Transfer switch conduit in framing

Discussion in 'Electrical Forum discussion & Blog' started by beekerc, Nov 17, 2008.

  1. beekerc

    beekerc IT Consultant / Network Engineer

    Messages:
    94
    Location:
    Seattle
    i'd particularly like any washington state inspectors to weigh in on this topic. we'll ignore the fact that i've had 3 different inspectors (from city of seattle and state of washington) out and I neglected to ask any of them.

    here's the deal. the big gray flexible conduit/pipe holds the bundle of wires from the transfer switch (tan box on the right) that connect to the circuits in th main panel (gray box on the left) that i want serviced by the generator. Now when the transfer switch was originally installed, i had asked the installer about whether or not the gray pipe could be passed through the stud so it could be hidden by sheetrock, like so many other wires and conduits. this installer, a very customer unfriendly electrician, would only very curtly say that "that can't be done" with no further explanation - forget trying to get him to cite a code reference.

    what i'd like to know is, can this interconnect between the main panel and the transfer switch be placed into the framing and covered by sheetrock? the picture should clearly show that the connection that goes into the main panel is behind the wall line and between the studs, so i can't understand why the connection that comes out of the transfer switch (and the pipe for that matter) must be exposed.

    I welcome all opinions, but a city of seattle or state of washington inspector that can cite a code reference that would allow or disallow placing this gray pipe behind the sheet rock would be very much appreciated.

    Thanks
    BeekerC

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    PS. I passed my rough-in inspection - if i hadn't mentioned it in an earlier post, I'm remodelling my basement and doing the wiring myself. the only things that needed correction were the need for an outlet in the new hallway (i thought i was okay because there were outlets right around the corner from doors entering into the hall) and a couple of boxes that were servicing different circuits where i didn't have all the grounds tied together, across the circuits (should have figured this one out since ground is ground, but for some reason i kept the circuits really separated). so far, i've burned through about 1,100 feet of 12-2&3 and 14-2&3 wire. i feel a great sense of accomplishment on my wiring, but i gotta say, i really hate pulling 12-gauge wire.

    Again thanks to all for the very useful advice an opinions.
  2. jwelectric

    jwelectric Electrical Contractor/Instructor

    Messages:
    2,562
    Location:
    North Carolina
    Can't be done :)

    350.42 Couplings and Connectors.
    Angle connectors shall not be used for concealed raceway installations.
  3. jar546

    jar546 In the Trades

    Messages:
    432
    Location:
    USA
    In addition to NEC 350.42, there is an issue with the percentage of the stud that is removed to make this possible. What needs to be done to remedy this depends on the size of the stud and if it is a bearing wall or not.

    You are now into building code issues too.

    See Notching and Drilling in your building code.
  4. beekerc

    beekerc IT Consultant / Network Engineer

    Messages:
    94
    Location:
    Seattle
    so if i it were straight into the bottom of the box, like on the main panel side, it would be okay?
  5. beekerc

    beekerc IT Consultant / Network Engineer

    Messages:
    94
    Location:
    Seattle
    what you're looking at is a 2x4 framing that sits in front of the existing 2x4 framing of the house. this additional 2x4 because the foundation of the house is 6" wide and rather than just furring (sp?) the studs out just enough, the builder said it would be more cost effective just to put another full 2x4 frame in front and fur out the concrete base. the only load it will bear is the sheetrock.
  6. jwelectric

    jwelectric Electrical Contractor/Instructor

    Messages:
    2,562
    Location:
    North Carolina
    The transfer switch is not listed as a flush mount and must be mounted exposed.
  7. beekerc

    beekerc IT Consultant / Network Engineer

    Messages:
    94
    Location:
    Seattle
    ah, that makes sense.
    can you tell me where it is you looked to determine that it's "not listed"?
    just so i have a reference?
    Thanks
    BeekerC
  8. brownizs

    brownizs In the Trades

    Messages:
    196
    Location:
    Springfield, IL
  9. Chris75

    Chris75 Electrician

    Messages:
    608
    Location:
    Litchfield, CT
    [​IMG]


    At least they taped the wirenuts. :D
  10. beekerc

    beekerc IT Consultant / Network Engineer

    Messages:
    94
    Location:
    Seattle
    wirenuts

  11. jwelectric

    jwelectric Electrical Contractor/Instructor

    Messages:
    2,562
    Location:
    North Carolina

    It should be in the installation instructions and can also be found in the UL Whitebook.

    Looking at the panel itself one can see how the cover attaches

    [​IMG]

    The cover wraps around the enclosure instead of sitting flat against the wall as the main panel cover does.

    [​IMG]

    This is the give away that I can see and tells me that the transfer switch must be surface mounted
  12. beekerc

    beekerc IT Consultant / Network Engineer

    Messages:
    94
    Location:
    Seattle
    conduit framing

    this makes sense.
    Thanks
    B
  13. leejosepho

    leejosepho DIY scratch-pad engineer

    However, some panels can be purchased with a flush-mount cover as an alternative. That might or might not be the case here, but it might be worth checking to see.
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