Tricks to replacing tub overflow?

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Shelbycobra427

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Hi Everyone,
I've lurked for a while on these forums and gained a great amount of help for my DIY plumbing projects. I'm currently working on a bathroom remodel where I'm saving the existing tub. I wanted to pull the old tub drain before the tub is reglazed and feel reasonably confident I can do that.

My question is in regards to installing the new drain. As I understand it, to install the new drain, I need to:

-Clean surfaces
-install rubber gasket between tub shoe and bottom of tub
-apply ring of plumber's putty under the new drain assembly and screw it in with tub drain tool/wrench

Is there anything I'm missing or tricks that will help? It's a second story bath with the drain right above my kitchen ceiling, so I'm really trying to avoid anything that might cause a leak. I replaced a lav drain & p-trap last year and couldn't figure out why it kept leaking....then I found a thread on here stating that I needed to putty/dope the threads on the tailpiece. Nothing in the installation instructions said this and I always thought that you should put any dope on any threads other than tapered pipe threads. After taking it apart, applying some dope, and reassembling, I've had no further issues. I just want to make sure that I don't run into a similar issue doing this tub drain.

Thanks.
 

Terry

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You you install a new ABS or PVC tub drain that is glued, you should be fine. It's the slip joints that can cause issues later.
I like to install the rubber washer under the tub, clean.
The tub shoe can get putty, but none on the threads.

The Lav pop-up assembly gets putty or dope on the straight threads where the lower rubber washer is postioned to prevent water from rolling down those threads.
Yes, not on any instructions, and plenty of plumbers have been angry with me for mentioning this little secret here.
 

Shelbycobra427

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You you install a new ABS or PVC tub drain that is glued, you should be fine. It's the slip joints that can cause issues later.
I like to install the rubber washer under the tub, clean.
The tub shoe can get putty, but none on the threads.

The Lav pop-up assembly gets putty or dope on the straight threads where the lower rubber washer is postioned to prevent water from rolling down those threads.
Yes, not on any instructions, and plenty of plumbers have been angry with me for mentioning this little secret here.

Thanks, Terry. I'm trying to save the existing (brass slip-joint) drain & overflow assembly and just replace the stopper portion of the drain. I can take the existing one out if I really have to, but the trap is really close to the 1st floor ceiling and I don't have a very large opening to work in. I'd prefer not to have to mess with the waste and overflow tube if I don't have to. I really just wanted a cosmetic change on the drain & overflow trim and to get rid of the cable-operated pop-up as I really hate those things.

Oh, and I really appreciate that info on doping the lav pop up assembly threads. I was getting pretty frustrated and I ended up finding one of your old posts. Really made my day!


Edit: Added picture of existing waste & overflow drain from the only access I have (closet sharing a wall with the drain-side of the tub).
 

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