it wasn't a straight fit. They told me that is the smallest
    size that they have(1 1/4) for the tail piece.

    I already installed the new pop up under the sink as well as a small extension pipe underneath. How do I go about finishing this? Thanks in advance.


    slinky_lav1.jpg

    slinky_lav2.jpg
    Last edited by a moderator: May 18, 2011
  2. SacCity

    SacCity In the Trades

    Messages:
    189
    Location:
    Sacramento, CA
    1 inch is an odd size. Are you sure about that?
    Normal is 1-1/4 down from the bathroom sink, and then 1-1/2" into the wall.

    I would recomend removing the existing P-Trap and and putting a 45 degree elbow near the wall so that the new p-trap would line up under the sink.
    Michael
    Sac City Plumbing
  3. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    27,237
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    The trap appears to be 1 1/2" and the drain's tailpiece WILL BE 1 1/4" O.D. We cannot tell you exactly HOW to get from one to the other because it depends on the various measurements. That "offset" is NOT the ideal way to do it because it is somewhat "fragile" and come apart or displace easily if it gets bumped or pushed.
  4. slinky

    slinky New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    Long Island, NY
    You are right, it was 1 1/4. I removed the chrome trap, cleaned it, put a rag where the pipe sticks out of the wall, it looks clogged up, not sure if I have to clean that also.
    I will take the old trap to the hardware store tomorrow, can I work with PVC now? first install the elbow, then the new trap to the bottom stem of the pop up. I have a Durst A236C
    chrome plated brass pop up. I rather not have to cut anything if possible.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  5. slinky

    slinky New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    Long Island, NY
    By offset you mean that piece that is under the pop up drain, it is hand tightened. I understand what you are saying about it getting easily displaced. At least now I know the
    right measurements and I have no choice but to replace the pop up drain(which I did already) and tailpiece which were both rusted and add a new P trap as well. If I run into
    problems I will have to call a plumber. All I can do is try my best being the simpleton that I am.
  6. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    27,237
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    i could connect it for my minimum charge, I do NOT know how long it will take you, or how many trips to the hardware store for parts.
  7. slinky

    slinky New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    Long Island, NY
    Sighs, I will be going back to the hardware store tomorrow. Reinstalled the same P trap and they advised me to buy a plastic 1-1/4 flexible slip joint
    extension, 8 inch length is a tad bit too short, need a "10" or a "12". It's a lot easier when it's not misaligned. I am going to replace both shut off valves
    from the supply lines as they leaked a little when I was turning them off and on.

    I do have a pack of new sponges as well as a mop and bucket just in case. To be continued..
  8. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,412
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    I would pick up a trap that swivels and a 45 and move the p-trap over to the drain, and use a solid tailpiece.
    The accordion plastic piping is hack.
    Last edited: May 19, 2011
  9. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    27,237
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    "Flexible" tailpieces are NOT an approved method. They may be the most UNSANITARY item you can use, and should never have been allowed to be produced in the first place.
    Last edited: May 21, 2011
  10. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

    Messages:
    7,395
    Location:
    Yakima WA
    Maybe you should go to the auto parts store and get a radiator hose and some hose clamps. Whatever you do, do not call a plumber.
  11. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    27,237
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    Gary, I hope you had your fingers and legs firmly crossed with your tongue planted firmly in your cheek when you wrote that advice. I also hope you realize that there are probably SOME people who would do just that and say, "But Gary said it was okay to do it".
  12. slinky

    slinky New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    Long Island, NY
    Thanks Terry, that makes sense. Going to look for and buy the parts tomorrow. 1 45 elbow, 1 PVC P-trap. The bottom of the pop up drain piece is too short to reach the P-Trap, so
    I will use a chrome extension tailpiece. The issue isn't just the misalignment but the height difference as well. I returned that flexible tailpiece that they sold me a few days ago.
    Thanks for the slinky avatar!

    [​IMG] it's still going to be short after the swivel p trap is installed, maybe the elbow will help.


    [​IMG] pop up drain installed hand tight only with plumbers putty on top.

    [​IMG] this is the tailpiece extension which should be longer.

    [​IMG] this one didn't fit the "1" inch hole on top of the sink.
    Last edited: May 22, 2011
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