Toto Ultramax II model numbers do not match

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LisaLu99

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We just installed the Toto Ultramax II 1.28 gpf toilet. I ordered model # MS604114cefg#01 and the box also has this same model number.

Inside the tank lid the model is marked as # CST604CEFGT. Does anyone know if this is the same toilet that I ordered? I was expecting a more powerful flush than it has and found some reviews online saying the toilets inside some Toto boxes are not what is marked on the box (people ordering Ultramaxs and getting Ultimas).

Any input? I was very leery of the 1.28 gpf toilet and will be especially wary if I didn't even get what I ordered. Thank you in advance.
 

Reach4

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We just installed the Toto Ultramax II 1.28 gpf toilet. I ordered model # MS604114cefg#01 and the box also has this same model number.

Inside the tank lid the model is marked as # CST604CEFGT. Does anyone know if this is the same toilet that I ordered? I was expecting a more powerful flush than it has and found some reviews online saying the toilets inside some Toto boxes are not what is marked on the box (people ordering Ultramaxs and getting Ultimas).

Any input? I was very leery of the 1.28 gpf toilet and will be especially wary if I didn't even get what I ordered. Thank you in advance.
What do you have, a two-piece or a one-piece?
 
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Terry

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It's the new model with the Tower flush valve.
They sell that one as a MS604114CEFG

CST604CEFG (T) for the toilet
114 for the seat.

toto-tower-1.jpg
 

SteveW

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Terry,
What's up with the tower flush valve? Do you see this as a future problem (like in some other brands)?

One of Toto's many selling points is (or was?) that they use off-the-shelf fill and flush valves so you don't get a nasty surprise down the road when they need replaced.
 

Terry

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One of Toto's many selling points is (or was?) that they use off-the-shelf fill and flush valves so you don't get a nasty surprise down the road when they need replaced.

It looks like one more part to carry now, and the home centers will also need to get up to speed on it.
I was having troubles with one of the Korky replacement flappers on some one-piece TOTO flushvalves. Lately I've been using the Fluidmaster 3" flapper on them. Now I will be adding the Tower seal to the vans.
 

SteveW

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QUOTE "Now I will be adding the Tower seal to the vans.
[/QUOTE]

Just like Rosanna Rosannadana used to say, "It's always somethin'!"
 

w1art

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BUMP! (Hope this is OK...)
This same situation surprised me! My v.07 version spec sheet clearly states 1.28GPF and so doesn't the sticker on the side of my Ultramax 2 box. But when I opened the box and checked the model information stamped on the tank it clearly states 1.0GPF. So how can I tell what the actual GPF is for the toilet I have. Like LisaLu, I read reviews on the 1.28 which look good overall, but the 1.0 isn't what I expected or bargained for, nor wanted.
Maybe someone can tell me what is the critical design criteria which actually controls the GPF. I have no idea. I am wondering if it is the tank parameters, the fill valve parameters (maybe second order), or the flapper / tower (in this case)? The reason why I ask is I would like to know if there is a way to change the GPF. Maybe it can be tweaked. I would hate to have to send back the two Ultramax 2s I just bought. I will try to include the pics below...

box.jpg


tank.jpg
 

Terry

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The porcelain is the same in both the 1.0 and the 1.28
It's the flush valve that is the difference.

ms604114cufg-12.jpg


The 1.0 gallon flush

toto-tower-1.jpg


The 1.28 gallon flush tower.

Either way, you can hold the handle and get even more water for the flush.
 
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Duane Morse

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BUMP! (Hope this is OK...)
This same situation surprised me! My v.07 version spec sheet clearly states 1.28GPF and so doesn't the sticker on the side of my Ultramax 2 box. But when I opened the box and checked the model information stamped on the tank it clearly states 1.0GPF. So how can I tell what the actual GPF is for the toilet I have. Like LisaLu, I read reviews on the 1.28 which look good overall, but the 1.0 isn't what I expected or bargained for, nor wanted.
Maybe someone can tell me what is the critical design criteria which actually controls the GPF. I have no idea. I am wondering if it is the tank parameters, the fill valve parameters (maybe second order), or the flapper / tower (in this case)? The reason why I ask is I would like to know if there is a way to change the GPF. Maybe it can be tweaked. I would hate to have to send back the two Ultramax 2s I just bought. I will try to include the pics below...

View attachment 39571

View attachment 39573
I have the same situation with the box as MS604114CEF(G), the stamp inside and actual flush tower. Mine says CST604CEFGT 1.0 gal flush inside the tank, but it has the 1.28 gal flush tower, which is what I ordered. The real problem is that there is a problem with the water draining out from the tank, it won't stay up and keeps trying to fill, with water coming in every few seconds.
 

WJcandee

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The point is that the bowl can flush on one gallon per flush, but the toilet, as Terry explains above, is using 1.28gpf. So there is no "issue".

If the fill valve is constantly turning on, then the flush valve is probably not sealing properly. Or the fill valve is defective (much less likely). Shoot us a short video of what it's doing, and we can advise.
 

Duane Morse

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The point is that the bowl can flush on one gallon per flush, but the toilet, as Terry explains above, is using 1.28gpf. So there is no "issue".

If the fill valve is constantly turning on, then the flush valve is probably not sealing properly. Or the fill valve is defective (much less likely). Shoot us a short video of what it's doing, and we can advise.


The flush valve is not sealing properly, or the water would stay in the tank. So not the fill valve. This is brand new right out of the box yesterday. The issue is not about how much the tank holds as it is the same size fixture using different components to achieve the 1 gpf or 1.28 gpf.
The issue is sending fixtures with different numbers than ordered and a fill valve that doesn't match the gpf stamped on the inside.
Makes it a little tougher getting the correct parts and confusing as to what you do actually have.
Like a car that says 327 on the fender, but really has a 350 under the hood.
 

Terry

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toto-tower-1.jpg


If it looks like this, it's 1.28
The part that pulls up and then drops down will rotate out, counter clockwise.
I would do that, and check to see if the seal is clean.

flush-tower-1.jpg


Rotated out and looking at the underside of the tower.
 
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Duane Morse

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toto-tower-1.jpg


If it looks like this, it's 1.28
The part that pulls up and then drops down will rotate out, counter clockwise.
I would do that, and check to see if the seal is clean.
Thanks Terry, I'll check it out. Never had any other toilets that didn't work right out of the box.
 
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Duane Morse

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Thanks Terry, I'll check it out. Never had any other toilets that didn't work right out of the box.
The leak is actually from the flush valve body where the plastic bottom meets the porcelain. Is there supposed to be a seal on that where it clamps to the tank? I let it fill only about 1" and shut off the water with the part rotated out, and could see water running down the back side of the hole in the tank. If that's how they make them all, it's a bad design. Also not enough lip under the hole in the tank to set all 3 of the black clamps properly.
 

Terry

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There is a seal under the flush valve.
If you loosen the clamps and remove the flush valve, check the porcelain for smoothness before reinstalling. Sometimes a speck of clay can lift the seal.
Bad design? I've installed thousands of them. It's rare to have that issue, but it can happen. Very rare though.

ms604-flush-valves.jpg


ms604-drain-valve-2.jpg
 
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Duane Morse

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The leak is actually from the flush valve body where the plastic bottom meets the porcelain. Is there supposed to be a seal on that where it clamps to the tank? I let it fill only about 1" and shut off the water with the part rotated out, and could see water running down the back side of the hole in the tank. If that's how they make them all, it's a bad design. Also not enough lip under the hole in the tank to set all 3 of the black clamps properly.
There is supposed to be a seal at the base of the flush tower, it came from the supplier/factory without one.
 

Duane Morse

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There is supposed to be a seal at the base of the flush tower, it came from the supplier/factory without one.
I have a new part coming, but everyone says this is a new system, only out for 6 months to a year, that's why you can't see a part number or just buy a new seal. I got the whole valve-tower-assembly all together.
 

SWAF

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I have a new part coming, but everyone says this is a new system, only out for 6 months to a year, that's why you can't see a part number or just buy a new seal. I got the whole valve-tower-assembly all together.
Duane, I have the exact same problem. Mine is a One piece 1.28gf. Continuous leaking from the tower part. It sounds like it cycles every 90 seconds or so for about 20+ seconds. The plumber doesn't deal with Toto...go figure. He installed them ini this house when we built and he didn't like them. I've had Toto in my my other house for over 15 years and didn't have any problems for about 5 years of use for five commodes. Now, it's been less than two years in this house: five commodes UltraMax 1.28, Where did you get your parts? I have a photo of the list of parts but cannot find the "green" tower anywhere with the exact same parts number. Thank you.
 

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Reach4

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Mine is a One piece 1.28gf. Continuous leaking from the tower part. It sounds like it cycles every 90 seconds or so for about 20+ seconds.
If you close the stop valve at the wall, how far down does the water level fall?

Possible answers are the bottom of the tank, somewhere a bit up the tower, or about 7/8 inch below the overflow tube.
 
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